Water pump cover questions

[johnny42]

When I removed the cover, it appears as if the last mechanic that touched this used some sort of sealer at this connection. The O-Ring seemed flat (I suspect he did not use a new one) and the "packing material" was kind of brittle. I could flake off little bits here and there. I doubt it was vaseline since there was nothing "wet". Totally dried. I was able to get the old ring out but the channel was filled with this hard brittle stuff. I was able to scrape most of it away.

The pump side of the connection still appears to have some sort of residue on the mating surface. Any opinions on how to remove it. Someone suggested acetone or nail polish remover. I ordered a new O-Ring to use when I re-attach the water pump cover.

Upon reassembly, any opinions on what to use as a lubricant? Should I also use some sort of sealant?

1983 Goldwing Interstate. I'm the original owner. Many years ago, I had the timing belts changed. That was the last mechanic that touched this bike. I can't believe the factory would have assembled the 2 parts that way.

[Aussie81Interstate]

If it has never been off before - and an original it is probably some gasket cement used. I would think at some time it may have been removed for repair/replacement- and if a new O ring was not available then a simple matter of using some sealer - paint both sides - wait till tacky - then press together. You could also use RTV - same process -put it on both sides - wait till it goes off (maybe 24 hours) then re-assemble. The RTV is supposed to go hard but remain pliable, so when bolting together it will form a seal - if it is put together straight away it can result in a thinner seal because the excess gets squeezed out which can then sometimes leak.

[OldguyGlen]

Here's a guess... Mechanic decided to remove radiator, to facilitate timing belt replacement. Rather than fight the lower hose connection (it can be a challenge) he removed the water pump cover along with the hose. Then used the "cheap" technique of using sealant rather than new O-ring at re-assembly.
New O-rings don't need any sealant. But I usually use Vaseline to help hold them in the groove while lining up the parts at re-assembly.

[johnny42]

That's exactly what I think he did. I replaced my belts this weekend after removing the radiator the way you described. I want to make sure the parts go together properly to ensure it doesn't leak at that point. I want to give it the best shot I can, thus asking for info on cleaning both halves and whether to use any sealer.

btw: (and not wanting to start a "what oil" discussion), while researching this I found many folks saying vaseline will eventually compromise rubber parts. But many say they use it as well.

[OldguyGlen]

I agree, let's not start a "which oil" argument. But here's my $0.02 worth anyway. Oil and rubber don't get along. But automotive type O-rings aren't rubber. (as in sap from a rubber tree) Today's O-rings are made of many materials, generally categorized as polymers, or linked hydrocarbons. You can use a silicone based, or water based, lube if you prefer, but I have always used Vaseline. Having clean mating surfaces is a much more important key to success here.

[WingAdmin]

There should not be any sealant in there at all - just O-rings.

It's very easy to roll those seals when putting the water pump back in. You can use vaseline, or my favorite method - just spray some silicone on the O-ring and in the receiving area. It dries fast, and everything slips right into place easily with no residue.

[johnny42]

Here's photos. Acetone did not touch the stuff on the bike side. I think the cover side is clean now. I'd rather use a chemical remover instead of a mechanical remover so as not to "deform" the bike side mating surface. Can anyone recommend a product?

[WingAdmin]

I would use a fine grit sandpaper over top of a very hard, straight block (like a steel block). That will ensure that any material removed keeps the surface flat and at a 90 degree angle. It shouldn't take much to take down that pitting. Then a fresh gasket torqued down properly should seal right up.

[johnny42]

I ended up using a flat grinding stone suggested in another forum. It worked great. The bike side surface was smooth but still stained. Buttoned everything up, filled the radiator and ran it for maybe 15-20 minutes. No leaks so far. Not being able to double-check the fan wire connection at that point, I was ecstatic when the fan started blowing!! I was certain I re-connected it, but I have a tendency to question myself a bit too much.