1983 GL1100 Aspencade front brake pads


Information and questions on GL1100 Goldwings (1980-1983)
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ptrumblejr
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Motorcycle: 1983 Honda Goldwing GL1100A Aspencade

1983 GL1100 Aspencade front brake pads

Post by ptrumblejr »



i bought 3 sets of pads for my Aspencade under the information that both front and rear calipers use the same pad. I started with stand alone LH caliper and it wont go back over the rotor with the pads on. Even if i got it to go it would be so tight that i dont think the wheel would turn. i bought ECCPP brand pads 16949. i rebuilt the caliper so the pistons are completely compressed.

Help Please


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Overdog
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Re: 1983 GL1100 Aspencade front brake pads

Post by Overdog »

The Aspencades take a different pad than the Interstate and standard...perhaps you have the wrong pads?
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bruce swaybill
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Re: 1983 GL1100 Aspencade front brake pads

Post by bruce swaybill »

From the EBC catalog on the website:
For an 83 GW Aspencade
Front:
EBC FA69/2 organic
EBC FA69/2V semi-sintered
Rear:
EBC FA69 organic
EBC FA69/V semi-sintered
Have a nice day! :)
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crazzy450z
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Re: 1983 GL1100 Aspencade front brake pads

Post by crazzy450z »

Ok.. I'm heading down this rabbit hole.. I have a question. What material are the stock rotors made out of? Are they stainless steel??
EBC actually makes their HH (full sintered ) pads in FA69. Which would be easy enough to mill down to the 9mm thickness of the FA69/2.

bruce swaybill wrote: Tue Oct 08, 2019 10:09 pm From the EBC catalog on the website:
For an 83 GW Aspencade
Front:
EBC FA69/2 organic
EBC FA69/2V semi-sintered
Rear:
EBC FA69 organic
EBC FA69/V semi-sintered
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biguns
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Re: 1983 GL1100 Aspencade front brake pads

Post by biguns »

They are stainless steel and you want to use organics if you can because the sintered semi metallic are hard on the rotors
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crazzy450z
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Re: 1983 GL1100 Aspencade front brake pads

Post by crazzy450z »

I currently have the EBC organic pads on there, but they just don't seem to have enough bite. This think takes forever to slow down. Even with unlinked brakes with double 32mm front calipers with 16mm front master, stock 32mm rear caliper and stock rear master, and braded flex lines all around.
biguns wrote: Wed Jun 29, 2022 11:01 am They are stainless steel and you want to use organics if you can because the sintered semi metallic are hard on the rotors
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biguns
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Re: 1983 GL1100 Aspencade front brake pads

Post by biguns »

OK it sounds like you need the extra stopping power, just to be sure you need to use the stock front master cylinder or 14mm sized MC piston, sometimes original parts get changed on these old bikes and what you think came on it was replaced, also look for faulty brake lines they can bubble under pressure when the get old but look just fine by visual inspection
The reason I say is that I have used the organics and they stop pretty darn good, They arent modern bike stop power but not bad either.
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crazzy450z
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Re: 1983 GL1100 Aspencade front brake pads

Post by crazzy450z »

The front master is a 16mm from a VFR750. All the lines are new braided, so no bulging.. When I pull the front with moderate force, I have a firm lever +- 1" from the bar. If I do a full on hard pull, I can almost get the lever to about +- 1/2" from the bar.

