new to forum and just bought a 80 GL1100

[Rc67]

hello everyone,

I recently registered to the forum to find some much-needed information on refreshing a recently purchased 80 GL1100. the bike starts up immediately and runs, but I want to make sure I address everything necessary
1. changed timing belts
2.flush radiator and replace the thermostat.
3. change oil
4. carb rebuild, because I noticed that, when started, the engine runs high rpm's and I read where Idle jets could be the issue
5. replacing the exhaust header gaskets, because there is an exhaust leak on the left side.
6. will change the tires also

I have a couple of questions:
1. when I removed the old thermostat, I noticed that the water pump impeller did not move. I'm assuming it works like an engine water pump where the motor turns it, but I wanted to make sure my perspective was correct or not.

2. I bought a carb rebuild kit, and it said it was for 80-83 gl1100. I noticed that the idle jet is threaded, but from what I can read, carbs have a push/pull idle jet. saw a youtube video where a guy tapped the port with an M6x .75mm tap. I've done tap screws before, but wanted to know if anyone else has?

3. I purchased another turn signal relay, because I thought my current one was busted due to the signal lights come on, but don't blink but just stay on. unfortunately, it still does this even with the new one. is there some magic configuration, like connecting all the turn signal lights in order to get a proper signal response?


I'm sorry that this post is so long-winded, but I've tried to scour this amazing forum before I worked up the courage to post something. Please let me know if I missed something or if there are any links to a post that I overlooked.

[Aussie81Interstate]

For question 3 - follow your wiring backwards from each light and make sure you have a good ground connection - that is more than likely what is happening.. If you have corroded connections make sure to clean them up - this should solve this issue.

Welcome

[Wilcoy02]

Welcome to the forum from Ohio

#1 You are correct.

Change out the brake fluids. Clean up the brake pistons.

A lot of us run 2 oz. of ATF in the gas tank.

[Rc67]

Thanks I will definitely check the grounding for the wired

[Rc67]

Darn forgot about the break fluid and pistons.

[Wilcoy02]

Was your water propeller plastic or metal? If metal someone has already replaced it. You should not get any wiggle from the prop.

[Rc67]

The prop is metal and there really isn’t any wiggle from it. Thanks

[Rc67]

I have one more question about Exhaust header gaskets. I went ahead and purchased new copper gaskets, and was wondering, do i have to drop the whole exhaust pipe on each side in order to replace the gasket? was hoping to just drop them down slightly to replace, they kind of look like a PTA to remove.

[Wilcoy02]

If the pipes are already off--replace.
If not -do not replace.
Ride the bike and listen for any leak at the headers.

[Rc67]

If the pipes are already off--replace.
If not -do not replace.
Ride the bike and listen for any leak at the headers.

Hey Wilcoy02,

Pipes are still on, but I'm getting some exhaust smoke from where the Pipes connect to the Cylinder Head, on the left side. I was thinking about tightening the bolts, but they look pretty tight already.

[Wilcoy02]

Replace the left side and ride it.

[Rc67]

Got another question for you guys. I had to cut my radiator hoses in order to remove my radiator, I remember someone saying that they got some replacement hoses from NAPA. Not necessarily exact fit hoses,but essentially the same diameter hoses. I wanted to make sure that was correct or not or should I look at another store for replacements..

[Wilcoy02]

NAPA # 7733 Hose.

Take the hose you cut off the bike and cut this NAPA hose from your old hose for length. You have both the upper and lower hose

[Rc67]

NAPA # 7733 Hose.

Take the hose you cut off the bike and cut this NAPA hose from your old hose for length. You have both the upper and lower hose

I do have both hoses. I will go by NAPA today.

Thanks again.

[WingAdmin]

NAPA # 7733 Hose.

Take the hose you cut off the bike and cut this NAPA hose from your old hose for length. You have both the upper and lower hose

I do have both hoses. I will go by NAPA today.

Thanks again.

No, what he is saying is that you can build both the upper and lower hose out of one NAPA hose. First, this is the NAPA 7733 hose:



Cutting it in half, gives you both the upper and lower hoses you need. The top hoses in the picture are the original Honda OEM. The bottom hoses in the picture are from the NAPA 7733 cut in half:

[Rc67]

Thanks wingadmin, I mis-stated earlier reply. I meant that I have the original hoses to use as reference with the new hose, that I will buy from NAPA. Your pics are exactly what I needed as well.

