GL1100 Turns over slowly

[J Runge]

My wing ones again, are having trouble turning over the engine.

I have given the starter an overhaul, new brushes and a solid cleaning.
While tending to the starter, I charged the battery. First couple of startups was perfect, i barely hat to grace the starterbottum and she was puring. I let her warm up at bit, and turned her off. I went in to put on my gear, so that i could go grosseryshopping and take her for at spin.
It tolk a couple of minuttes, but it was enough to make her start poorly, not cranking so fast and stopping, unless i give a bit of throttle, then she fires up nicely.

Could it be my one year old Battery that is already for retirement?

A little video of me trying to start after i came home, from a 15 minuttes run.

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I hooked the battery up to my big charger and it displayed, that the battery was only 76% charged.

The rectifire delivers 14,2 volt constantly above 2500RPM.

What am i missing?

[Rambozo]

I think it's time for a nice AGM battery.

[roadwanderer2]

You said the battery is only a year old? Do you keep it on a battery tender? To me, it appears that your battery is a little low on acid. you need to fill it up to the top lines, and the post connectors look to be a little on the corroded side. Clean them up with a toothbrush size wire brush or a battery terminal post cleaner. Take it to a parts store and have it "load tested" to see how many volts its putting out under a load. You might want to consider getting a battery with a higher cold cranking amps like I have on my 86 aspy. These older bikes draw a lot of power on start up and a low battery will cause it to crank slowly even with a brand new starter. The battery I have on my bike as over 335cca available. A "decent" battery will cost you around 120 bucks, but worth it, but beware, you have to find one that has a good warranty. Most of the stores will only offer between 90 days and a 1 year warranty. My advise, when your not using the bike, keep it on a battery tender.

Stuart, a.k.a. roadwanderer2.

[J Runge]

You said the battery is only a year old? Do you keep it on a battery tender? To me, it appears that your battery is a little low on acid. you need to fill it up to the top lines, and the post connectors look to be a little on the corroded side. Clean them up with a toothbrush size wire brush or a battery terminal post cleaner. Take it to a parts store and have it "load tested" to see how many volts its putting out under a load. You might want to consider getting a battery with a higher cold cranking amps like I have on my 86 aspy. These older bikes draw a lot of power on start up and a low battery will cause it to crank slowly even with a brand new starter. The battery I have on my bike as over 335cca available. A "decent" battery will cost you around 120 bucks, but worth it, but beware, you have to find one that has a good warranty. Most of the stores will only offer between 90 days and a 1 year warranty. My advise, when your not using the bike, keep it on a battery tender.

Stuart, a.k.a. roadwanderer2.

All cells are submerged, so topping Up probably would not do much off a difference.
I have not idea how many cca this battery can deliver, I can not Seem to find a datasheet on it.
I have considdered a yuasa battery, it can deliver 260 cca at -18°C.

I ride a least once a week, and none of my previous bikes had these problems.

I think i Will start with a load test, and see how that goes. My best bet is that the battery is done. I Will never buy Delo again. It is my second one, that does not get me All the way through the session. First one was covered by the waranty

[J Runge]

I think it's time for a nice AGM battery.

Does AGM need modified chargingsystem?

[roadwanderer2]

Check this link. This is the battery I have on my 86 Aspy SEi...........https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/po ... ies&pos=12

Notice the cca on it. These older wings need this kind of power at start up. As long as your stator and Alternator are functioning properly, you shouldn't have any problems. Only drawback is these batteries only last a year and a few months. I strongly recommend getting a battery tender and keeping the battery on it when your not using the bike.

I have this tender wired directly onto my battery...........https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/ba ... nder&pos=4

After not starting my bike up for the last 3 months, with the tender connected, I turned the key on, pressed the starter button and the bike fired right up on the first shot. Im sure my battery would have been dead without it, and my battery is almost 1 1/2 years old.

Stuart, a.k.a. roadwanderer2.

[Rambozo]

I think it's time for a nice AGM battery.

Does AGM need modified chargingsystem?

Nope, just drop it in and be amazed at how well it starts.

[J Runge]

I think it's time for a nice AGM battery.

Does AGM need modified chargingsystem?

Nope, just drop it in and be amazed at how well it starts.

Check this link. This is the battery I have on my 86 Aspy SEi...........https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/po ... ies&pos=12

Notice the cca on it. These older wings need this kind of power at start up. As long as your stator and Alternator are functioning properly, you shouldn't have any problems. Only drawback is these batteries only last a year and a few months. I strongly recommend getting a battery tender and keeping the battery on it when your not using the bike.

I have this tender wired directly onto my battery...........https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/ba ... nder&pos=4

After not starting my bike up for the last 3 months, with the tender connected, I turned the key on, pressed the starter button and the bike fired right up on the first shot. Im sure my battery would have been dead without it, and my battery is almost 1 1/2 years old.