This all stems from a incident I had yesterday, I was cruising along at a good clip in the am on the way to work. Doing about 95km/h (60mph) and the light ahead of me started to change. I was a little close, so I grabbed a hand full and foot full of full brake. Front and rear. Nothing locked up, and I actually ended up giving up halfway through the intersection. Luckily there was those few seconds between when one light goes red and the other side starts moving. So I ended up just going through.. On my way home from work I tried it a couple more times on a deserted paved back road. From 80km/h and again, it just seemed to take forever to stop. No lock up..

biguns wrote: Wed Jun 29, 2022 11:34 am OK it sounds like you need the extra stopping power, just to be sure you need to use the stock front master cylinder or 14mm sized MC piston, sometimes original parts get changed on these old bikes and what you think came on it was replaced, also look for faulty brake lines they can bubble under pressure when the get old but look just fine by visual inspection
The reason I say is that I have used the organics and they stop pretty darn good, They arent modern bike stop power but not bad either.
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biguns
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Re: 1983 GL1100 Aspencade front brake pads

Post by biguns »

That would certainly make me wanna try something else, there was a thread on naked Goldwing many years ago about brakes and cylinder sizes, it was a good read , If memory serves me right it was determined bigger then stock bore gives the piston less pressure then the the smaller bore anyways it was opposite to what you would think, I`ll see if I can find it.
By the way I was mistaken, the stock is 5/8th piston or 15.88mm
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crazzy450z
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Re: 1983 GL1100 Aspencade front brake pads

Post by crazzy450z »

It would be great to give that a read if you can find it.. Much appreciated.

The stock front master for a 83 Aspencade is 14mm, the rear is 15.8mm. I'm running a 15.8mm on the front as I have both front calipers at 32mm and the system is unlinked. This is basically the same hydraulic system as a VF1000 Interceptor. The only difference is I have a larger rear master..

The wings disks are actually larger at 296mm vs the VF1000I's at 276mm. Our Achilles heal is our weight. LOL.

biguns wrote: Wed Jun 29, 2022 12:26 pm That would certainly make me wanna try something else, there was a thread on naked Goldwing many years ago about brakes and cylinder sizes, it was a good read , If memory serves me right it was determined bigger then stock bore gives the piston less pressure then the the smaller bore anyways it was opposite to what you would think, I`ll see if I can find it.
By the way I was mistaken, the stock is 5/8th piston or 15.88mm
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Re: 1983 GL1100 Aspencade front brake pads

Post by WingAdmin »

crazzy450z wrote: Wed Jun 29, 2022 11:57 am The front master is a 16mm from a VFR750. All the lines are new braided, so no bulging.. When I pull the front with moderate force, I have a firm lever +- 1" from the bar. If I do a full on hard pull, I can almost get the lever to about +- 1/2" from the bar.

This all stems from a incident I had yesterday, I was cruising along at a good clip in the am on the way to work. Doing about 95km/h (60mph) and the light ahead of me started to change. I was a little close, so I grabbed a hand full and foot full of full brake. Front and rear. Nothing locked up, and I actually ended up giving up halfway through the intersection. Luckily there was those few seconds between when one light goes red and the other side starts moving. So I ended up just going through.. On my way home from work I tried it a couple more times on a deserted paved back road. From 80km/h and again, it just seemed to take forever to stop. No lock up..

biguns wrote: Wed Jun 29, 2022 11:34 am OK it sounds like you need the extra stopping power, just to be sure you need to use the stock front master cylinder or 14mm sized MC piston, sometimes original parts get changed on these old bikes and what you think came on it was replaced, also look for faulty brake lines they can bubble under pressure when the get old but look just fine by visual inspection
The reason I say is that I have used the organics and they stop pretty darn good, They arent modern bike stop power but not bad either.
Something's not right. With the factory brakes on the 1100, you should be able to take the front wheel right to lockup (don't do this!), so if you're coasting through an intersection because you can't get enough braking, something's definitely wrong.
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crazzy450z
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Re: 1983 GL1100 Aspencade front brake pads

Post by crazzy450z »

Continuing on from the other thread.. Can the disks get glazed and not allow the pads to bite?
I know I was carrying a fair bit of speed. And I'm no flyweight at +300lbs on top of the weight of an Aspencade at +-760lbs.

