Reviving an ‘83 GL1100A
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- Posts: 21
- Joined: Tue Aug 25, 2020 5:31 pm
- Location: Fort Worth, TX, United States
- Motorcycle: 1983 GL1100A Aspencade
Reviving an ‘83 GL1100A
Hey everybody,
I picked up an ‘83 1100A that had been sitting for at least 10 years under a carport. An initial cold compression test shows ~130 psi on all cylinders. I cleaned/rebuilt the carbs, replaced the fuel filter/hoses, adjusted valves, replaced belts/plugs, checked cam timing, and was able to fire it up. It idles well and has been synced, but noticed that #1 and #3 headers are initially hot on startup, but then quickly become cool on #1 and lukewarm on #3. I can wake them up by spraying carb cleaner down the intake.
-I have spark
-The bowls have fuel
-Number 1 & 3 plugs are wet
-Adjusted valves
-Checked cam timing
-Sprayed WD-40 around runners to check leaks
I’m not sure where to troubleshoot next, but leaning toward the pulse generator/vacuum advance. I would appreciate any suggestions — thanks.
I picked up an ‘83 1100A that had been sitting for at least 10 years under a carport. An initial cold compression test shows ~130 psi on all cylinders. I cleaned/rebuilt the carbs, replaced the fuel filter/hoses, adjusted valves, replaced belts/plugs, checked cam timing, and was able to fire it up. It idles well and has been synced, but noticed that #1 and #3 headers are initially hot on startup, but then quickly become cool on #1 and lukewarm on #3. I can wake them up by spraying carb cleaner down the intake.
-I have spark
-The bowls have fuel
-Number 1 & 3 plugs are wet
-Adjusted valves
-Checked cam timing
-Sprayed WD-40 around runners to check leaks
I’m not sure where to troubleshoot next, but leaning toward the pulse generator/vacuum advance. I would appreciate any suggestions — thanks.
- Wilcoy02
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- Motorcycle: 1983 GL1100 I purchased 3/16
1983 GL1100I frame with an 80 engine. poor boy installed with C-5 ignition--DIED in Grande Prairie Alberta Canada 8/15
98 valkyrie sold 8/16
Re: Reviving an ‘83 GL1100A
Check your vacuum lines for leaks.
- dingdong
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1993 gl1500A
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Re: Reviving an ‘83 GL1100A
If it runs after spraying carb cleaner in the intake then it is a sure bet those cylinders aren't getting fuel. Revisit your carb rebuild.
- newday777
- Posts: 2087
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- Location: Milford NH summer/fall & Oceanside, CA winters(N San Diego) with lots of miles riden between
- Motorcycle: 2008 Cabernet Red. Level 4
1983 GL1100A Wineberry 36,000 miles
1975 CB750 K5 Planet Blue 7,800 miles
1976 CB750 K6 Anterris Red 25,000 miles
Past rides
1999A Restored from PO neglect & sold at 19,000 miles
1999SE Totaled by cager at 105,000 miles
Re: Reviving an ‘83 GL1100A
Howdy Matt
From your description I too think it is your 'clean and rebuild' process and kits used.
How exactly did you 'clean the carbs'?
What rebuild kits or parts did you buy?
From your description I too think it is your 'clean and rebuild' process and kits used.
How exactly did you 'clean the carbs'?
What rebuild kits or parts did you buy?
- newday777
- Posts: 2087
- Joined: Tue Jan 11, 2011 5:21 pm
- Location: Milford NH summer/fall & Oceanside, CA winters(N San Diego) with lots of miles riden between
- Motorcycle: 2008 Cabernet Red. Level 4
1983 GL1100A Wineberry 36,000 miles
1975 CB750 K5 Planet Blue 7,800 miles
1976 CB750 K6 Anterris Red 25,000 miles
Past rides
1999A Restored from PO neglect & sold at 19,000 miles
1999SE Totaled by cager at 105,000 miles
Re: Reviving an ‘83 GL1100A
Did you replace the spark plug wires and caps with new? I had green corrosion in the plug wires on my 83. There was leakage in damp, cold ambient air.
