Electrical problems.


Information and questions on GL1100 Goldwings (1980-1983)
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Theredcrayola
Posts: 3
Joined: Sun Oct 21, 2018 5:59 pm
Location: United States
Motorcycle: 1980 gl1100

Electrical problems.

Post by Theredcrayola »



1980 gl1100 just picked it up. I've tested the resistance at the 3 plug stator connector and it's 1.5 ohms across the board. I've tried testing the rectifier / regulator but I'm not sure I'm doing it right. Took the rectifier off an and I only get resistance red to red an green to green 0.3 ohms for both. I've tried every other wire combo possibility an i get nothing. The bike starts right up an runs with a jump pack but as soon as I undo the jumper cables it's starts sputtering and won't rev. I measured voltage at the battery leads an I only get 7 volts. I'm thinking it's the rectifier / regulator but just wanna double check before I buy a new part. I've searched the forum an I'm pretty sure I'm on the right path.


DaveO430
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Joined: Fri Jan 02, 2015 7:28 pm
Location: Amity. Ar
Motorcycle: 2010 GL1800
2004 Suzuki DR200

Re: Electrical problems.

Post by DaveO430 »

If I understand correctly you were trying to get it to run with no battery? Not going to happen and doing that might blow the regulator. The rectifier will only show continuity in 1 direction, meaning which meter lead is connected to which wire, and meters vary. You would be checking yellow to green and yellow to red.
Theredcrayola
Posts: 3
Joined: Sun Oct 21, 2018 5:59 pm
Location: United States
Motorcycle: 1980 gl1100

Re: Electrical problems.

Post by Theredcrayola »

Yeah tried those wires an got nothing on my multi meter. My battery is a bit low that's why I was using the jump pack. With the engine off I get 10 to 11 volts on the battery with it running it I only get 7 volts. Also when I try to rev it up it drops even further in voltage. I'm out of town for work until Thursday so I'll order a new battery an rectifier / regulator. I'm pretty sure it's the rectifier I get nothing on my multi meter yellow to green or green to yellow or any wire combination except green to green and red to red an even then it's just barely 0.3 ohm.
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J Runge
Posts: 105
Joined: Mon Oct 30, 2017 7:06 am
Location: Oester Toreby, Denmark
Motorcycle: 1981 GL1100B

Re: Electrical problems.

Post by J Runge »

7 volts, it sounds 2 me light you have a faulty stator.
Did you measure continuency to the frame on the 3 wires from the stator?

There are 6 diodes in a rectifier, if 1 or more is faulty, the bike will not charge correctly.

Most instruments has at diode setting.
As written above, you are able to measure both way on a faulty diode
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J Runge
Posts: 105
Joined: Mon Oct 30, 2017 7:06 am
Location: Oester Toreby, Denmark
Motorcycle: 1981 GL1100B

Re: Electrical problems.

Post by J Runge »

When you test your chargingsystem, it is important, that the batteri is good, and fully charged.

I made a video while was having trouble with charging system my self. Here is a link if you want to see it, i am testing my rectifier. The video shows how the first diode on the negativside is faulty.



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I hope this can be helpfull to you
Theredcrayola
Posts: 3
Joined: Sun Oct 21, 2018 5:59 pm
Location: United States
Motorcycle: 1980 gl1100

Re: Electrical problems.

Post by Theredcrayola »

Video was definitely helpful. That's what I did with it on ohms reading I also tried that testing for continuity and got nothing on my multimeter. I'll retry it again when I get back from traveling for work. I appreciate all the help so far you guys are great. Also just to make sure I'm testing the stator right. I put in a good fully charged battery fire it up with the stator plug disconnected. I then test for ac voltage across all of the plugs careful not to shock myself. That's the one thing I haven't tried yet. Once I've tried all of that an made sure my stator is isn't cooked I'll go ahead and order a new rectifier. I guess it could aslo be a bad battery shorting out a few cell once it's underload. I plan on putting in a brand new battery when I get back.
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J Runge
Posts: 105
Joined: Mon Oct 30, 2017 7:06 am
Location: Oester Toreby, Denmark
Motorcycle: 1981 GL1100B

Re: Electrical problems.

Post by J Runge »

Batteries are kind of tricky, they can put out 12v or more, but as soon as you ad load, the voltage will plumb it. A way You can test your batteri, by using your wing, is 2 measure the voltage across the battery while using the starter to turn over the engine. A fully charged a healthy battery should maintain a voldtageoutput above 10 volts
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DenverWinger
Posts: 1944
Joined: Thu Jun 23, 2011 2:20 pm
Location: Denver, CO
Motorcycle: (s)
1980 GL1100 STD Vetter (2005-)
1993 GL1500 Aspencade (2017-)
1983 Trav-Lite Camper (2010-)
Past rides
1972 CL350 (1980-1988) sold
1978 Suzuki GS550 (1985-2005) sold
1977 GL1000 (2002-2006) sold

Re: Electrical problems.

Post by DenverWinger »

Theredcrayola wrote: Mon Oct 22, 2018 5:52 pm I then test for ac voltage across all of the plugs careful not to shock myself.
AC voltage should be roughly the same between all three legs at the same RPM.
And the last stator test is to measure ohms between one of the stator leads and the engine block. Should be no reading (open circuit) otherwise you have an insulation failure and short to ground somewhere in the stator.

With a grounded leg in the stator, the stator will still output AC voltage, but being out-of-balance due to the ground won't charge the battery (the voltage regulator works by varying the amount of current shunted to ground on one of the stator legs)


♫ 99 Little Bugs in the Code, ♪
♪ 99 Bugs in the Code. ♫ :(
♫ Take one down, Patch it around, ♪
♫ 127 Little Bugs in the Code. ♫ ♪ :shock:

~Mark
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