Just bought a partially disassembled 82 standard. There are parts missing but it can live again. At the least, small carb parts and air cleaner. It's going to set in the van until I finish my 91 Kawasaki Zephyr (now running good but needs more cosmetics), and chain 'n sprockets for the NC700DTS-X. In the meantime, I'll be inventoring and collecting pieces.
Battery is dead for sure, don't know about charging system but I'll find out soon. It's been down for at least 4 years (last tag says 2014) but clear title and fairly clean exterior. It came with both Honda and Clymer service manuals so that will help.
I have experience, this is my fifth Old Gold. But also the roughest. Right now just seeking advice and encouragement.
So far, brake caliper rebuild kit from All Balls failed, the dust seal is too "fat". Gonna order OEM from
PARTZILLA. Has anyone else used All Balls caliper rebuild kits successfully?
Single carb conversion ordered. Used OEM carb set ordered. Gates timing belts, Fram oil filter, and NGK Iridium plugs awaiting installation.
New battery ion hand. Engine spins, all lights work.
So far, brake caliper rebuild kit from All Balls failed, the dust seal is too "fat". Gonna order OEM from
PARTZILLA. Has anyone else used All Balls caliper rebuild kits successfully?
Single carb conversion ordered. Used OEM carb set ordered. Gates timing belts, Fram oil filter, and NGK Iridium plugs awaiting installation.
New battery ion hand. Engine spins, all lights work.
Allballs is bearing kits, not brake caliper rebuild kits.
K&L does the brake kits.
On the GL1100 brake kits, you have to look at the list of compatibility to be sure you get the correct kit for the year and which caliper, as there are many changes from 1980/81, to 1982, to 1983.
Unfortunately many listing don't show the complete listing of fitment so you have to do your homework.
So far, brake caliper rebuild kit from All Balls failed, the dust seal is too "fat". Gonna order OEM from
PARTZILLA. Has anyone else used All Balls caliper rebuild kits successfully?
Single carb conversion ordered. Used OEM carb set ordered. Gates timing belts, Fram oil filter, and NGK Iridium plugs awaiting installation.
New battery ion hand. Engine spins, all lights work.
I've dealt with this guy for 10 years now and he is fast shipping and will replace if wrong kit. His listings usually have the complete fitment list and his prices usually can't be beat.
This is his 82 gl1100 search. Be sure to look for 82 gl1100 in the fitment. GL1100I(interstate, might be the same on most brake parts). GL1100A will have different number kits.
Agree All Balls are bearing kits but these breaker kits are clearly labeled All Balls, so... Anyway, the part number listed on the rear caliper kit dust seal is different from that listed in the front caliper kit. I've sent the whole order back and ordered OEM from Partzilla.com. only a little more expensive. Kits also contained new keeper pins and bleeder bolt caps which aren't needed anyway. Thanks for your response.
Allballs is bearing kits, not brake caliper rebuild kits.
K&L does the brake kits.
On the GL1100 brake kits, you have to look at the list of compatibility to be sure you get the correct kit for the year and which caliper, as there are many changes from 1980/81, to 1982, to 1983.
Unfortunately many listing don't show the complete listing of fitment so you have to do your homework.
So far, brake caliper rebuild kit from All Balls failed, the dust seal is too "fat". Gonna order OEM from
PARTZILLA. Has anyone else used All Balls caliper rebuild kits successfully?
Single carb conversion ordered. Used OEM carb set ordered. Gates timing belts, Fram oil filter, and NGK Iridium plugs awaiting installation.
New battery ion hand. Engine spins, all lights work.
Just read Greg's Winter Project. Many great pictures and well documented refresh on his '80 GL1100. I will reference it continuously as I proceed with my 82. Today, drained the radiator and oil. Found no spring in the oil filter, spring and washer ordered. Awaiting many parts. Tomorrow, timing belts using the suggested method at this site. I did the belts on my 75 many years ago and have replaced the timing belt on several ST1100s so familiar with the process.
I'll pull the front wheel, forks, and radiator first. I like plenty of clearance.
Gonna pull the tank, based on Greg's success. Following his example just makes sense.
Received a set of carbs, timing belts, oil filter, and a sonic cleaner. Also a set of plugs, but the wrong ones.
Got the front wheel off and ran all the brake parts thru the sonic cleaner. Front end has a detent so ordering a set of head bearings. Waiting for more stuff.
Update: brake calipers are back together with OEM seals from PARTZILLA. Disassembling the carbs. Advertised as 83 but has pressed in slow speed jets. Managed to pull them using a dry wall screw. Pics to follow.
Also, #1 carb top and its piston were stuck. Had to hone the top to get the piston to fit. All good now. Anyone else seen this?
Third thing, put all the disassembled float bowl parts in the sonic cleaner. Found 2 tiny parts in the bottom when I dumped it, a tiny ball bearing and a small square brass item with a round protubance on one side. Assume rhey are from the#3 carb float bowl air cut off vale (or whatever that valve does.)
The small parts are parts from a check valve. Interesting, because my number three float bowl accelerator pump has it's check valve in place and my other set of carbs is missing it's #3 float bowl so not from there. Is there a second check valve somewhere in the system?
Cleaning the low speed jets was a PITA but they are now clean. The thru hole was plugged tight on all 4 but the side holes were okay. Floats, float bowls, and float needles all look good.
Accel pump on #3 has 2 check valves... An "In" and an "Out". They are pressed into place and generally don't come out. Maybe the PO used excessive air pressure while trying to clean it in place.
Sonic cleaning can knock them out. I just shipped an accelerator pump housing to a guy in Ireland on the Classic forum who had one come apart that way.
Took a close look at #3 float bowl and the accelerator pump cover. See no obvious hole into which the second check valve would fit. Took a couple more pics but have yet to figure out that part. Steep learning curve for this old guy.
Used the heavy wrench as pseudo slide hammer. Low speed jets pulled right out. Cleaning them was another story. [attachment=1]8375B921-1FE5-4566-9F99-5712A2C51A15.jpeg[/attachment
Didn’t know which side of the wrench to use. The screw is inch size but the jet is metric. <snark>
Thanks for the good solution to that very minor problem. Inserting now.
Just received another complete set of carbs so now have 3 sets, minus one #3 carb float bowl. Ill make at least one set work. Also have the 1 into 4 manifold but haven't received the VW carb yet.
I'll add occasional updates but don't feel it necessary to document every step. Greg did such a great job in Greg's GL1100 Winter project, all I have to do is follow his lead.
Front brake master cylinder rebuilt. My snap ring pliers worked a charm. But! To get all done I had to drive the old piston out with a ball peen hammer and a drift. It was really stuck. Cleaned everything up and reassembled with new parts. The bore was smooth so no explanation.
Old parts on the left, new parts on the right. Note the caliper assembly lube from NAPA. IVE USED IT TO COAT ALL RUBBER PARTS DURING THIS REBUILD. Makes things way more slippery than brake fluid alone. Call it KY Jelly for brakes.
Forks pulled and timing belts changed out. Used Beavers technique but with C-Clamps. Worked a charm. Idler bearings are okay. Did find the recommended “fix” bearings for $17 each at Rock Auto.