Makes a world of difference in spark power to the plugs.
7' of bulk 7mm plug wire, cut to 19" pieces.
4 NGK spark plug caps.
Makes a world of difference in spark power to the plugs.
7' of bulk 7mm plug wire, cut to 19" pieces.
4 NGK spark plug caps.
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- Posts: 21
- Joined: Tue Aug 25, 2020 5:31 pm
- Location: Fort Worth, TX, United States
- Motorcycle: 1983 GL1100A Aspencade
Re: Reviving an ‘83 GL1100A
Thanks for the replies. As I mentioned, the bike had been sitting for 10+ years with fuel in the tank and carbs. Needless to say, it would not start and would have to have the carbs rebuilt and the hoses/filter replaced. Here’s a few pics:
I used the Randakk kit, ultrasonic cleaner, carb cleaner, brushes, and compressed air.
I did all the bench test as well as a sync, put new plugs in, cleaned up the connections at the caps, and tested for spark. I attached a clean auxiliary tank and the bike fired right up, which was pretty fun to experience.
I’m fairly detail oriented and patient, but it looks like I got a little cocky and was not as meticulous as I thought. After reading the comments, it clicked and makes sense now. I believe the headers would get hot initially, because I was cracking the throttle on startup and the main jets are all clear. I just pulled the carbs and checked the idle jets on #1 and #3. I compared them to #2 and #4 and they appear to be blocked, since I cannot see light through them. I’ll soak them in carb cleaner tonight and hopefully have good news tomorrow.
Thanks for the help.
I used the Randakk kit, ultrasonic cleaner, carb cleaner, brushes, and compressed air.
I did all the bench test as well as a sync, put new plugs in, cleaned up the connections at the caps, and tested for spark. I attached a clean auxiliary tank and the bike fired right up, which was pretty fun to experience.
I’m fairly detail oriented and patient, but it looks like I got a little cocky and was not as meticulous as I thought. After reading the comments, it clicked and makes sense now. I believe the headers would get hot initially, because I was cracking the throttle on startup and the main jets are all clear. I just pulled the carbs and checked the idle jets on #1 and #3. I compared them to #2 and #4 and they appear to be blocked, since I cannot see light through them. I’ll soak them in carb cleaner tonight and hopefully have good news tomorrow.
Thanks for the help.
- dingdong
- Posts: 4011
- Joined: Thu Apr 08, 2010 8:35 am
- Location: Oklahoma City
- Motorcycle: 1976 gl1000
1993 gl1500A
2004 NRX1800 Rune SOLD
Re: Reviving an ‘83 GL1100A
Good that you found the problem. Good luck. (Famous last words: I cleaned the carbs) I doubt there are many guys that have been successful on the first attempt at cleaning these carbs.
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- Posts: 21
- Joined: Tue Aug 25, 2020 5:31 pm
- Location: Fort Worth, TX, United States
- Motorcycle: 1983 GL1100A Aspencade
Re: Reviving an ‘83 GL1100A
Got the right cylinders lit
. Next up — brakes.
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- Joined: Mon Apr 06, 2015 7:31 pm
- Location: Tampa, FL
- Motorcycle: 1982 GL1100 Standard and several GL650s , few GL500s
Re: Reviving an ‘83 GL1100A
Does your gas tank have rust? This can cause a clean set of carbs to get plugged up again and again......
The rust in my 83's gas tank is so fine it will pass through the honda stock filter then build up in the bottom of the carbs and chunk up then break loose and plug those tiny slow jets.
I've done a lot of cleaning on the tank at this point with the tank still in the bike. I do a lot of project bikes and if I do another Goldwing of this age I will start with the gas tank as step # one.
The rust in my 83's gas tank is so fine it will pass through the honda stock filter then build up in the bottom of the carbs and chunk up then break loose and plug those tiny slow jets.
I've done a lot of cleaning on the tank at this point with the tank still in the bike. I do a lot of project bikes and if I do another Goldwing of this age I will start with the gas tank as step # one.
