New question to an Old Thread
New question to an Old Thread
So,
a lot has happened since I purchased my 80 GL1100 in May of last year. 1. High idle 2. changed my belts but took the engine off of TDC.
1. tried to clean carbs, but I purchased lackluster gaskets. ended up having to send it off to a professional to clean for me.
2. because I screwed up the position of the engine in relation to the left cylinder head, I broke a valve stem and gouged the cylinder. got another cylinder head, cleaned the bloody hell out the surfaces, popped it on, and now the engine runs well, except for a little clunking from the transmission. I did a clutch tightening on the back first then on the lever by the engine, and finally at the lever. much better shift thru now.
my final piece, I hope, is the neutral light switch which is bright when neutral and less bright when in gear. I know what I have to do, but dammit, how did you all wedge the wood in between the frame and the engine? I loosened the back engine bolt and pulled it out, and then engine bolt in the front engine bolt, which is below the neutral light switch, does not have a bolt on it just a cotter pin. I tried to flex the frame without success, so I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction...thanks
a lot has happened since I purchased my 80 GL1100 in May of last year. 1. High idle 2. changed my belts but took the engine off of TDC.
1. tried to clean carbs, but I purchased lackluster gaskets. ended up having to send it off to a professional to clean for me.
2. because I screwed up the position of the engine in relation to the left cylinder head, I broke a valve stem and gouged the cylinder. got another cylinder head, cleaned the bloody hell out the surfaces, popped it on, and now the engine runs well, except for a little clunking from the transmission. I did a clutch tightening on the back first then on the lever by the engine, and finally at the lever. much better shift thru now.
my final piece, I hope, is the neutral light switch which is bright when neutral and less bright when in gear. I know what I have to do, but dammit, how did you all wedge the wood in between the frame and the engine? I loosened the back engine bolt and pulled it out, and then engine bolt in the front engine bolt, which is below the neutral light switch, does not have a bolt on it just a cotter pin. I tried to flex the frame without success, so I'm hoping someone can point me in the right direction...thanks
- DenverWinger
- Posts: 2318
- Joined: Thu Jun 23, 2011 2:20 pm
- Location: Denver, CO
- Motorcycle: (s)
'80 GL1100 STD Vetter (2005-)
'93 GL1500 Aspencade (2017-)
'83 Trav-Lite Camper (2010-)
Past rides
'72 CL350 (1980-1988) sold
'78 Suzuki GS550 (1985-2005) sold
'77 GL1000 (2002-2006) sold
Re: New question to an Old Thread
If Neutral light changes brightness when shifting in/out of neutral, methinks the switch is OK and something else is putting a different ground path to the bulb. Seems there's a couple diodes in the Neutral light circuit, one of them may be "futzed".
A local inventor has figured a way to turn a sausage grinder backward to manufacture pigs.
♫ 99 Little Bugs in the Code, ♪
♪ 99 Bugs in the Code. ♫
♫ Take one down, Patch it around, ♪
♫ 127 Little Bugs in the Code. ♫ ♪
~Mark

