Fouling plugs

[Cosmobiker]

Just bought a 1980 gl1100. Previous owner gave up and sold it. Carbs are supposed to be rebuildt with kit from Randakk. The bike starts but is popping and not idling nice. With clean plugs it will go for a couple of miles before it starts to act up. Got it home an checked the yellow plugs and the solenoid. Not good. But gives me hope for might get improvement.

[Cosmobiker]

[Cosmobiker]

[Cosmobiker]

The main positive is in bad condition. Will replace this and clean up the rest. Maybe spark will improve.

[Cosmobiker]

Found out nr. 1 is almost cold after idling and plug was vet. Tested the plug and there is spark. Nr. 3 is a bit varmer but plug is vet. Got spark. When idling the left side is popping. Thinking it is down to a few things now. Valves must be checked. Timing must be checked. If that is in order, i guess itmust be the valves. Compression is tested and is supposed to ne great. The bike starts at first crank. Can this be caused by to much gas?

[Cosmobiker]

Is it possible to get too much gas into the cylinder so it doesnt fire, but only manages to pop?
Will check compression later today.

[Cosmobiker]

Found this under the airfiltercover.

[Cosmobiker]

Comptest with plugs in place and full trotle is as follows:
1: 188psi
2: 182psi
3: 184psi
4: 179psi

The cylinder that is cold has the best compression.
Any thoughts anyone?

[Cosmobiker]

The bike starts easily with no choke and it is freezing outside. Running Rich?

[Cosmobiker]

Inside of tank. Not good.

[Cosmobiker]

Inside of tank. Not good.

[DenverWinger]

A couple gallons of vinegar are your friends.

[Cosmobiker]

Anyone tried lemon acid in gastank

[Cosmobiker]

Today i synced the carburetors. First i found some old spark plugs from an cb1100fboldor i owned 10 years ago. The bike started much better with these.
Hooked up the gauges after the bike had been idling for some time. Took some time to get the hang of only adjusting carb 1 and 2 and using nr. 4 to even it out. I adjusted nr. 1 a lot. The popping disapeared and i heard it starting to fire on the right side. Earlier the bike would start at an Instant without choke engaged.Now i must twist the trottle to start it. It is idling fine on around 1000rpm.Took it for a test and it is now pop free but lack some power.
I was going to tear into belts and timing because the PO said that dealership had overhauled the carbs with kit from Randakk.
But there are to much o-rings left to this being a Complete overhaul.
And i have read that the idle jets on the 1980 are fixed and im starting to belive that they are clogged on this bike on 1 and 3.
Cyl. 1 is warm , but not hot, 3 is a bit hotter. There are less power in the exhaust on the right side.
I want to check the airmixture setting and check the tip of the skrew for damage against the seating.
Starting to be optimistic about digging into and getting to know the carbs.
I hate to rely on others to fix Things for me and Logic goes a long way.

Left over unused bits

The old plugs. dont think they are correct.

[Cosmobiker]

[Cosmobiker]

Thinking of bying a ultrasound cleaner. The carbs had some deposits inside.

[Cosmobiker]

Started ultrasonic cleaning. It takes the gunk away. Found airmix screws out 3 whole turns. 1 and 3 are now in the rinse. On nr 3, i found the o ring on top of the washer under the airmix screw. The piston was black from the popping. I got a used carb set in tje mail. So i can use for parts and guidance. New plugs, wires and caps are bought. New belts are ordered. Nive winter tinkering.

[Cosmobiker]

[Good Hondog]

Good job. Hopefully you'll get it running great again.

[Cosmobiker]

Pretty clean.

[Cosmobiker]

As Im now reading about all things to be aware of during reassebly, can anyone tell what effect it will have that the airmix was 3 turns out and not 1 1/4 as described in manual. And what will happen when someone had put the washer in before the o-ring?
Then Im tinking about the contact surface between the carb body and the top. It was covered with sticky gas deposit.what is sealing this?

[Cosmobiker]

Reasembled the 1. Carb today. Good felling. But as I put in the float, I senced it was pivoting up in one corner. Put it on the bench and it is warped.

[Cosmobiker]

Starting to hope that the problems with the bike now will go away with corectly adjusted floats. I have donor carbs ariving this week in the mail. Hoping I find one there that is straight. It realy was nice to put one back together. Adjusting float heights I will save for last so I can set them with the whole rack on the side.

The right one is bendt

[Cosmobiker]

Tilted the carbs 1 and 3 on the side so the floats were reading against nede. Reading for nr. 1: 17,8mm and 16mm on the other side.
Nr. 3: 17,8mm. So I think the se carbs had a lot of air and very litle gas. Both cyl wasnt getting real hot and the exhaust didnt puff with same power as the other side. The PO sendt it to shop for changing starter and bought Randakk kit for carb overhaul. And I think the Shop messed up the bike. He rode it from Germany to Norway when he imported it. Started to clean carb nr. 3.

[Maz]

Starting to hope that the problems with the bike now will go away with corectly adjusted floats. I have donor carbs ariving this week in the mail. Hoping I find one there that is straight. It realy was nice to put one back together. Adjusting float heights I will save for last so I can set them with the whole rack on the side.2017-12-03 21.58.59.jpg2017-12-03 21.59.04.jpg2017-12-03 22.18.57.jpg2017-12-03 22.25.04.jpg

The floats can be (and must be) bent back in line. There is a guide on Randakks site showing how they should look, but, basically, just gently bend the metal to get both halves of the float parrallel, then just bend the little 'tang' gently to get the correct height, which should be the same all around the float. Keep gently adjusting until heights are correct and floats are level and parrallel.

Maz