Last edited by PhotoDoctor on Sat Dec 19, 2020 2:34 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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- Posts: 67
- Joined: Mon Apr 06, 2015 7:31 pm
- Location: Tampa, FL
- Motorcycle: 1982 GL1100 Standard and several GL650s , few GL500s
Re: Reviving an ‘83 GL1100A
BTW - Wow - you did a great job shinning those carbs up .......... and I know how much work that is!
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- Posts: 21
- Joined: Tue Aug 25, 2020 5:31 pm
- Location: Fort Worth, TX, United States
- Motorcycle: 1983 GL1100A Aspencade
Re: Reviving an ‘83 GL1100A
Photodoctor: Thanks for the tip and kind words on the carbs. I really had a very gratifying experience learning about the GL1100 carb system and appreciate all who have shared their experience over the years, both here and other forums.
The inside of the tank was very rusty, so I filled it with 5 gallons of cleaning-grade vinegar and let it sit while I moved through the carbs and fuel system. It’s done a really nice job and freed up the fuel sending unit, which now works. Since it requires removing the rear wheel to properly clean the tank, I attached a clean auxiliary IV to run the engine and will drain the vinegar and use a final application of Metal Rescue on the tank when I get to that point. I don’t think I’ll coat it, but will need to find a used petcock to rebuild — mine came with a broken stem.
My plan is to rehab wheel/tire, final drive, rear caliper/master cylinder, and gas tank at the same time. If anyone has recommendations and anything else to check with the wheel off and tank out, please pass along — maybe ignition advance?
I’m following the old school Randakk method of cleaning out the engine after a long layup and will use the 50/50 mix of 10W30 and Dextron ATF this weekend. I expect at least one neighbor to complain.
The inside of the tank was very rusty, so I filled it with 5 gallons of cleaning-grade vinegar and let it sit while I moved through the carbs and fuel system. It’s done a really nice job and freed up the fuel sending unit, which now works. Since it requires removing the rear wheel to properly clean the tank, I attached a clean auxiliary IV to run the engine and will drain the vinegar and use a final application of Metal Rescue on the tank when I get to that point. I don’t think I’ll coat it, but will need to find a used petcock to rebuild — mine came with a broken stem.
My plan is to rehab wheel/tire, final drive, rear caliper/master cylinder, and gas tank at the same time. If anyone has recommendations and anything else to check with the wheel off and tank out, please pass along — maybe ignition advance?
I’m following the old school Randakk method of cleaning out the engine after a long layup and will use the 50/50 mix of 10W30 and Dextron ATF this weekend. I expect at least one neighbor to complain.
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- Posts: 67
- Joined: Mon Apr 06, 2015 7:31 pm
- Location: Tampa, FL
- Motorcycle: 1982 GL1100 Standard and several GL650s , few GL500s
Re: Reviving an ‘83 GL1100A
New petcocks are available - at a fair price of around $ 25.00 if you shop around. (Maybe it was bikebandit.com - anyway they are out there.
I used a combination of methods to clean the tank first was electrolysis for several days, then chemicals, then electric fuel pump with filters, and finally vacuuming the tank through the big fuel sending unit whole.
It looks like you have it all under control - Is the bike original paint?
Cheers
I used a combination of methods to clean the tank first was electrolysis for several days, then chemicals, then electric fuel pump with filters, and finally vacuuming the tank through the big fuel sending unit whole.
It looks like you have it all under control - Is the bike original paint?
Cheers
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- Posts: 21
- Joined: Tue Aug 25, 2020 5:31 pm
- Location: Fort Worth, TX, United States
- Motorcycle: 1983 GL1100A Aspencade
Re: Reviving an ‘83 GL1100A
Great — I’ll take a look. The paint is original, although not in the best of condition. I’ll likely repaint it. The frame paint is pretty good, but from what I’ve read so far, I might not be able to match it for touch up, so I may strip it down and spray it.
Here’s a pic after I first got the bike and removed all the plastic.