I've replaced rotors on my previous bike a 90' ZX11. It was crazy expensive, but this was also the better part of 20 years ago.
WingAdmin wrote: Wed Jun 29, 2022 1:35 pm Something's not right. With the factory brakes on the 1100, you should be able to take the front wheel right to lockup (don't do this!), so if you're coasting through an intersection because you can't get enough braking, something's definitely wrong.
WingAdmin wrote: Wed Jun 29, 2022 1:33 pm The rotors are made of very hard, high-carbon steel. They are expensive, and designed to be extremely resistant to wear, unlike conventional automotive rotors. Typically for motorcycles, you want the pads to wear, not the rotors.

Conventional automotive brake rotor lathes will not surface motorcycle rotors, as they are too hard. That's why motorcycle rotors are rarely turned.
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biguns
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Re: 1983 GL1100 Aspencade front brake pads

Post by biguns »

I dont think a glaze would effect a whole lot, they all get glazed long before the pads need replaced, also take a close look at the caliper and be sure it is dry, I once had a leak that was just enough to soak the pad but never dripped, I had the same close call only mine was a single disc up front. A paper towel and a wipe of the disc will show dust but nothing should stick to the towel
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crazzy450z
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Re: 1983 GL1100 Aspencade front brake pads

Post by crazzy450z »

The whole system including all calipers and masters where rebuilt last summer. Including new organic pads and the braded lines.
I will check tonight to be 100% sure..
biguns wrote: Wed Jun 29, 2022 4:27 pm I dont think a glaze would effect a whole lot, they all get glazed long before the pads need replaced, also take a close look at the caliper and be sure it is dry, I once had a leak that was just enough to soak the pad but never dripped, I had the same close call only mine was a single disc up front. A paper towel and a wipe of the disc will show dust but nothing should stick to the towel
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Re: 1983 GL1100 Aspencade front brake pads

Post by Rambozo »

You might want to try some OEM Honda pads. I know EBC is pretty good, but sometimes they mis the mark trying to fit too many applications with a single part number.
You should be able to lock up either end with the stock brakes. I'm wondering if your unlinking is part of the problem. You mention that the lever went to 1/2" from the bar. Is that because you ran out of grip strength or is there a travel limit problem?
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Re: 1983 GL1100 Aspencade front brake pads

Post by crazzy450z »

Ok.. So I took out the pads on the front calipers. It seems when I ordered everything from Brake Crafters.com they seem to have some wrong info on their site. They sell FA69/3 pads for the front calipers. These are 11.3mm thick instead of the proper thickness of 9mm of the FA69/2 pads. Yes they can fit over the rotors if barely.

So I can only theorize that the pistons were completely bottomed in the bores, and between the fluid not having the surface area of the bottom of the piston to act on and with the pistons bottomed out, this may have been preventing the calipers from sliding and self centering. So these issues may have been preventing me from getting full clamping power on the disks.

I milled my organic pads down to the proper 9mm thickness and reinstalled. I need to pick up some brake fluid before I test ride, as the level dropped to a point I'm not comfortable riding it. The pads will have to re bed into the disks before I can make any further tests.
WingAdmin wrote: Wed Jun 29, 2022 1:35 pm Something's not right. With the factory brakes on the 1100, you should be able to take the front wheel right to lockup (don't do this!), so if you're coasting through an intersection because you can't get enough braking, something's definitely wrong.
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crazzy450z
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Re: 1983 GL1100 Aspencade front brake pads

Post by crazzy450z »

After topping up the brake fluid, I took the bike out for a good long run this morning. About 250km total.. The organic pads are bedded in.. They feel just as firm a lever as I had previously, but it did seem to stop better.. I was able to get a couple chirp's out of the front wheel. But it did take quite a firm grip on the front lever.. There is very little initial "bite". I will probably be switching out to V2 semi stinted or HH full stinted pads. This is more of a personal feel sort of thing..
WingAdmin wrote: Wed Jun 29, 2022 1:35 pm Something's not right. With the factory brakes on the 1100, you should be able to take the front wheel right to lockup (don't do this!), so if you're coasting through an intersection because you can't get enough braking, something's definitely wrong.


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