starter clutch


Information and questions on GL1100 Goldwings (1980-1983)
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User avatar
Chewy
Posts: 249
Joined: Thu Apr 18, 2019 11:07 pm
Location: Readyville, TN United States
Motorcycle: 1980 1100i Interstate
1983 1100a Aspencade

starter clutch

Post by Chewy »



1980 GL1100

Alright guys. I tried the MMO trick, didn't work for me. I bit the bullet and began taking her apart. I came across numerous rusted bolts, it is 39 years old. This is my first time EVER working on a motorcycle, so wish me luck.

I do have a question though:
Would the starter clutch from a GL1000 fit my GL1100?
If not, can i have a machinist drill the three small holes like the 1000s had?

Another thing: I put new brake pads on the front and vac swapped the fluid, but it is still soft. There is no air in the lines. What would cause this?


User avatar
Chewy
Posts: 249
Joined: Thu Apr 18, 2019 11:07 pm
Location: Readyville, TN United States
Motorcycle: 1980 1100i Interstate
1983 1100a Aspencade

Re: starter clutch

Post by Chewy »

I intend to take pictures and post them.
User avatar
DenverWinger
Posts: 1939
Joined: Thu Jun 23, 2011 2:20 pm
Location: Denver, CO
Motorcycle: (s)
1980 GL1100 STD Vetter (2005-)
1993 GL1500 Aspencade (2017-)
1983 Trav-Lite Camper (2010-)
Past rides
1972 CL350 (1980-1988) sold
1978 Suzuki GS550 (1985-2005) sold
1977 GL1000 (2002-2006) sold

Re: starter clutch

Post by DenverWinger »

A couple notes on engine removal and rear cover removal:

To remove engine, carburetors do not have to come out. Simply disconnect the intake tubes at the cylinder heads, lift the entire rack up into the frame and tie it up there.

The snap ring holding the U-Joint to the output shaft is a %)*%#&#@. Requires patience and a beer. Accessible (barely) thru the rubber boot between swingarm and engine.

Don't forget to drain the oil.

Put a floor jack under the engine before removing the left lower frame section. Once all is disconnected and the frame section removed the engine can come out. You can do it yourself with the jack, but best to have a buddy come by to assist. Buddy might cost you another beer though. Engine comes out easy enough, careful not to hit the vacuum advance unit on the back of the engine while removing it. (bent mine).

On removing the rear cover, if you think you've drained all the oil, you haven't. There's about a half quart that doesn't drain still in the back of the engine. Try tipping the engine block on it's nose to see if you can get the oil out the drain plug, otherwise it will surprise you when the rear cover comes off.

The transmission output shaft might come out with the rear cover, or simply fall out of the engine. You haven't broken anything, simply stick it back in the engine.

With the cover off, this is a perfect time for visual inspection of the alternator stator. Check for burned insulation (shellac) on the windings. Even if the alternator has been working good, burnt winding insulation is a sign of impending failure. But if all looks good, don't worry about it.

Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly. Balance the engine on your floor jack and roll it back into the bike. Buddy recommended again (another beer for the buddy). Watch the vacuum advance unit. Don't forget to save a beer for the %#*#@% U-Joint snap ring. Doesn't hurt to slather a little moly paste on the splines before you reconnect the drive shaft.

Don't forget pictures!

As to the brakes, try pulling the brake lever nice and tight, then secure it to the hand grip with a zip tie, wrap wire around it, or duct tape or something for a day or two (while you are working on the starter clutch). Might do wonders!
♫ 99 Little Bugs in the Code, ♪
♪ 99 Bugs in the Code. ♫ :(
♫ Take one down, Patch it around, ♪
♫ 127 Little Bugs in the Code. ♫ ♪ :shock:

~Mark
User avatar
Chewy
Posts: 249
Joined: Thu Apr 18, 2019 11:07 pm
Location: Readyville, TN United States
Motorcycle: 1980 1100i Interstate
1983 1100a Aspencade

Re: starter clutch

Post by Chewy »

DenverWinger wrote: Sat Apr 27, 2019 6:37 am A couple notes on engine removal and rear cover removal:

To remove engine, carburetors do not have to come out. Simply disconnect the intake tubes at the cylinder heads, lift the entire rack up into the frame and tie it up there.

