Pre Carb Rebuild Questions


Information and questions on GL1100 Goldwings (1980-1983)
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lake_harley
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Location: Uniontown, MO
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Pre Carb Rebuild Questions

Post by lake_harley » Tue Feb 26, 2019 9:44 am



After getting over 6 years of riding on a "make-do" carb cleaning and checking when resurrecting my '83 Interstate, I am facing pulling the carbs again. Last start-up of the bike last Fall resulted in a badly flooding carb so I know I have a float needle/seat issue of some sort. Generally the bike had run fine but this is a must-do repair.

I know the rebuild kit(s) many swear by is the one from Randakk. At over $200 that's a tough price to swallow and it doesn't include float needles and seats. It would be especially tough to spend the money knowing that I have an issue with parts that are not included and might need replacing. Can anyone speak from experience on the quality (or the lack of it) of carb kits from other sources like Bike Bandit or others?

BTW....I'm not bashing Randakk's parts or prices but I'd like to get the carbs lined out without spending more than necessity.

Lynn



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RBGERSON
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had every year from 75 to 83

Re: Pre Carb Rebuild Questions

Post by RBGERSON » Tue Feb 26, 2019 10:14 am

HAD LOTS OF GOLDWING 75-83
NOW INTO 1500'S..RIDING A 1998 SE

FAIR WINDS,
RB

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Maz
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Re: Pre Carb Rebuild Questions

Post by Maz » Tue Feb 26, 2019 1:42 pm

It's worth removing the carbs first and checking the floats, needles and seats as they will likely only need cleaning. No point in paying for these items unless you need them, whereas the seals, o-rings , gaskets etc will almost definitely need replacing.
Maz
Ironically, Common Sense is the LEAST common of all senses!

lake_harley
Posts: 65
Joined: Mon Jan 25, 2010 7:06 pm
Location: Uniontown, MO
Motorcycle: GL1100

Re: Pre Carb Rebuild Questions

Post by lake_harley » Tue Feb 26, 2019 2:05 pm

Thanks for the replies and suggestions. I do have time to get this done, so I think I'll pull and disassemble the carbs to evaluate just what parts I need to replace, and which will suffice with a good cleaning. I followed the link to NGW and found the article on carb kit comparison. LOTS of info there for sure. I think it would take a couple careful readings to absorb everything.

Thanks!

Lynn

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newday777
Posts: 1048
Joined: Tue Jan 11, 2011 5:21 pm
Location: Milford NH summer and fall Oceanside, CA winters(N San Diego) with lots of miles riden between
Motorcycle: 2008 Cabernet Red. Level 4

1983 GL1100A Wineberry 36,000 miles

1975 CB750 K5 Planet Blue 7,800 miles

1976 CB750 K6 Anterris Red 25,000 miles

Past rides
1999A Restored and sold at 19,000 miles

1999SE Totaled by cager at 105,000 miles

Re: Pre Carb Rebuild Questions

Post by newday777 » Wed Feb 27, 2019 7:35 am

Hmm. NGW site says the topic doesn't exist????

Float needles should always be replaced with the seats as sets.

Yes, buy the brass parts like the needle sets from Honda.

I've tried to go cheap on my first carb kit experience on my 83 GL1100 and had leaks galore from gaskets to float needle sets. I put in Randakks master kit after that experience. No more leak problems.
I've heard good reports of the K&L carb kits but haven't tried them.
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newday777
Posts: 1048
Joined: Tue Jan 11, 2011 5:21 pm
Location: Milford NH summer and fall Oceanside, CA winters(N San Diego) with lots of miles riden between
Motorcycle: 2008 Cabernet Red. Level 4

1983 GL1100A Wineberry 36,000 miles

1975 CB750 K5 Planet Blue 7,800 miles

1976 CB750 K6 Anterris Red 25,000 miles

Past rides
1999A Restored and sold at 19,000 miles

1999SE Totaled by cager at 105,000 miles

Re: Pre Carb Rebuild Questions

Post by newday777 » Wed Feb 27, 2019 8:03 am

Lynn

The Randakks master kit has everything you'll need other than float needle sets. The cheaper kits don't come with the accelerator pump or the air cutoffs, both which are usually needed, and are expensive from Honda if you find are cracked, (are at $60.55 x 4=$242 for the air cut offs alone) and the accl pump is discontinued from Honda.

Yes these carbs are expensive to properly rebuild, but done right and stored properly will last far longer than going cheap and not let you down miles from home.