♫ 99 Little Bugs in the Code, ♪
♪ 99 Bugs in the Code. ♫

♫ Take one down, Patch it around, ♪
♫ 127 Little Bugs in the Code. ♫ ♪

~Mark
Re: New question to an Old Thread
You wouldn’t happen to know where those diodes might be located?DenverWinger wrote: ↑Tue Jan 22, 2019 6:05 pm If Neutral light changes brightness when shifting in/out of neutral, methinks the switch is OK and something else is putting a different ground path to the bulb. Seems there's a couple diodes in the Neutral light circuit, one of them may be "futzed".
- Wilcoy02
- Posts: 1212
- Joined: Sun Nov 21, 2010 11:37 pm
- Location: Marengo, Ohio
- Motorcycle: 1983 GL1100 I purchased 3/16
1983 GL1100I frame with an 80 engine. poor boy installed with C-5 ignition--DIED in Grande Prairie Alberta Canada 8/15
98 valkyrie sold 8/16
Re: New question to an Old Thread
I know one is buried in the wiring harness.
Located by the left knee.
There is a branch that goes to the right side.
Unwrap the harness tape by left knee and work your way to the branch. Buried in the wires is a diode. I had to replace as my neutral light never went off.
I have not found this diode in any parts catalog or schematics.
Located by the left knee.
There is a branch that goes to the right side.
Unwrap the harness tape by left knee and work your way to the branch. Buried in the wires is a diode. I had to replace as my neutral light never went off.
I have not found this diode in any parts catalog or schematics.
Re: New question to an Old Thread
Thank you for the info I will check it tomorrow..Wilcoy02 wrote: ↑Tue Jan 22, 2019 7:53 pm I know one is buried in the wiring harness.
Located by the left knee.
There is a branch that goes to the right side.
Unwrap the harness tape by left knee and work your way to the branch. Buried in the wires is a diode. I had to replace as my neutral light never went off.
I have not found this diode in any parts catalog or schematics.
Re: New question to an Old Thread
So i finally started chasing down the neutral switch wire, but it seems to be in a plug interface. I was trying to pinpoint the Diode in question, but I don't seem to see one. I was looking for a square diode closer to the recitfier right?
- Wilcoy02
- Posts: 1212
- Joined: Sun Nov 21, 2010 11:37 pm
- Location: Marengo, Ohio
- Motorcycle: 1983 GL1100 I purchased 3/16
1983 GL1100I frame with an 80 engine. poor boy installed with C-5 ignition--DIED in Grande Prairie Alberta Canada 8/15
98 valkyrie sold 8/16
Re: New question to an Old Thread
You need to go to the right of the branch of wires. Mine was toward the air intake box.
Re: New question to an Old Thread
I found the diode. I pulled it out, and was expecting to see the neutral light to go off, and it didn’t. Is it supposed to if I pull the diode?
Re: New question to an Old Thread
Please disregard earlier post. I did continuity test and there was no continuity.
Re: New question to an Old Thread
Just an update to the Neutral light situation. I got a new diode, but it still did not resolve the issue, so I finally had to do the dreaded neutral switch. in the process of trying to remove it, the wire broke off,
and I remembered in another thread, WingAdmin stated that if the wire was disconnected and the Neutral light was still on, then its problem is a bad ground somewhere. If, however, the wire is disconnected and the light goes out then it's the switch...Double Damn, I have to go in and pry the frame from the engine...Holy crap, what a process. I will detail what i had to do to remove the neutral switch.
1. I've read in many different forums to use Shims to separate the frame from the engine, just enough so that the neutral switch would come out. Did not work for me. what I had to do, is tap the bottom bolt inward toward the engine block and then take flathead screwdriver with a wider shaft and tap that between frame tube and the engine, that the bolt goes thru.
2. next had to get the switch out and determine what would be the best direction and orientation to get it out. could not bring it forward, due to the engine shape so I had to look to the rear of the engine and found the backplate with a filter located inside, and removed it.
once I took the cover off, I could get the bad switch out. I ordered a new OEM switch on eBay, but that sucker was 50 bucks...oh well. I really hope this helps someone who is trying to accomplish this, it's an ass-kicker. Oh, I thought I had drained all the oil, but when I took the cover off, it was like a waterfall....
and I remembered in another thread, WingAdmin stated that if the wire was disconnected and the Neutral light was still on, then its problem is a bad ground somewhere. If, however, the wire is disconnected and the light goes out then it's the switch...Double Damn, I have to go in and pry the frame from the engine...Holy crap, what a process. I will detail what i had to do to remove the neutral switch.
1. I've read in many different forums to use Shims to separate the frame from the engine, just enough so that the neutral switch would come out. Did not work for me. what I had to do, is tap the bottom bolt inward toward the engine block and then take flathead screwdriver with a wider shaft and tap that between frame tube and the engine, that the bolt goes thru.
2. next had to get the switch out and determine what would be the best direction and orientation to get it out. could not bring it forward, due to the engine shape so I had to look to the rear of the engine and found the backplate with a filter located inside, and removed it.
once I took the cover off, I could get the bad switch out. I ordered a new OEM switch on eBay, but that sucker was 50 bucks...oh well. I really hope this helps someone who is trying to accomplish this, it's an ass-kicker. Oh, I thought I had drained all the oil, but when I took the cover off, it was like a waterfall....

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