Thanks again.

[Rc67]

Guys, it seems that my GL1100 is taking me down the rabbit hole, so to speak. Now I’m trying to find a M6x0.75 threaded tap and I’m struggling to find one. I checked on Amazon, but either they are unavailable or some reviews said that you are thinking it’s an M6x0.75 Tap, but it’s really an M6x1.00 Tap. Can you all suggest a place to purchase this specific size?

[Rc67]

Guys, it seems that my GL1100 is taking me down the rabbit hole, so to speak. Now I’m trying to find a M6x0.75 threaded tap and I’m struggling to find one. I checked on Amazon, but either they are unavailable or some reviews said that you are thinking it’s an M6x0.75 Tap, but it’s really an M6x1.00 Tap. Can you all suggest a place to purchase this specific size?

Well I went to Harbour freight, last night, and saw a metric Tap and Die set that hand the correct spec tap for 15.99. I think that will be the ticket for now.

[Rc67]

so,

after a refresh of my 1980 GL1100

1.changed timing belts
2. new thermostat
3. new oil filter and oil
4. carburetor rebuild, new idle jets, main jets etc. except for the idle screws, I was hesitant to do this because I did not want to alter the current position of them.

I buttoned everything back up and proceeded to start the bike. I'm finding that gas is dripping from the float bowls on the Carb, I thought I had screwed the intake manifold down to the right torque spec, but I see gas sputtering out of there. I still have the new idle screws, because I think fuel is wanting to seep from them or somewhere. I'm worried that I will have to pull the damn Carb off again, which was a royal PTA, but, if I have to I have to. was hoping that I can get some pointers as to what I might be able to do without going that direction?

it seems like the bike wants to start, but never gets to that point, and I keep running down the battery...

[Wilcoy02]

When you changed the timing belts did you check the valves intake and exhaust? That made my bike perk up a lot.

[Rc67]

When you changed the timing belts did you check the valves intake and exhaust? That made my bike perk up a lot.

Wilcoy02, I didn’t check those. Only thing i checked was the left exhaust and tightened it so that I could eliminate the exhaust leak..on another note, I noticed that the intake manifold bolts were somewhat loose and gas was escaping thru there until tightened them as well. Suspect that that is where a large portion of the extra gas was coming from and not the idle screws, will have to wait and see.

[Rc67]

an additional piece to the conversation, after about 2 hours I came back to my bike and proceeded to try and start it up again so that I could check the plugs to see if they were wet with gas. wouldn't turn over. I had this happen when I first got it. PO put in a new battery and the acid in the cells were uneven and not "stratified?" hope I'm using that term correctly. I leveled up and then put it on a battery charger and it cranked up after that. so I assumed this is what was happening. I charged it up again and tried it again, and it still would not crank. I got a little curious and went ahead an pulled the spark plugs, no gas, but could have been that it evaporated. I proceeded to turn the engine from the back clockwise to see if it was stuck. the engine rotated just fine until I got to F1 mark and kind had a hitch in it's get along but still moved passed it and rotated.

I got the wild idea to just make sure the timing belts, which I changed, were still intact. that was hell on wheels trying to pull the covers off without moving the radiator, I know, but it was a beast to put the radiator back on so I just wanted to leave that out of the picture. after I pulled the covers, then went back to rotating the engine again until I got to the hitch "F1" mark. When I moved passed the mark, it slid just slightly passed the "T1" mark, I looked at the timing marks and they were dead on.

my issue is, when I initially changed the belts, I made sure it what was right on the T1 mark and the timing belt wheels were "UP" and lined up on the notches. I'm a little nervous now, so, should I just go ahead and do the valves intake and exhaust?

[Wilcoy02]

Believe it or not but I am having the exact same problem with my left head.
2 Springs broke on the valves. Now I can not get past a spot when turning the crank.
Will let you know tomorrow on what my mechanic does.

[Rc67]

Believe it or not but I am having the exact same problem with my left head.
2 Springs broke on the valves. Now I can not get past a spot when turning the crank.
Will let you know tomorrow on what my mechanic does.

Thanks, I’m a little nervous about myself. I’m gonna pull the covers, but will wait to hear what you find.

[Wilcoy02]

When I put the rocker's on I torqued them to 20 ft. lbs. He untorqued the 6 bolts for the rack to 15 ft. lbs. This allowed us to turn the engine over with no catches.