Here’s a pic after I first got the bike and removed all the plastic.
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- Posts: 21
- Joined: Tue Aug 25, 2020 5:31 pm
- Location: Fort Worth, TX, United States
- Motorcycle: 1983 GL1100A Aspencade
Re: Reviving an ‘83 GL1100A
The rear master cylinder is off and frozen solid with rust.
- WingAdmin
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Re: Reviving an ‘83 GL1100A
It won't be rust, as it's made of aluminum. I would soak it in penetrant or ATF for a day or two and see if you can work it free. It's possible the aluminum has corroded internally if moisture was in there.
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- Joined: Tue Aug 25, 2020 5:31 pm
- Location: Fort Worth, TX, United States
- Motorcycle: 1983 GL1100A Aspencade
Re: Reviving an ‘83 GL1100A
Thanks for the reply. Here’s a pic — you can almost make out the snap ring. I’m giving the ATF a go.
- newday777
- Posts: 2087
- Joined: Tue Jan 11, 2011 5:21 pm
- Location: Milford NH summer/fall & Oceanside, CA winters(N San Diego) with lots of miles riden between
- Motorcycle: 2008 Cabernet Red. Level 4
1983 GL1100A Wineberry 36,000 miles
1975 CB750 K5 Planet Blue 7,800 miles
1976 CB750 K6 Anterris Red 25,000 miles
Past rides
1999A Restored from PO neglect & sold at 19,000 miles
1999SE Totaled by cager at 105,000 miles
Re: Reviving an ‘83 GL1100A
PB Blaster work too.......
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- Posts: 21
- Joined: Tue Aug 25, 2020 5:31 pm
- Location: Fort Worth, TX, United States
- Motorcycle: 1983 GL1100A Aspencade
Re: Reviving an ‘83 GL1100A
Tried PB Blaster while it was on the bike — the brake pedal wouldn’t budge and I was trying to free it up. I would blast it every few days and let the capillary action draw it up, but the rod won’t even spin. After a few days, I might try a Dremel with a brass brush to see if I can get the snap ring.
- MikeB
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184K Miles
2017 - GL1800 Audio Comfort
14K Miles - Contact:
Re: Reviving an ‘83 GL1100A
I personally have never tried electrolysis but I have heard that many have had good results with it. A quick search on the internet yeilds lots and lots of results and how-to's.
That shaft, piston back up washer, spring and snap ring are all steel, just about everything else in that cylinder is either aluminum or rubber. I can see how rust has seized it all up. Have you been able to find a rebuild kit for it? That was probably your first step in the process. Good luck. Keep us posted.
That shaft, piston back up washer, spring and snap ring are all steel, just about everything else in that cylinder is either aluminum or rubber. I can see how rust has seized it all up. Have you been able to find a rebuild kit for it? That was probably your first step in the process. Good luck. Keep us posted.
MikeB
1998 - GL1500 w/184,500 miles ~ 2017 - GL1800 w/13000 miles
USAF Avionics Communications Tech - 1968 - 1986 / Flight Engineer C-130E - C-141B - 1986 - 1992. Retired
Industrial Maintenance Tech - 1992 - 2014
Retired in Tacoma, WA
1998 - GL1500 w/184,500 miles ~ 2017 - GL1800 w/13000 miles
USAF Avionics Communications Tech - 1968 - 1986 / Flight Engineer C-130E - C-141B - 1986 - 1992. Retired
Industrial Maintenance Tech - 1992 - 2014
Retired in Tacoma, WA
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- Posts: 67
- Joined: Mon Apr 06, 2015 7:31 pm
- Location: Tampa, FL
- Motorcycle: 1982 GL1100 Standard and several GL650s , few GL500s
Re: Reviving an ‘83 GL1100A
I believe the shaft is carbon steel and the body is aluminum - thus I'm not sure electrolysis would work in this case. As a side note when I rebuilt mine I found a better than stock Circlip at Napa. The groove for the clip was a bit rounded out after all the cleaning so the better clip was needed to keep everything from popping out of place.
