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Information and questions on GL1100 Goldwings (1980-1983)
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Mahaflac
Posts: 12
Joined: Sat Nov 30, 2019 8:44 am
Location: Texas
Motorcycle: 83 GL 1100I
2014 GL 1800C

Help

Post by Mahaflac » Tue Dec 31, 2019 10:33 am



I recently changed my tires. I am having trouble getting clearance with the Caliper mounting bracket and the rotor. I have checked everything to make sure it is put back together correctly. This morning, I put it back on the jack to see if I could determine why it is rubbing. Book says that there should be about .007 clearance. While inspecting everything this morning, I notice what is pictured below. I have two questions.

1. Could this be the cause of the clearance issue with the Caliper mounting bracket? That is about the space needed for clearance.

2. Is this part available? Where can I get it? What is it called?





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WingAdmin
Site Admin
Posts: 20851
Joined: Fri Oct 03, 2008 4:16 pm
Location: Strongsville, OH
Motorcycle: 2000 GL1500 SE
1982 GL1100A Aspencade (sold)
1989 PC800 (sold)
1998 XV250 Virago (sold)
2012 Suzuki Burgman 400 (wife's!)
2007 Aspen Sentry Trailer

Re: Help

Post by WingAdmin » Tue Dec 31, 2019 10:36 am

That's a fork brace, you have an aftermarket one - one that I don't recognize. It's clearly cracked and failed.

You can still find fork braces for the GL1100:

https://www.randakks.com/superbrace-for ... l1200.html

Mahaflac
Posts: 12
Joined: Sat Nov 30, 2019 8:44 am
Location: Texas
Motorcycle: 83 GL 1100I
2014 GL 1800C

Re: Help

Post by Mahaflac » Tue Dec 31, 2019 10:47 am

Could that be the issue with the clearance between the rotor and the caliper mounting bracket?

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CT1100
Posts: 18
Joined: Mon Jan 20, 2014 8:43 pm
Location: Hartford, Connecticut
Motorcycle: 1983 GL1100I original owner
1985 Cycle Mate CM 1000 trailer
2006 Harley Ultra Classic
1964 Yamaha YA6

Re: Help

Post by CT1100 » Tue Dec 31, 2019 1:03 pm

That appears to be the same Honda fork brace that came on my 1983. Do an Ebay search for “GL 1100 fork brace” and quite a few are listed between $20-$40.

If you are trying to achieve a clearance of only .007 I would imagine that the crack in your brace would be causing your lower fork leg to not sit true when compared to the other side. One fork lower is straight and the other would be “toed out”

Chris

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OldguyGlen
Posts: 171
Joined: Sat Nov 24, 2018 10:55 am
Location: Mound,MN
Motorcycle: 1980 GL1100 STD/Vetters
1966 Honda 90

Re: Help

Post by OldguyGlen » Tue Dec 31, 2019 1:22 pm

Correct caliper clearances require that the tips of the forks have an exact spacing distance, relative to each other, and relative to the lateral position of the wheel/discs. The forks have enough flex or "give" to them that they can be slightly out of position as they are clamped to the axle. The fork brace can be helpful in holding the forks in position during reassembly, but the axle could be clamped in proper position, or in improper position, independently of the condition of the brace. You encountered the caliper clearance problem after replacing the tire. The fork brace was probably already cracked, but the forks were in correct position before tire removal, so the calipers were OK. The axle reassembly procedure is more than I want to reiterate here, but check the DIY section here for tire/wheel replacement articles.

Mahaflac
Posts: 12
Joined: Sat Nov 30, 2019 8:44 am
Location: Texas
Motorcycle: 83 GL 1100I
2014 GL 1800C

Re: Help

Post by Mahaflac » Tue Dec 31, 2019 11:35 pm

I have gone through the how-to on this website on how to reinstall the front wheel. There is one section that tells me to adjust the forks until I have the correct spacing between the rotor and the mounting bracket. How do you adjust the forks? I have also read the comments and someone states to push them in or out then tighten the clamp. No of this still make any sense to me. I am pretty mechanical minded but this has me stumped.

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OldguyGlen
Posts: 171
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Location: Mound,MN
Motorcycle: 1980 GL1100 STD/Vetters
1966 Honda 90

Re: Help

Post by OldguyGlen » Thu Jan 02, 2020 10:51 am

There is no specific "fork adjuster" tool or device. You just improvise. Depending upon whether that side of the fork needs to go "in" or "out", you use a wedge, prybar, clamp, lever, etc. Or try to just slightly snug the lower fork clamps, and then coax the fork in or out with a suitable drift and mallet before tightening to specified torque. Always tighten the fork clamp via front, then rear nut. Just snug them first, then final torque. And then re-check caliper clearances. For some reason they sometimes seem to move during the final tightening.
Possible problem area to also check... Did the axle go into the wheel correctly, with spacer, and axle nut torqued to spec?
The location of the interference of the caliper with the disc could be a clue as to the alignment problem. Inside or Outside indicates a need to shift the fork out or in. Interference toward the front, versus rear of the caliper indicates the fork might be twisted slightly.

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AZgl1800
Posts: 2143
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Location: Lake Oologah Indian Territory USA
Motorcycle: '02 GL1800
2009 Piaggio MP3 250cc

Re: Help

Post by AZgl1800 » Thu Jan 02, 2020 12:06 pm

that fork brace show in the pix above, is why I only buy "SuperBrace" fork braces for my bike.

they fit perfectly before you even put a bolt in them.
and they are Rock Solid, and never break.

over the years, I have had 4 of them, my current 1800 has one.
~John
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Mahaflac
Posts: 12
Joined: Sat Nov 30, 2019 8:44 am
Location: Texas
Motorcycle: 83 GL 1100I
2014 GL 1800C

Re: Help

Post by Mahaflac » Thu Jan 02, 2020 2:31 pm

OldguyGlen wrote:
Thu Jan 02, 2020 10:51 am
There is no specific "fork adjuster" tool or device. You just improvise. Depending upon whether that side of the fork needs to go "in" or "out", you use a wedge, prybar, clamp, lever, etc. Or try to just slightly snug the lower fork clamps, and then coax the fork in or out with a suitable drift and mallet before tightening to specified torque. Always tighten the fork clamp via front, then rear nut. Just snug them first, then final torque. And then re-check caliper clearances. For some reason they sometimes seem to move during the final tightening.
Possible problem area to also check... Did the axle go into the wheel correctly, with spacer, and axle nut torqued to spec?
The location of the interference of the caliper with the disc could be a clue as to the alignment problem. Inside or Outside indicates a need to shift the fork out or in. Interference toward the front, versus rear of the caliper indicates the fork might be twisted slightly.
Thank you. I guess I was trying to make it more complex than it is. This I can do. I have been thinking that the fork is slightly twisted. I will adjust that once I get the brace. Thank you again for the info.

Mahaflac
Posts: 12
Joined: Sat Nov 30, 2019 8:44 am
Location: Texas
Motorcycle: 83 GL 1100I
2014 GL 1800C

Re: Help

Post by Mahaflac » Fri Jan 03, 2020 9:10 pm

Thanks to everyone who gave advice. I put the front wheel back on today without any problems. I followed FSM guide and with just a little muscle on the right fork, it went back together perfect.

With machines that are so precisely engineered, it does not make sense to me that part of the front wheel reassembly is to move the fork by whatever means necessary to get clearance between the rotor and caliper bracket. I guess I was just trying to make it more difficult than it was. Nevertheless, she is back on the road.



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