Stuart, a.k.a. roadwanderer2.

Looks like im going to find myself an agm battery. I have a tender, which I use frequently, but not every time. I drive on a regulally basis, so it should not be nessacery to charge All the time

[J Runge]

Got some bonus info. I decided to test the acid with my refraktometer. 3 of the cells were below fair. I think it is safe to say, that the battery is junk

[roadwanderer2]

Yup, that battery is toast. My battery IS an AGM battery, and I plug it into my tender every time I come back from a ride because mine has the onboard computer and trip command which is always on due to the clock running, so its best that mine stays on the tender whenever im not using it. Yours might not need to be on it constantly because yours isn't computerized. Anyways, good luck with your battery hunting, and remember check all the stores for their warranty before you make the purchase.

Stuart, a.k.a. roadwanderer2.

[J Runge]

Yup, that battery is toast. My battery IS an AGM battery, and I plug it into my tender every time I come back from a ride because mine has the onboard computer and trip command which is always on due to the clock running, so its best that mine stays on the tender whenever im not using it. Yours might not need to be on it constantly because yours isn't computerized. Anyways, good luck with your battery hunting, and remember check all the stores for their warranty before you make the purchase.

Stuart, a.k.a. roadwanderer2.

Thank you very much

[J Runge]

does any of you have any experience with this battery
https://bs-battery.com/btx20hl-sla-max/

[dingdong]

That particular battery is physically smaller than original. You need a YTX24HL. I have no knowledge of that brand.

[J Runge]

Slightly smaller, but more ah an cca.

[J Runge]

Went by the shop, the terminals didnt fit. I Will keep looking. Probably going to order it online from somewhere

[roadwanderer2]

Personally, I would not purchase a battery that has less than 320 CCA. These older wings draw so much power at start up than the newer more electronic controlled bikes out there, and thats when you need the extra cranking amperage. You might find that if you do buy one thats less than 300 CCA, you might get slower engine starts and dragging starters which could prematurely burn your stater out and maybe burn out your starter solenoid/fuse or create other damaging electrical problems.

Go for the highest cranking amp battery you can find thats within your budget.

Stuart, a.k.a.roadwanderer2.

[dingdong]

Slightly smaller, but more ah an cca.

Just recommending the correct size. There are many good quality AGM batteries that fit that will meet your CCA requirements. Ride safe.

[J Runge]

Slightly smaller, but more ah an cca.

Just recommending the correct size. There are many good quality AGM batteries that fit that will meet your CCA requirements. Ride safe.

I know, I went by the shop yesterday, and it didn't because the terminals where to close together, due to the slightly smaller battery. In sted I got a EXIDE ETX24HL-BS. Fits perfectly, can't wait to try it

[J Runge]

Hi
The new exide is great. Have hat some nice rides in december, january and february. Today the family and I went out for a spin, in seach of some dinner. We make a Short pit stop to get directions from our map, and afterwards the MOTH********* Wing barely cranks the engine over. Suddenly IT comes to life and of we go.
We find the restaurant, but it had not openned yet, so er Jump back om the bikes, same struggle, but finally it gives in and starts. We drive around enjoying the scenery for about 45 minutters, and return to the restaurant. A bit worried, I turn off the wing, and we go have our dinner.
After dinner, I approach the teasing bike, it is on its sidestand, handlebars turn all the way to the left. I squint my eyes as I push the starter, and it starts up fine. Hmmmmmm, something fishy is going om, so I Mount the bike turns the bike off, and try again, it wont start, I turn the handlebars all the way to the left, and try again, it fires right up, as i grace the starterbutton.

I suspect I have at faulty Wire, or a bad connection. Any Idea where to start my search????

[OldguyGlen]

Slow cranking is often from trouble in the power wiring / components like battery, starter motor and heavy cables & connections. But, turning the bars full left would not affect any of that. So, I'm guessing the slow cranking is due to loss of ignition. With no help whatsoever from the plugs, it cranks slow. Turning the bars could affect some wiring connections feeding the ignition modules located on the left side under the shelter. Get a test meter and check for voltages at the modules, and watch closely while you twist the bars left/right. If they are intermittent then start tracing back through the fuse block, switches, and wiring, especially anything that appears to "move" with a twisting of the bars.

[J Runge]

Slow cranking is often from trouble in the power wiring / components like battery, starter motor and heavy cables & connections. But, turning the bars full left would not affect any of that. So, I'm guessing the slow cranking is due to loss of ignition. With no help whatsoever from the plugs, it cranks slow. Turning the bars could affect some wiring connections feeding the ignition modules located on the left side under the shelter. Get a test meter and check for voltages at the modules, and watch closely while you twist the bars left/right. If they are intermittent then start tracing back through the fuse block, switches, and wiring, especially anything that appears to "move" with a twisting of the bars.

I Will try that