The snap ring holding the U-Joint to the output shaft is a %)*%#&#@. Requires patience and a beer. Accessible (barely) thru the rubber boot between swingarm and engine.

Don't forget to drain the oil.

Put a floor jack under the engine before removing the left lower frame section. Once all is disconnected and the frame section removed the engine can come out. You can do it yourself with the jack, but best to have a buddy come by to assist. Buddy might cost you another beer though. Engine comes out easy enough, careful not to hit the vacuum advance unit on the back of the engine while removing it. (bent mine).

On removing the rear cover, if you think you've drained all the oil, you haven't. There's about a half quart that doesn't drain still in the back of the engine. Try tipping the engine block on it's nose to see if you can get the oil out the drain plug, otherwise it will surprise you when the rear cover comes off.

The transmission output shaft might come out with the rear cover, or simply fall out of the engine. You haven't broken anything, simply stick it back in the engine.

With the cover off, this is a perfect time for visual inspection of the alternator stator. Check for burned insulation (shellac) on the windings. Even if the alternator has been working good, burnt winding insulation is a sign of impending failure. But if all looks good, don't worry about it.

Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly. Balance the engine on your floor jack and roll it back into the bike. Buddy recommended again (another beer for the buddy). Watch the vacuum advance unit. Don't forget to save a beer for the %#*#@% U-Joint snap ring. Doesn't hurt to slather a little moly paste on the splines before you reconnect the drive shaft.

Don't forget pictures!

As to the brakes, try pulling the brake lever nice and tight, then secure it to the hand grip with a zip tie, wrap wire around it, or duct tape or something for a day or two (while you are working on the starter clutch). Might do wonders!
Thanks for the info. I'll try tying the brake lever back. About right I got a 12 pack and a buddy lined up to help me out. 😎
User avatar
Chewy
Posts: 249
Joined: Thu Apr 18, 2019 11:07 pm
Location: Readyville, TN United States
Motorcycle: 1980 1100i Interstate
1983 1100a Aspencade

Re: starter clutch

Post by Chewy »

DenverWinger wrote: Sat Apr 27, 2019 6:37 am A couple notes on engine removal and rear cover removal:

To remove engine, carburetors do not have to come out. Simply disconnect the intake tubes at the cylinder heads, lift the entire rack up into the frame and tie it up there.

The snap ring holding the U-Joint to the output shaft is a %)*%#&#@. Requires patience and a beer. Accessible (barely) thru the rubber boot between swingarm and engine.

Don't forget to drain the oil.

Put a floor jack under the engine before removing the left lower frame section. Once all is disconnected and the frame section removed the engine can come out. You can do it yourself with the jack, but best to have a buddy come by to assist. Buddy might cost you another beer though. Engine comes out easy enough, careful not to hit the vacuum advance unit on the back of the engine while removing it. (bent mine).

On removing the rear cover, if you think you've drained all the oil, you haven't. There's about a half quart that doesn't drain still in the back of the engine. Try tipping the engine block on it's nose to see if you can get the oil out the drain plug, otherwise it will surprise you when the rear cover comes off.

The transmission output shaft might come out with the rear cover, or simply fall out of the engine. You haven't broken anything, simply stick it back in the engine.

With the cover off, this is a perfect time for visual inspection of the alternator stator. Check for burned insulation (shellac) on the windings. Even if the alternator has been working good, burnt winding insulation is a sign of impending failure. But if all looks good, don't worry about it.

Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly. Balance the engine on your floor jack and roll it back into the bike. Buddy recommended again (another beer for the buddy). Watch the vacuum advance unit. Don't forget to save a beer for the %#*#@% U-Joint snap ring. Doesn't hurt to slather a little moly paste on the splines before you reconnect the drive shaft.

