GL1100 engine removal & missing bolts


Information and questions on GL1100 Goldwings (1980-1983)
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Wessel81
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Motorcycle: 1981 GL1100 Interstate

GL1100 engine removal & missing bolts

Post by Wessel81 »



Hi everybody,

My name is Wessel from the Netherlands and I'm new to this forum and also the Goldwing. I bought a 1981 GL1100 and try with TLC to get it good shape. Also with help of this forum I dismantled quite a lot already. Now after doubting long time I decided to also remove the engine from my Goldwing for some cleaning and repainting. I have easy access now, so it is now or never :)

I have two questions about it, hope you can help me out:
  • there are some electrical connections on the engine (water temp gauge, oil pressure etc). The haynes manual states they should all be removed. However most of them run into a connector just above the fan shroud. Can I not just disconnect the connector and leave the connections on the bike as-is? (besides of course throttle, choke, clutch etc)?
  • secondly can I take the engine out with the carburator still on and remove it once the engine is out? Or should I remove the carburator first
Next to that I seem to miss a bolt in every manifold (see red circle in picture), I read it this hole is used to do some vacuum measurement, but can anybody give me some insight what goes wrong having no bolts in there? Will I have some poor fuel mixture?


Thanks a lot for your help,

Wessel


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virgilmobile
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Re: GL1100 engine removal & missing bolts

Post by virgilmobile »

I pulled my carbs when I removed the engine.This allowed more wiggle room to get it off the driveshaft.Not saying it can't be done with just removing the airbox tho.
The missing bolts..they are for vacuum syncing the carbs and must be put back.It may still run but badly.
Disconnect electrical as you see fit.Just note where they go.
I prefer taking lots of pictures
DaveO430
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Re: GL1100 engine removal & missing bolts

Post by DaveO430 »

Yes, just disconnect the single connector, Haynes, Clymer etc. are OK if you know your machine but they can mislead you. Unbolt the intake runners from the heads and tie the carbs up to the frame.
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redbug
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Re: GL1100 engine removal & missing bolts

Post by redbug »

One more thought. every thing every one has said is right on the money but...would be a good time to practice the remove the carburetors from the left side, in case for some unknown reason they have to come off later. Just turn the right side intake runners to the top by backing the clamps off. A little twist and wiggle maybe for them to break loose. Remove from the left gently, if it hangs back up, start again. After you get them out, put them back on. You just never know. Practice is good. Congratulations on your 1981 Goldwing and just a reminder, pictures on you disassembly as you go, you cant take to many, and pictures for us too. No photo no moto. (all in humor for what it is) Keep us posted.
" Riding on Tulsa Time "
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Wilcoy02
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Re: GL1100 engine removal & missing bolts

Post by Wilcoy02 »

The missing screw part # is 93500-05008-oA screw, pan 5x8
........................... # is 90452-323-000 washer, thrust, 5mm

It is easier to leave the carbs in the bike (hang the carbs to the top of the frame) to remove the engine.
Wessel81
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Re: GL1100 engine removal & missing bolts

Post by Wessel81 »

Thanks all for your responses. Already added the missing bolts/washers to my list of things to order.

Although I can hang them, I like the idea of redbug to pull out the carbs (and separate from the engine) now we can, because for sure at some time a rebuild might be needed. It will also make it possible to do a good clean; dirty carbs above a newly painted engine looks bad too me :shock:

I will keep you posted, but be aware, progress might sometimes be slow. For me there is no hurry, it just a kind hobby & learning for me, might take years :) I have another bike for riding, so no issue there.

Anyway, below a picture how far the bike is dismantled, as you see plenty of room to focus on engine/carbs removal.


DaveO430
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Re: GL1100 engine removal & missing bolts

Post by DaveO430 »

Having the tank out makes it so much easier.
Wessel81
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Re: GL1100 engine removal & missing bolts

Post by Wessel81 »

It is out. Went fairly easy with all the other things already out of the way.

It appeared absolutely necessary to turn the right hand-side manifolds. Without doing that (Haynes does not mention that this should be done), in my opinion you will never get the carbs out.
I also had to keep a close eye on the spark plug cables they could be caught between frame and carbs, by which you miss 0.5 - 1 cm room to move the carbs up.

On to the next stage, removal of the engine, will however have to wait until next week.

One additional question. Because I never intended to dismantle the GL1100 this far, just got carried away :), I did not yet drain the oil. Would that become an issue with engine removal and also with planned valve cover removal, timing belt cover removal (polishing, belt replacement). Or should I better just drain it now (with cold oil) and when everything is back together put oil in, just for starting the engine, warm the oil and then again do a full oil replacement to really get rid of the old oil. On the other hand it will take a while (year?) before everything is cleaned/replaced/put together and the engine will start again, maybe better to keep the current oil in for the time being.
Please advise. Thanks.




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Wilcoy02
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98 valkyrie sold 8/16

Re: GL1100 engine removal & missing bolts

Post by Wilcoy02 »

It does not matter when you drain it. Probably best to drain it after the engine is out. You will have engine oil left in the motor either way you do it. When you get the engine out you, will find the oil in the screen at the bottom of the engine which needs to be cleaned.

Haynes does not tell you all the things about the bike. Some places in the book they are totally off the mark.
Wessel81
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Re: GL1100 engine removal & missing bolts

Post by Wessel81 »

Hi all,

It has been a while, had little time available for the bike. I did manage to dismantle it further however


Due to other priorities the bike will now probably sit for this for a while, my question is if there is anything I should do to keep the engine itself in good order.
As described earlier there is still (old) oil in there, should I turn the driveshaft now and then to have the pistons move a little bit? Poor oil in the cylinders? Engine will have to stay like this for at least around a year.

