Reviving an ‘83 GL1100A

[MattMcCoy]

Hey everybody,

I picked up an ‘83 1100A that had been sitting for at least 10 years under a carport. An initial cold compression test shows ~130 psi on all cylinders. I cleaned/rebuilt the carbs, replaced the fuel filter/hoses, adjusted valves, replaced belts/plugs, checked cam timing, and was able to fire it up. It idles well and has been synced, but noticed that #1 and #3 headers are initially hot on startup, but then quickly become cool on #1 and lukewarm on #3. I can wake them up by spraying carb cleaner down the intake.

-I have spark
-The bowls have fuel
-Number 1 & 3 plugs are wet
-Adjusted valves
-Checked cam timing
-Sprayed WD-40 around runners to check leaks

I’m not sure where to troubleshoot next, but leaning toward the pulse generator/vacuum advance. I would appreciate any suggestions — thanks.

[Wilcoy02]

Check your vacuum lines for leaks.

[dingdong]

If it runs after spraying carb cleaner in the intake then it is a sure bet those cylinders aren't getting fuel. Revisit your carb rebuild.

[newday777]

Howdy Matt
From your description I too think it is your 'clean and rebuild' process and kits used.
How exactly did you 'clean the carbs'?
What rebuild kits or parts did you buy?

[newday777]

Did you replace the spark plug wires and caps with new? I had green corrosion in the plug wires on my 83. There was leakage in damp, cold ambient air.
Makes a world of difference in spark power to the plugs.
7' of bulk 7mm plug wire, cut to 19" pieces.
4 NGK spark plug caps.

[MattMcCoy]

Thanks for the replies. As I mentioned, the bike had been sitting for 10+ years with fuel in the tank and carbs. Needless to say, it would not start and would have to have the carbs rebuilt and the hoses/filter replaced. Here’s a few pics:

I used the Randakk kit, ultrasonic cleaner, carb cleaner, brushes, and compressed air.

I did all the bench test as well as a sync, put new plugs in, cleaned up the connections at the caps, and tested for spark. I attached a clean auxiliary tank and the bike fired right up, which was pretty fun to experience.

I’m fairly detail oriented and patient, but it looks like I got a little cocky and was not as meticulous as I thought. After reading the comments, it clicked and makes sense now. I believe the headers would get hot initially, because I was cracking the throttle on startup and the main jets are all clear. I just pulled the carbs and checked the idle jets on #1 and #3. I compared them to #2 and #4 and they appear to be blocked, since I cannot see light through them. I’ll soak them in carb cleaner tonight and hopefully have good news tomorrow.

Thanks for the help.

[dingdong]

Good that you found the problem. Good luck. (Famous last words: I cleaned the carbs) I doubt there are many guys that have been successful on the first attempt at cleaning these carbs.

[MattMcCoy]

Got the right cylinders lit. Next up — brakes.

[PhotoDoctor]

Does your gas tank have rust? This can cause a clean set of carbs to get plugged up again and again......

The rust in my 83's gas tank is so fine it will pass through the honda stock filter then build up in the bottom of the carbs and chunk up then break loose and plug those tiny slow jets.

I've done a lot of cleaning on the tank at this point with the tank still in the bike. I do a lot of project bikes and if I do another Goldwing of this age I will start with the gas tank as step # one.

[PhotoDoctor]

BTW - Wow - you did a great job shinning those carbs up .......... and I know how much work that is!

[MattMcCoy]

Photodoctor: Thanks for the tip and kind words on the carbs. I really had a very gratifying experience learning about the GL1100 carb system and appreciate all who have shared their experience over the years, both here and other forums.

The inside of the tank was very rusty, so I filled it with 5 gallons of cleaning-grade vinegar and let it sit while I moved through the carbs and fuel system. It’s done a really nice job and freed up the fuel sending unit, which now works. Since it requires removing the rear wheel to properly clean the tank, I attached a clean auxiliary IV to run the engine and will drain the vinegar and use a final application of Metal Rescue on the tank when I get to that point. I don’t think I’ll coat it, but will need to find a used petcock to rebuild — mine came with a broken stem.

