83 gl1100 engine swap now 3 yellow wires get HOT!!


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N3G0T18T0R
Posts: 3
Joined: Sun Aug 05, 2018 11:31 pm
Location: United States
Motorcycle: 1983 Gl1100 A Aspencade

83 gl1100 engine swap now 3 yellow wires get HOT!!

Post by N3G0T18T0R » Sun Aug 05, 2018 11:57 pm



Hello,

Ok so i got my first wing (83 gl1100 aspencade) and within 100 miles it blew up. So i grabbed a 82 bike cheap and slapped the motor in my bike. Everything was plug and play. Besides the od and neutral switch which i found and fixed.

I soldered the three yellow wires together and got my bike ready to crank. As i did, my starter started to crank and then stopped. So i checked my battery wires to make sure i had them tight.

They were but they were hot so i grabbed my screwdriver and unhooked them. As i was pulling off the positive i noticed it spark (kind of like when you have a wire crossed)

Once the battery was unhooked i bumped the 3 yellow wires and noticed they were way hotter than the others. (This is why I'm figuring it's from there)

What could my problem be?

Thanks in advance



DaveO430
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Motorcycle: 2010 GL1800
2004 Suzuki DR200

Re: 83 gl1100 engine swap now 3 yellow wires get HOT!!

Post by DaveO430 » Mon Aug 06, 2018 6:40 am

Not sure what would happen if the battery was somehow connected backward but a possibility. I bought a new battery online that had the terminals reversed and no markings. Otherwise it could only be a bad rectifier.

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DenverWinger
Posts: 379
Joined: Thu Jun 23, 2011 2:20 pm
Location: Denver, CO
Motorcycle: 1980 GL-1100 STD Vetter (2005-)
1993 GL-1500 Aspencade (2017-)
1983 Trav-Lite Camper (2010-)
Past rides
1972 CL-350 (1980-1988) sold
1978 Suzuki GS-550 (1985-2005) sold
1977 GL-1000 (2002-2006) sold

Re: 83 gl1100 engine swap now 3 yellow wires get HOT!!

Post by DenverWinger » Mon Aug 06, 2018 7:03 am

My first guess is the rectifier/regulator unit is shorted internally (bad diodes). Disconnect the plug at the unit and try again, if wires now not getting hot you should be able to start the bike. Of course, you won't have any charging until you replace the unit.

I think the Haynes manual (if you have one) has a basic test procedure for checking the rectifier/regulator with an ohmmeter, but if wires are getting hot with it connected and not getting hot with it disconnected I would say that in itself is a pretty conclusive test and you can chuck the unit.

Also check the stator in your replacement engine for a short to ground, unsolder the three yellow wires and then measure ohms from the yellow stator wires to ground (engine block). You should get no reading (open circuit). If you have a shorted stator, the one in your old engine is probably still good. Normally a stator with a short to ground wouldn't cause wires to get hot, it just wouldn't charge properly. But if the rectifier/regulator also has internal short that could make the stator wires get hot, too.
They say 98% of all Hardleys ever made are still on the road..... The other 2% made it home. :lol:
(I stole this from somebody on another GW site...) :roll:

N3G0T18T0R
Posts: 3
Joined: Sun Aug 05, 2018 11:31 pm
Location: United States
Motorcycle: 1983 Gl1100 A Aspencade

Re: 83 gl1100 engine swap now 3 yellow wires get HOT!!

Post by N3G0T18T0R » Mon Aug 06, 2018 7:08 am

Alright ill check the rectified. Its the same battery i used before so i know its good.

Next question. How do i check/change the rectifier and can i take the good one off the 83 motor and put it on the new 82 engine?

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DenverWinger
Posts: 379
Joined: Thu Jun 23, 2011 2:20 pm
Location: Denver, CO
Motorcycle: 1980 GL-1100 STD Vetter (2005-)
1993 GL-1500 Aspencade (2017-)
1983 Trav-Lite Camper (2010-)
Past rides
1972 CL-350 (1980-1988) sold
1978 Suzuki GS-550 (1985-2005) sold
1977 GL-1000 (2002-2006) sold

Re: 83 gl1100 engine swap now 3 yellow wires get HOT!!

Post by DenverWinger » Mon Aug 06, 2018 7:16 am

The rectifier/regulator is not on the motor, it's under the false tank on the left side. Follow the three yellow stator wires and you'll see them going to a big plug with the three yellow wires and some other red and green and black wires connecting to a "Black Box" about the size of a pack of cigarettes.
They say 98% of all Hardleys ever made are still on the road..... The other 2% made it home. :lol:
(I stole this from somebody on another GW site...) :roll:

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redbug
Posts: 421
Joined: Fri Sep 30, 2011 8:22 am
Location: Broken Arrow,Ok
Motorcycle: 1983 Gl1100I
1986 Harley FLHT

Re: 83 gl1100 engine swap now 3 yellow wires get HOT!!

Post by redbug » Mon Aug 06, 2018 12:55 pm

N3G0T18T0R wrote:
Sun Aug 05, 2018 11:57 pm
Hello,

Ok so i got my first wing (83 gl1100 aspencade) and within 100 miles it blew up. So i grabbed a 82 bike cheap and slapped the motor in my bike. Everything was plug and play. Besides the od and neutral switch which i found and fixed.

I soldered the three yellow wires together and got my bike ready to crank. As i did, my starter started to crank and then stopped. So i checked my battery wires to make sure i had them tight.

They were but they were hot so i grabbed my screwdriver and unhooked them. As i was pulling off the positive i noticed it spark (kind of like when you have a wire crossed)

Once the battery was unhooked i bumped the 3 yellow wires and noticed they were way hotter than the others. (This is why I'm figuring it's from there)

What could my problem be?

Thanks in advance
You soldered all three wires together?
" Ridin on Tulsa Time "

N3G0T18T0R
Posts: 3
Joined: Sun Aug 05, 2018 11:31 pm
Location: United States
Motorcycle: 1983 Gl1100 A Aspencade

Re: 83 gl1100 engine swap now 3 yellow wires get HOT!!

Post by N3G0T18T0R » Mon Aug 06, 2018 4:18 pm

I soldered the 3 wires together individuality (3 seperate solders)

I cut the wires apart again trying to see if it will start and im getting a click and a slight smoke from the starter wire. So im going to try ti clean up the connection and start from there.

Although after cutting the 3 wires apart again i noticed none of the wires were getting hot.



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