Carburetor Leaking Fuel

[Delport79]

Hi All.
This is my first time posting, but I have learned a lot so far from the how to articles.
I have a 1983 Gl1100 that I bought recently, but I am struggling with my carburetor that is leaking fuel and lots of it.
Would appreciate any help or advise of where to start with troubleshooting.

[newday777]

Remove the carburators and totally strip them apart, ultrasonic clean them and put in a Randakks Master carb rebuild kit in, properly set up.
If it's beyond your capabilities send them to Pistol Pete's carb shop

[Delport79]

Thank you for the suggestion.
Will see if I can get my hands on a rebuild kit. The big problem is that I'm in South Africa, with very little parts available and very little expertise. Most of the bike shops refuse to work on the old bikes, but that gives me an opportunity to learn and get to know my bike better.

[OldguyGlen]

I can appreciate the challenges of service and parts difficulties in South Africa. The carbs on these bikes do need attention periodically. But most DIYers can handle it OK. This website has lots of help.
The leaking is due to the float itself, or float needle valve. An instantaneous fix is to rap on the offending carb bowl (gently) to see if the needle is just temporarily stuck. But probably you will have to remove the carb rack and investigate further. How thoroughly does the carb set need rebuilt ??? Depends on how long ago it was serviced. Was the bike unused and in storage for extend time (years ??)
Once the carb rack is out, do as much rebuild as possible to ward off future problem, and enhance the performance. A bike will "run" with some clogged ports, but will purr like a kitten with good clean carbs. You don't want to pull the carbs again to finish a half done job.
Good luck, and keep us posted.

[Delport79]

Thank you for the advice. I pulled the Carbs off the bike last night and noticed that there are fuel in the air chamber. Not sure why yet, but will start opening her up tonight.

[Maz]

Thank you for the advice. I pulled the Carbs off the bike last night and noticed that there are fuel in the air chamber. Not sure why yet, but will start opening her up tonight.

This is a sure sign of a flooding carb (due to stuck/dirty float needle or sticking float), or failed seals/gasket between carbs.
No overflow on these carbs so excess fuel builds up and floods. Be aware that it doesn't take too much excess fuel in a cylinder to hydrolock the engine. Spin it over on the starter with plugs out. Any excess will spray out of plug holes.
FIRE RISK.
Maz

[Delport79]

Thanks Maz. I am busy stripping the cards to look at the floats, seals etc. Will keep you guys posted.

[Delport79]

If Opened up the cards and I do think my floats are not set right. I have read that the measurement should be 15.5mm, but from where do I measure the 15.5mm. I know this must sound like a bumbass question, but if someone can send me some guidance on on how and where to measure that would be great.

[OldguyGlen]

Can't locate a rebuild guide article on-line that I have paper copies of. Thought I got it off a Saunders site? Here is a link to a good info article, but it's just an "extra details" type of article and not a total rebuild guide, but helpful in many ways:
https://www.randakksblog.com/gl1100-carb-details/
Pic would be better, but here's a verbal guide:
Tilt the carb (whole rack usually) up on its edge, propping it into a position where the float is swinging from open to closed, but the tang has just touched the flexible tip of the needle (not actually depressing the springy tip). Then measure 15.5 mm from the bottom of the float to the carb body (gasket surface for the bowl). Check dimension to all 4 corners of the float bottom, so the float is level, and free of any twist.
Another member might offer a pic, or link to a guide. I recommend Randakk's kits and info.
Be thorough and patient. there are many tiny ports and passages in these carbs.

[Delport79]

Thanks Glen it's a great help!!

[winguyjo]

while you are in there, put a q-tip in your drill, dip it in valve lapping compound, hand cleaner that contains pumice, toothpaste or carb cleaner and give that brass float needle seat a nice cleaning. rinse off any residue and it will be bright, shiny brass.

[Delport79]

So my carburetor is back on and no more fuel leaks, which is a win!
However she now backfires the moment I open the throttle and the reves starts climbing.
When looking into the air intake chamber it looks like the number 3 card is "spitting" back into the chamber.
Any suggestions of what might cause this?

[Delport79]

Sorry for all the questions guys, but I'm a real novice at this. I've noticed that fuel is flowing to the cards even when the bike is switched off, it then collects in the air intake chamber.
Must the fuel pump be letting fuel through even when the bike is switched off?
Is it a float issue or fuel pump issue?
I'm totally stumped. Hope someone can assist.

[newday777]

No. You have not rebuilt the carburators correctly.

Sorry for all the questions guys, but I'm a real novice at this. I've noticed that fuel is flowing to the cards even when the bike is switched off, it then collects in the air intake chamber.
Must the fuel pump be letting fuel through even when the bike is switched off?
Is it a float issue or fuel pump issue?
I'm totally stumped. Hope someone can assist.

[newday777]

Yes it could be float settings....
But more is possible....

1. What did you use for kits and what parts did you replace?
2. How far did you strip the carburators before cleaning?
3. How did you clean the carburators?

No. You have not rebuilt the carburators correctly.

Sorry for all the questions guys, but I'm a real novice at this. I've noticed that fuel is flowing to the cards even when the bike is switched off, it then collects in the air intake chamber.
Must the fuel pump be letting fuel through even when the bike is switched off?
Is it a float issue or fuel pump issue?
I'm totally stumped. Hope someone can assist.

[OldguyGlen]

Newday777 is correct... More work to do.
Fuel can flow thru the petcock, and thru the pump, to possibly flood the carbs with the bike not running. Always turn the petcock off.
To save repeated carb rack installing /removing, bench test the assembled carbs with a temporary fuel line about 4 feet long (high) to verify no leaks.
Thoroughness and patience!!!

[pidjones]

Backfire is usually caused by excess air. Check that your intake runner o-ring on that cylinder did not come out, and the runner is sealed well to the carb. Also check the diaphragm properly fitted and not torn. Also, CV carbs need the air cleaner in place to function properly.

[Delport79]

The cards were rebuilt by someone that was refurred to me by our Honda dealership, I got the
MOTOALL
MOTOALL 4 Carburetor Carb Rebuild Repair Kit for Honda GL1100 Goldwing 1100 1980-1983. It seemed fairly complete when I checked it online.
Not sure what he did, but my troubles started after he did the rebuild.
I will take the Carbs off again and go through the whole process again.
Does anyone maybe have a link to a "How To Do it yourself guide"?
And once again thank you for all the advise and guidance. Really appreciate it!
I am determined to get this right!

[Overdog]

https://ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=12168

[Delport79]

Hi All, so after I had all the issues with the leaking card I ordered a carb rebuild kit, rebuilt the card, installed it and no leaks.
I fired her up and she was running smoothly.
I took her for a test drive, but she died on me and the red light in the middle of the control panel came on.
If I press the starter button, there is a clicking sound on the starter relay, but the starter motor won't turn.
If I'm correct the red light is the oil pressure warning light, but I'm not sure.
What could cause the red light from coming on? I have checked the oil level and all seems fine?
Any suggestions?

[winguyjo]

perfectly normal for the oil pressure light to come on when an engine stalls.
since the engine is not cranking i would move over to the battery; check all connection and cables to the battery and starter for cleanliness, physical condition and tightness.
the battery should be load tested ... a reading of 12.6 volts with a voltmeter doesnt not tell the whole story. i have scrapped dozens of batteries that show 12+ volts but couldnt light up a 12v lamp. if all is good there, try wiggling the ignition switch and the kill switch while you attempt to crank.