Don't forget pictures!

As to the brakes, try pulling the brake lever nice and tight, then secure it to the hand grip with a zip tie, wrap wire around it, or duct tape or something for a day or two (while you are working on the starter clutch). Might do wonders!
The snap ring came out before i could take the second sip of beer.
The PO said he replaced the stator 2 years ago, it looks very clean and shiny after some brake cleaner.
Tying the Brake lever back for 2 days did nothing. I pulled the reservoir off and the whole inside was severely corroded, so i just ordered a new one.

One question i have:

Is there a good place to get the handle grips? mine are in desperate need of replacement.
User avatar
DenverWinger
Posts: 1939
Joined: Thu Jun 23, 2011 2:20 pm
Location: Denver, CO
Motorcycle: (s)
1980 GL1100 STD Vetter (2005-)
1993 GL1500 Aspencade (2017-)
1983 Trav-Lite Camper (2010-)
Past rides
1972 CL350 (1980-1988) sold
1978 Suzuki GS550 (1985-2005) sold
1977 GL1000 (2002-2006) sold

Re: starter clutch

Post by DenverWinger »

Tried Cyclemax.com yet?

........ Maybe I need a better set of snap ring pliers.... I didn't mind the beer though.. :lol:
♫ 99 Little Bugs in the Code, ♪
♪ 99 Bugs in the Code. ♫ :(
♫ Take one down, Patch it around, ♪
♫ 127 Little Bugs in the Code. ♫ ♪ :shock:

~Mark
User avatar
Chewy
Posts: 249
Joined: Thu Apr 18, 2019 11:07 pm
Location: Readyville, TN United States
Motorcycle: 1980 1100i Interstate
1983 1100a Aspencade

Re: starter clutch

Post by Chewy »

DenverWinger wrote: Sat May 04, 2019 10:48 pm Tried Cyclemax.com yet?

........ Maybe I need a better set of snap ring pliers.... I didn't mind the beer though.. :lol:
I didnt mind the Dos Equis. The snap ring pliers are a cheap set from O'rielly. I did pull the boot forward, instead of backward, and tied it in place. gave me more room. I also used a head mounted led light.
I did look at Cyclemax, but i just want a cheap set to get the bike on the road. I also need to fix the trans in the girlfriends 02 exploder, 3rd gear band is broken.
User avatar
DenverWinger
Posts: 1939
Joined: Thu Jun 23, 2011 2:20 pm
Location: Denver, CO
Motorcycle: (s)
1980 GL1100 STD Vetter (2005-)
1993 GL1500 Aspencade (2017-)
1983 Trav-Lite Camper (2010-)
Past rides
1972 CL350 (1980-1988) sold
1978 Suzuki GS550 (1985-2005) sold
1977 GL1000 (2002-2006) sold

Re: starter clutch

Post by DenverWinger »

Chewy wrote: Sun May 05, 2019 7:35 am I also need to fix the trans in the girlfriends 02 exploder, 3rd gear band is broken.
That sounds like a whole bunch more fun than pulling a 'Wing engine... Prolly need a whole CASE of Dos Equis for that!
♫ 99 Little Bugs in the Code, ♪
♪ 99 Bugs in the Code. ♫ :(
♫ Take one down, Patch it around, ♪
♫ 127 Little Bugs in the Code. ♫ ♪ :shock:

~Mark
User avatar
Chewy
Posts: 249
Joined: Thu Apr 18, 2019 11:07 pm
Location: Readyville, TN United States
Motorcycle: 1980 1100i Interstate
1983 1100a Aspencade

Re: starter clutch

Post by Chewy »

DenverWinger wrote: Sun May 05, 2019 7:51 am
Chewy wrote: Sun May 05, 2019 7:35 am I also need to fix the trans in the girlfriends 02 exploder, 3rd gear band is broken.
That sounds like a whole bunch more fun than pulling a 'Wing engine... Prolly need a whole CASE of Dos Equis for that!
more than likely my friend Jack Daniels will help me out.


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