Solenoid bypass to starter shorting with frame.

[velvetrider]

Crossed leads to charger and I think I fried the starter solenoid. It just clicks when I depress starter button. I removed it to test but was not sure exactly how to preform the test. I saw postings about how to replace it with a 12 volt dip.(?) but I never saw the model # and found it a bit confusing.
It looks like it might be easier to simply replace the solenoid ?
Any info on this would be appreciated,

[AZgl1800]

solenoids are not sensitive to polarity, but there are diodes in some of the circuitry that can short if you reverse polarity.

I'm not familiar with that model bike,but I do have the schematic in PDF form.

I can email it to you, if you post your email, or PM it to me.

A hint on using Chargers....

Always connect the Positive lead to the Battery first,
then connect the Negative lead to the vehicle's frame/ground. Not direct to the battery.

On both of my bikes, I have installed a Permanent two wire connector that pokes out of the side of the plastic about two inches..... no way, can I reverse the polarity once that is done.

[winguyjo]

it's supposed to click, but clicking doesn't always mean that it's actually passing enough current to spin the engine.
you are going to need a multimeter or at least a 12v test light to make your checks.
whatever you do, DON'T buy an $8.00 ebay solenoid. it's $8.00 in the toilet and 1 solenoid in the scrap pile.

[velvetrider]

Thanks, It difficult to isolate for testing with a meter, if it is removed from the bike. The wiring harness is unclipped, Thanks

[velvetrider]

Thanks guys for helping me. In trying to isolate the exact problem with my solenoid I followed the suggested method of bypassing my Solenoid to verify that my starter was operating correctly.
I attached the hot lead of a battery to the positive lead of the starter. (turn on KILL switch) Turn on ignition then connect the negative lead to the frame of the bike. As soon as I tried to connect it to the frame it sparked like crazy, direct short. I guess that the starter has somehow shorted itself out of existance. Does anyone have an explaination about why the Neg lead would spark on the frame?

[velvetrider]

When I bypassed the solenoid to diagnose the starter I found my starter is grounded to the frame.
I connected the positive lead to the + post of the starter. I then tried to connect - lead to the frame.
It sparked like a direct short. Has anyone experienced this??

[Maz]

The starter draws a lot of current, which is passing from positive, through the starter to ground. When you touch the frame with the negative lead you are completing the high current circuit, hence the sparks. It will spark even if the starter is good. It will, of course, spark even more if the starter is stuck or shorted.
Maz

[WingAdmin]

When I bypassed the solenoid to diagnose the starter I found my starter is grounded to the frame.
I connected the positive lead to the + post of the starter. I then tried to connect - lead to the frame.
It sparked like a direct short. Has anyone experienced this??

Are you sure it's a direct short? The starter can draw a tremendous amount of current - 100+ amps. This can look very much like a direct short. Did the starter move when you did this?

What's the resistance you measure (with an ohmmeter) between the terminal on the starter and the starter case?

[velvetrider]

Maz, Thanks for the info, Wingadmin said the same thing. I measured resistance from + post on starter to starter case, ".5" Also resistance from post to the end of the battery cable. ".5"
I guess I will try it again to see if the starter will spin. Thank you guys.

Update,, Starter spins well. Now it's time to find a new solenoid I guess.

[velvetrider]

Thank You Guys,
You have always come through for me on this forum. I am fortunate to have your association.