My plan is to rehab wheel/tire, final drive, rear caliper/master cylinder, and gas tank at the same time. If anyone has recommendations and anything else to check with the wheel off and tank out, please pass along — maybe ignition advance?

I’m following the old school Randakk method of cleaning out the engine after a long layup and will use the 50/50 mix of 10W30 and Dextron ATF this weekend. I expect at least one neighbor to complain.

[PhotoDoctor]

New petcocks are available - at a fair price of around $ 25.00 if you shop around. (Maybe it was bikebandit.com - anyway they are out there.

I used a combination of methods to clean the tank first was electrolysis for several days, then chemicals, then electric fuel pump with filters, and finally vacuuming the tank through the big fuel sending unit whole.

It looks like you have it all under control - Is the bike original paint?

Cheers

[MattMcCoy]

Great — I’ll take a look. The paint is original, although not in the best of condition. I’ll likely repaint it. The frame paint is pretty good, but from what I’ve read so far, I might not be able to match it for touch up, so I may strip it down and spray it.

Here’s a pic after I first got the bike and removed all the plastic.

[MattMcCoy]

Here’s my sync.



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[MattMcCoy]

The rear master cylinder is off and frozen solid with rust.

[WingAdmin]

The rear master cylinder is off and frozen solid with rust.

98C6CEB1-5A70-44D3-9869-4C1DB17DFA20.jpeg

It won't be rust, as it's made of aluminum. I would soak it in penetrant or ATF for a day or two and see if you can work it free. It's possible the aluminum has corroded internally if moisture was in there.

[MattMcCoy]

Thanks for the reply. Here’s a pic — you can almost make out the snap ring. I’m giving the ATF a go.

[newday777]

PB Blaster work too.......

[MattMcCoy]

PB Blaster work too.......

Tried PB Blaster while it was on the bike — the brake pedal wouldn’t budge and I was trying to free it up. I would blast it every few days and let the capillary action draw it up, but the rod won’t even spin. After a few days, I might try a Dremel with a brass brush to see if I can get the snap ring.

[MikeB]

I personally have never tried electrolysis but I have heard that many have had good results with it. A quick search on the internet yeilds lots and lots of results and how-to's.

That shaft, piston back up washer, spring and snap ring are all steel, just about everything else in that cylinder is either aluminum or rubber. I can see how rust has seized it all up. Have you been able to find a rebuild kit for it? That was probably your first step in the process. Good luck. Keep us posted.

[PhotoDoctor]

I believe the shaft is carbon steel and the body is aluminum - thus I'm not sure electrolysis would work in this case. As a side note when I rebuilt mine I found a better than stock Circlip at Napa. The groove for the clip was a bit rounded out after all the cleaning so the better clip was needed to keep everything from popping out of place.

With a little luck you might be able to find a good used rear brake cylinder, on a local level so you can put eyes on it.

[newday777]

With a little luck you might be able to find a good used rear brake cylinder, on a local level so you can put eyes on it.

The 83 is a 1 year part. Very uncommon to find one.....

[MattMcCoy]

The ATF is loosening the gunk and got a better look at it — definitely rust on the rod, jam nut, and circlip. Electrolysis is pretty cool, but my battery chargers won’t work and would have to borrow one. I also have Metal Rescue to try.

Unfortunately, I learned the ‘83 Aspencade has a one-off brake system which has made sourcing parts a little more difficult, but found MC and caliper rebuild kits for both front and rear. I also picked up stainless steel brake lines, so just need pads and rotors. Would prefer drilled/grooved replacement rotors, if anyone has a preferred source. I’ll probably need a new circlip and reservoir hose too and would appreciate any suggestions.

[MattMcCoy]

The piston in the rear MC is putting up a fight. Tried ATF, PB Blaster, acetone, brake fluid, ultrasonic, torch heat, and forcing it out with air. I even tapped the piston to make a slide hammer and tried extractors — won’t budge. Starting soaking it in cleaning vinegar which is dissolving the corrosion, dried-up brake fluid, and the piston itself! I believe it is cast zinc pot metal.



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[MikeB]

The piston no doubt ruted and swelled in the bore which is why it is reluctant to come out. I wish I had a solution for you to salvage this part. Hopefully you will be able to find a used one somewhere.