With a little luck you might be able to find a good used rear brake cylinder, on a local level so you can put eyes on it.
With a little luck you might be able to find a good used rear brake cylinder, on a local level so you can put eyes on it.
- newday777
- Posts: 2087
- Joined: Tue Jan 11, 2011 5:21 pm
- Location: Milford NH summer/fall & Oceanside, CA winters(N San Diego) with lots of miles riden between
- Motorcycle: 2008 Cabernet Red. Level 4
1983 GL1100A Wineberry 36,000 miles
1975 CB750 K5 Planet Blue 7,800 miles
1976 CB750 K6 Anterris Red 25,000 miles
Past rides
1999A Restored from PO neglect & sold at 19,000 miles
1999SE Totaled by cager at 105,000 miles
Re: Reviving an ‘83 GL1100A
The 83 is a 1 year part. Very uncommon to find one.....PhotoDoctor wrote: ↑Wed Dec 23, 2020 5:08 pm
With a little luck you might be able to find a good used rear brake cylinder, on a local level so you can put eyes on it.
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- Location: Fort Worth, TX, United States
- Motorcycle: 1983 GL1100A Aspencade
Re: Reviving an ‘83 GL1100A
The ATF is loosening the gunk and got a better look at it — definitely rust on the rod, jam nut, and circlip. Electrolysis is pretty cool, but my battery chargers won’t work and would have to borrow one. I also have Metal Rescue to try.
Unfortunately, I learned the ‘83 Aspencade has a one-off brake system which has made sourcing parts a little more difficult, but found MC and caliper rebuild kits for both front and rear. I also picked up stainless steel brake lines, so just need pads and rotors. Would prefer drilled/grooved replacement rotors, if anyone has a preferred source. I’ll probably need a new circlip and reservoir hose too and would appreciate any suggestions.
Unfortunately, I learned the ‘83 Aspencade has a one-off brake system which has made sourcing parts a little more difficult, but found MC and caliper rebuild kits for both front and rear. I also picked up stainless steel brake lines, so just need pads and rotors. Would prefer drilled/grooved replacement rotors, if anyone has a preferred source. I’ll probably need a new circlip and reservoir hose too and would appreciate any suggestions.
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- Posts: 21
- Joined: Tue Aug 25, 2020 5:31 pm
- Location: Fort Worth, TX, United States
- Motorcycle: 1983 GL1100A Aspencade
Re: Reviving an ‘83 GL1100A
The piston in the rear MC is putting up a fight. Tried ATF, PB Blaster, acetone, brake fluid, ultrasonic, torch heat, and forcing it out with air. I even tapped the piston to make a slide hammer and tried extractors — won’t budge. Starting soaking it in cleaning vinegar which is dissolving the corrosion, dried-up brake fluid, and the piston itself! I believe it is cast zinc pot metal.
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- MikeB
- Posts: 3173
- Joined: Fri Dec 04, 2009 12:54 pm
- Location: Tacoma, WA
- Motorcycle: 1998 - GL1500 Aspencade
184K Miles
2017 - GL1800 Audio Comfort
14K Miles - Contact:
Re: Reviving an ‘83 GL1100A
The piston no doubt ruted and swelled in the bore which is why it is reluctant to come out. I wish I had a solution for you to salvage this part. Hopefully you will be able to find a used one somewhere.
MikeB
1998 - GL1500 w/184,500 miles ~ 2017 - GL1800 w/13000 miles
USAF Avionics Communications Tech - 1968 - 1986 / Flight Engineer C-130E - C-141B - 1986 - 1992. Retired
Industrial Maintenance Tech - 1992 - 2014
Retired in Tacoma, WA
1998 - GL1500 w/184,500 miles ~ 2017 - GL1800 w/13000 miles
USAF Avionics Communications Tech - 1968 - 1986 / Flight Engineer C-130E - C-141B - 1986 - 1992. Retired
Industrial Maintenance Tech - 1992 - 2014
Retired in Tacoma, WA