1980 interstate neutral safety switch


Information and questions on GL1100 Goldwings (1980-1983)
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chief771
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Location: Austin, mn
Motorcycle: 1980 Goldwing GL1100
1979 suzuki GL 750

1980 interstate neutral safety switch

Post by chief771 »



Good afternoon all!
I have a question about my neutral safety switch. The neutral light stays on all the time and I can start the bike without pulling in the clutch. I figure the switch is bad but could it possibly be a diode I just read about. I dont know if that diode is on my model or not. It also looks like I have to remove the engine to change the switch? It looks to be right behind the frame.. the previous owner's fix was to put a price of black tape over the light. I guess I would like it to work properly. Call me fussy
:-)


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Kevin
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DenverWinger
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1980 GL1100 STD Vetter (2005-)
1993 GL1500 Aspencade (2017-)
1983 Trav-Lite Camper (2010-)
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1972 CL350 (1980-1988) sold
1978 Suzuki GS550 (1985-2005) sold
1977 GL1000 (2002-2006) sold

Re: 1980 interstate neutral safety switch

Post by DenverWinger »

Diode Open - N light works normally, have to pull clutch to start engine, even in Neutral.
Diode Shorted - N light comes on in neutral, off when in gear but comes on again when not in Neutral and you pull the clutch. Starter works in Neutral or clutch pulled when in gear.
Diode OKAY, Neutral switch stuck - N light always on, starts regardless of gear or clutch lever.

My Neutral switch has been stuck for years, I simply removed the bulb. Have to pull engine to get to the 1980 Neutral switch.
♫ 99 Little Bugs in the Code, ♪
♪ 99 Bugs in the Code. ♫ :(
♫ Take one down, Patch it around, ♪
♫ 127 Little Bugs in the Code. ♫ ♪ :shock:

~Mark
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chief771
Posts: 101
Joined: Fri Feb 08, 2013 2:55 am
Location: Austin, mn
Motorcycle: 1980 Goldwing GL1100
1979 suzuki GL 750

Re: 1980 interstate neutral safety switch

Post by chief771 »

Thank you Mark. I like your idea. I dont have the time or the right tools to pull the engine
Bulb will have to come out.
Thanks again!
Where ever you go, That's where you are.
Chief771
Kevin
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Chewy
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Location: Readyville, TN United States
Motorcycle: 1980 1100i Interstate
1983 1100a Aspencade

Re: 1980 interstate neutral safety switch

Post by Chewy »

chief771 wrote: Sat Apr 18, 2020 9:41 pm Thank you Mark. I like your idea. I dont have the time or the right tools to pull the engine
Bulb will have to come out.
Thanks again!
even with a small assortment of tools, pulling an engine is fairly easy. the largest nut/bolt is a 19mm, i believe.
hardest part is when you are ready to pull the engine out, make sure you do not hit the pulse generator on the frame.
if you like a beer when working on projects, have a six pack handy. average person will go through 2 of them just pulling the circlip off of the output shaft.

it is easiest to have someone there to help you out, but possible to do it solo.
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DenverWinger
Posts: 1946
Joined: Thu Jun 23, 2011 2:20 pm
Location: Denver, CO
Motorcycle: (s)
1980 GL1100 STD Vetter (2005-)
1993 GL1500 Aspencade (2017-)
1983 Trav-Lite Camper (2010-)
Past rides
1972 CL350 (1980-1988) sold
1978 Suzuki GS550 (1985-2005) sold
1977 GL1000 (2002-2006) sold

Re: 1980 interstate neutral safety switch

Post by DenverWinger »

+1 on the circlip beers. A couple bad words, too, are usually necessary to help the circlip off the output shaft. :lol:
♫ 99 Little Bugs in the Code, ♪
♪ 99 Bugs in the Code. ♫ :(
♫ Take one down, Patch it around, ♪
♫ 127 Little Bugs in the Code. ♫ ♪ :shock:

~Mark
User avatar
chief771
Posts: 101
Joined: Fri Feb 08, 2013 2:55 am
Location: Austin, mn
Motorcycle: 1980 Goldwing GL1100
1979 suzuki GL 750

Re: 1980 interstate neutral safety switch

Post by chief771 »

Thank you for the replies. I think I will drink the beers and consider the work. :-)
Where ever you go, That's where you are.
Chief771
Kevin
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WingAdmin
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Motorcycle: 2000 GL1500 SE
1982 GL1100A Aspencade (sold)
1989 PC800 (sold)
1998 XV250 Virago (sold)
2012 Suzuki Burgman 400 (wife's!)
2007 Aspen Sentry Trailer

Re: 1980 interstate neutral safety switch

Post by WingAdmin »

It could also be the neutral switch wire pinched and shorted somewhere. This is a common cause. If the wire going to the neutral switch gets pinched somewhere, and the wire gets shorted to the frame (i.e. to ground), it will cause exactly the symptoms you're describing.


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