Thanks, Wessel
DaveO430
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Re: GL1100 engine removal & missing bolts

Post by DaveO430 »

Definitely put some oil in the cylinders and turn the crankshaft, not the drive shaft. Then cover every opening.
Wessel81
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Re: GL1100 engine removal & missing bolts

Post by Wessel81 »

Clear but again new stuff for me, so please help me out.

Putting oil in the cylinders via the spark plugs holes? carburetor is off also, so might also be an option? or somewhere else? And so, how much per cylinder to cover all the holes?

What is the best way to turn the crankshaft manually on the GL1100, some say from the front behind the front belt covers, but other say from the back, but also read you can damage a lot if done wrongly.

Thanks for your advice.

Wessel
DaveO430
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Re: GL1100 engine removal & missing bolts

Post by DaveO430 »

Pull the spark plugs to prevent hydrolock but you can put the oil (a couple tablespoons) down the intake port. Then turn by the crank bolt on the front.
Wessel81
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Re: GL1100 engine removal & missing bolts

Post by Wessel81 »

Hi, thanks for your response.

To be clear the crank bolt is the one in the middle?

Thanks
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RBGERSON
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Re: GL1100 engine removal & missing bolts

Post by RBGERSON »

Yes the middle one..but I'd leave the front covers on and use the the stator bolt to turn the engine..only clockwise..it's inside that 17mm bolt cover on the back of the engine..I'd put the carbs back on the engine and leave it buttoned up..with air box on too..stuff rag into the horn to keep critters out. before you put it back in the bike change your timing belts, take the oil screen out and clean it..lower right side toward the front, might want to pull the cooling tubes on top and put new o rings in, rebuild the carbs??, check you stator output..needs to be running to check..but you can run these on a bench..for a short time..w/o water or put the radiator back on..just things to check before you reinstall the engine.
HAD LOTS OF GOLDWING 75-83
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Wessel81
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Re: GL1100 engine removal & missing bolts

Post by Wessel81 »

Hi,

The engine is completely out of the bike, so I will definitely take your list into account when putting it back in. What do you mean with "oil screen"? Where is that sitting?

Is there a specific reason why I should put the carbs back on already? The intakes are stuffed with rag so the cylinders are closed. After putting oil in and turning crank, stuffing rag in intakes, should be ok for another year I think?
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Re: GL1100 engine removal & missing bolts

Post by WingAdmin »

Wessel81 wrote: Wed May 23, 2018 8:50 am Hi,

The engine is completely out of the bike, so I will definitely take your list into account when putting it back in. What do you mean with "oil screen"? Where is that sitting?
You definitely want to clean the oil screen while the engine is out of the bike, as it's a pain to get to when it's in the bike. Read here:

viewtopic.php?t=15228
Wessel81
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Re: GL1100 engine removal & missing bolts

Post by Wessel81 »

Thanks, clear and indeed definitely something to do begore installing.

Any other tips? 👍
Wessel81
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Re: GL1100 engine removal & missing bolts

Post by Wessel81 »

Hi,

So I went ahead and turned it on the stator side. I my enthusiasm already turned the crank shaft one turn without putting fresh oil in the intake ports, just to see the valves move. Hope I did not damage anything :shock: . Then I pulled the spark plugs and poured some fresh oil in all 4 intake ports.

Learnings on the job when turning crank shaft:
- oil can come out of the spark plug holes (is there a reason why this only happens by 2 holes (1 on each side), I assume just a result of how the pistons were sitting?)
- oil will come out of outlet ports
- be prepared with paper, cloths etc :)

Turned the crank shaft again, turned smoothly, will oil it again in 6 months or so.

I also wanted to get the bolt out where you can see the timing ( T mark), do not know the exact name of this bolt, number 17 in the picture below. Just to prepare for changing timing belts.
What do you guys use to turn it loose, is there some kind of special tool needed?

Thanks.


DaveO430
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Re: GL1100 engine removal & missing bolts

Post by DaveO430 »

Wessel81 wrote: Thu May 24, 2018 4:02 pm Hi,

So I went ahead and turned it on the stator side. I my enthusiasm already turned the crank shaft one turn without putting fresh oil in the intake ports, just to see the valves move. Hope I did not damage anything :shock: . Then I pulled the spark plugs and poured some fresh oil in all 4 intake ports.

Learnings on the job when turning crank shaft:
- oil can come out of the spark plug holes (is there a reason why this only happens by 2 holes (1 on each side), I assume just a result of how the pistons were sitting?)
- oil will come out of outlet ports
- be prepared with paper, cloths etc :)

Turned the crank shaft again, turned smoothly, will oil it again in 6 months or so.

I also wanted to get the bolt out where you can see the timing ( T mark), do not know the exact name of this bolt, number 17 in the picture below. Just to prepare for changing timing belts.
What do you guys use to turn it loose, is there some kind of special tool needed?

Thanks.

Knipsel.JPG
Turning it by the rotor bolt is just a convenient way of doing it when the timing covers are on, by the crank bolt if you can get to it is easier and less likely to damage anything. Yes oil will come out, that's why I said a couple of tablespoons, no more. Depends where the cams are whether it comes out the spark plug hole or the exhaust port. Just a large screwdriver is all that's needed to remove the timing plug.


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