SYNCING AND IDLE SCEW ADJUSTMENT


Information and questions on GL1100 Goldwings (1980-1983)
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OTTERCOMET
Posts: 29
Joined: Sat Jul 11, 2015 4:13 pm
Location: WHITBY ONTARIO CANADA
Motorcycle: 1982 GL1100 INTERSTATE

SYNCING AND IDLE SCEW ADJUSTMENT

Post by OTTERCOMET » Sun May 06, 2018 10:25 pm



Finally got the rebuilt carbs back in the bike and fired it up. I was amazed at how easily it started. 82 GL1100i
At this point I have not synced the carbs and it appears to be idling rich and continues to be rich when revved. I am also detecting the odd backfire.
1) Will syncing the carbs reduce or eliminate the rich condition and the backfiring?
2) Which do you adjust first - synchronization or idle mixture screw? - all idle mixture screws were set open 3 turns as specified in Harold's manual (purchased with Randdak's kit).

As always, all suggestions/recommendations gratefully accepted



DaveO430
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Location: Amity. Ar
Motorcycle: 2010 GL1800
2004 Suzuki DR200

Re: SYNCING AND IDLE SCEW ADJUSTMENT

Post by DaveO430 » Mon May 07, 2018 6:48 am

No, synching will not cure a rich condition, neither will adjusting the mixture screws. Your floats are too high or there are air passages that are still plugged or the jets are too big.

OTTERCOMET
Posts: 29
Joined: Sat Jul 11, 2015 4:13 pm
Location: WHITBY ONTARIO CANADA
Motorcycle: 1982 GL1100 INTERSTATE

Re: SYNCING AND IDLE SCEW ADJUSTMENT

Post by OTTERCOMET » Mon May 07, 2018 7:27 am

Thanks for the input.

All the jets are the originals and when cleaning, I followed the instructions (using a bristle from a brass brush) to insure I didn't damage anything - nothing was forced. I am pretty sure I got all the passages clear - with each one, once I thought I had it clear, I'd spray some carb cleaner and follow that with compressed air and observed the mist exiting the other end. So I am going to make an initial assumption that it is the float setting and I need a little clarification on the terminology. When you say they are set "too high" which way should I be adjusting. I used a set of calipers and adjusted as close as I could to the prescribed 15 mm. relative to the carb body. Should I be reducing that dimension or increasing it, going towards 14 mm or towards 16 mm.

DaveO430
Posts: 877
Joined: Fri Jan 02, 2015 7:28 pm
Location: Amity. Ar
Motorcycle: 2010 GL1800
2004 Suzuki DR200

Re: SYNCING AND IDLE SCEW ADJUSTMENT

Post by DaveO430 » Mon May 07, 2018 4:15 pm

OTTERCOMET wrote:
Mon May 07, 2018 7:27 am
Thanks for the input.

All the jets are the originals and when cleaning, I followed the instructions (using a bristle from a brass brush) to insure I didn't damage anything - nothing was forced. I am pretty sure I got all the passages clear - with each one, once I thought I had it clear, I'd spray some carb cleaner and follow that with compressed air and observed the mist exiting the other end. So I am going to make an initial assumption that it is the float setting and I need a little clarification on the terminology. When you say they are set "too high" which way should I be adjusting. I used a set of calipers and adjusted as close as I could to the prescribed 15 mm. relative to the carb body. Should I be reducing that dimension or increasing it, going towards 14 mm or towards 16 mm.
In this case higher is a lower #, 14 is higher than 16, the line on the side of the floats will be parallel with the flat of the carb body when they are right, that is when the carbs are tilted so there is no pressure on the float needle. A lot of people focus on the fuel jets and miss the air passages. There is one on each side of the top of the carb that are critical, one under the kidney shaped plastic piece that goes to the main jet and one directly above the air cut off valve that goes into the low speed jet.

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DenverWinger
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Motorcycle: 1980 GL-1100 STD Vetter (2005-)
1993 GL-1500 Aspencade (2017-)
1983 Trav-Lite Camper (2010-)
Past rides
1972 CL-350 (1980-1988) sold
1978 Suzuki GS-550 (1985-2005) sold
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Re: SYNCING AND IDLE SCEW ADJUSTMENT

Post by DenverWinger » Mon May 07, 2018 9:17 pm

Others have said the best way to set float levels is with the carburetor rack standing on one side or the other, the floats just hanging straight down so you can easily set the height without compressing the little pin in the float needle....


They say 98% of all Hardleys ever made are still on the road..... The other 2% made it home. :lol:
(I stole this from somebody on another GW site...) :roll:

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