Also, pull the float out of the fuel tank and clean and inspect the tank for rust and if needed, do an electrolysis rust removal followed with a fogging of Marvel Mystery Oil to prevent flash rusting.

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RBGERSON
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Joined: Tue Mar 09, 2010 7:57 am
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had every year from 75 to 83

Re: Pre Carb Rebuild Questions

Post by RBGERSON » Wed Feb 27, 2019 9:48 am

HAD LOTS OF GOLDWING 75-83
NOW INTO 1500'S..RIDING A 1998 SE

FAIR WINDS,
RB

hrobinson
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Joined: Tue Mar 26, 2013 3:23 am
Location: Riverside, California
Motorcycle: 1982 Gl1100

Re: Pre Carb Rebuild Questions

Post by hrobinson » Thu Mar 07, 2019 1:14 pm

I have bought two of Randakk's kits. Yes its an investment but if you are going to do it correctly with seals using the correct materials, Randakk's kits are the best there is. Each needle and seat will cost you 15 dollars for each carb which I purchaced from Honda. Randakk also has a video covering the carb rebuild process. It might be worth purchasing as well. It covers the 1000 carb but the 1000 and the 1100 carb are similar. I bought the video and it was very comprehensive and worth the money.

lake_harley
Posts: 65
Joined: Mon Jan 25, 2010 7:06 pm
Location: Uniontown, MO
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Re: Pre Carb Rebuild Questions

Post by lake_harley » Fri Mar 22, 2019 7:13 pm

I finally pulled the carbs, disassembled and cleaned the parts. Really didn't find any particular issues other than what appeared to be a tiny piece of what I suspect as something from inside the fuel line. I replaced the fuel line and filter, blew everything out with compressed air and reassembled the whole works. Bike started and ran just fine but I still had a leak at the rear carb on the right side (#3?) and it appeared similar to the issue that started this all......a suspected failure of that carb's needle and seat to do it's job.

With some further investigation it appeared the problem might have been a hose clamp not clamping the fuel line tight enough on the fuel inlet "tube". I replaced the clamp, but still a leak if I ever-so-slightly wiggled the flexible fuel line at the carb. It appears to me that the fuel inlet tube (brass?) is pressed into the carb body. There's no retainer clip or anything so I guess it's just the press fit that provides the seal.

Has anyone had a similar issue? I'm considering various fixes, the first being to try a small bead of J-B Weld where the inlet tube enters the carb body. Honestly, I don't have very high hopes of that being successful, but I figure it's worth a try. The better option would likely require pulling the cars again (argh!) and I would plan to pull out the brass tube, find or make a tube with 1/16" NPT thread and then tap the hole in the carb body. Finding 1/16" NPT fittings might prove very difficult, but I'm almost certain they're out there.

I'm open to suggestions, hopefully short of replacing the carb rack ;) , if anyone else has any experience with such a problem.

Thanks, in advance.

Lynn

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newday777
Posts: 1048
Joined: Tue Jan 11, 2011 5:21 pm
Location: Milford NH summer and fall Oceanside, CA winters(N San Diego) with lots of miles riden between
Motorcycle: 2008 Cabernet Red. Level 4

1983 GL1100A Wineberry 36,000 miles

1975 CB750 K5 Planet Blue 7,800 miles

1976 CB750 K6 Anterris Red 25,000 miles

Past rides
1999A Restored and sold at 19,000 miles

1999SE Totaled by cager at 105,000 miles

Re: Pre Carb Rebuild Questions

Post by newday777 » Sat Mar 23, 2019 6:54 am

Lynn
The inlet is pressed in.
I have not read of any leaking in the past 10 years of working on these and being on the forums.
JB weld might do it.

Do you shut off the petcock every time you shut the bike off? Honda recommends that it be done and I've found it is best to do so to prevent siphoning the tank of gas into the crankcase and now this leak of yours added into the mix.

lake_harley
Posts: 65
Joined: Mon Jan 25, 2010 7:06 pm
Location: Uniontown, MO
Motorcycle: GL1100

Re: Pre Carb Rebuild Questions

Post by lake_harley » Sat Mar 23, 2019 7:26 am

Thanks. I expected it was pressed in. I'm going to give the JB Weld a shot. I'll clean the area with MEK and then let the JB Weld cure at least 24 hours. I do religiously turn the petcock off every time I get off the bike even if it's just to go into a convenience store to pay for gas.

The leak is so slight now that riding down the road the air moving would evaporate the gas as quickly as it seeps out, but I'd hate to get out on the road and have it get worse. Buddy Holly's "Great Balls of Fire" comes to mind. :o

Lynn



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