1982 GL1100i Alternator Bolt Broke Off

[RuDogGL]

Started up the GL1100i to move it so I could arrange items better in the Work area, pull it out of the Garage and put it on the Center stand, made the changes in the Work area, went back over to the GL110 and the Alternator Bolt Head was Broke off lying on the Housing, here are some Photos, what could have cause this to happen and how do I repair this.

thank you all the will help in advance.

[DenverWinger]

Looks like you can thread the bolt back into the rotor shaft, new caps are easily obtainable, and you can probably JB Weld the broken piece of the housing.

[RuDogGL]

Thanks for replying, I'm fairly new to Working on this part of the GoldWing, so the Bolt goes into the Rotor Shaft. Any ideal why it came a lose. Does this has to do with the Timing?

[RuDogGL]

I attempted to screw that bolt back in, but it never started to grab as I turned it. The bolt is not broken off at all, I bump the starter to see if that would rotate the rotor and than maybe the bolt would grip, did not help. Its in neutral and I also tried it in first gear, but still no grabbing, so I put it back in neutral.

[bruce swaybill]

The pictures look like you damaged the external cap, not the alternator bolt. This cap is also used for the final drive oil fill. These are damaged easily by over tightening.....

Originally they were used for the valve tappet access on the older bikes, from the xr75 up to the cb750.

These caps are readily available, especially on eBay.

Bruce S.

[RuDogGL]

Thank you Bruce, I was not able to screw the Bolt into the Rotor. Are you saying all I need to do is what DenverWinger said, just JB Weld it back together after I screw the bolt back in?

[bruce swaybill]

Don’t bother gluing the part. On eBay, search for “Honda valve tappet cap”. They go for $10 or less a piece. The pain from saving a few bucks will last much longer than the pain of paying a few more today.

Bruce S.

[DenverWinger]

I wasn't for a second suggesting gluing the thread-in cap, just get a new one. But the little broken piece of the rear cover can be glued.

The stator may have slid rearward enough on the shaft that the bolt isn't reaching the threads in the rotor shaft, see if you can start the bolt into the shaft without the washers to see. If that works, you should be able to slide the rotor back where it belongs.

Threads on the bolt looked okay in the photo, but the end of the threads in the shaft may have gotten buggered up a little. Patience may have its rewards on getting the bolt started, or you may have to find a tap which matches the bolt threads and chase out the threads in the end of the shaft.

Earlier post you asked if this has anything to do with timing. It does not. The bolt simply holds the alternator rotor in place. My 1100 has done this, too, but bolt hadn't come completely free. I only needed to tighten it back down and get a new cap.

[bruce swaybill]

So, we think the rotor bolt loosened up, unthreaded over time until it contacted the cap and eventually pushed thu the cap? The cap is soft material. It sounds plausible. The threads may have gotten damaged when the bolt was stuck between the rotor and the cap. Perhaps a tap and die will clean up the threads. Access to the rotor thread may be difficult, but I would try it! Cleaning up the bolt with a die should be easy. If you don’t succeed, the rotor is only accessible with the rear cover removed, and that requires removing the engine from the frame. I would try real hard to clean up the thread while in place......

As to how this happened: when this bolt is used to rotate the engine for the valve adjustment process and the belt replacement process they always say to rotate the bolt clockwise in the tightening direction. If someone got that wrong, they may have loosened it.

Whose to say what happened to this poor bike before you recused it!

Bruce S.

[WingAdmin]

So, we think the rotor bolt loosened up, unthreaded over time until it contacted the cap and eventually pushed thu the cap? The cap is soft material. It sounds plausible.

That's exactly what happened. It's far from the first time someone here has had this happen. If that bolt loosens off, it will eventually back out and rip the threads out of that cap. Make sure the threads on the cover itself are undamaged, or a replacement cap won't fit.

When replacing the bolt, it torques to 65 ft-lb. You'll want to put the bike in fifth gear and have someone hold the rear brake pedal down while you torque it, or you won't get it tight enough (it will turn the engine before it gets to 65 ft-lb).

[RuDogGL]

There is no thread on the casting for the Cap to screw into,

here is a enlarge view and thanks for all of the advice

[RuDogGL]

I will look for a Cap. What if there is no way but to pull the motor does anyone have instruction for that from start to finish.?

[winguyjo]

IF it comes to that. there is an EXCELLENT video on youtube by steve saunders. i think he is showing a 1200 but the 1100 is virtually the same.

[WingAdmin]

There is no thread on the casting for the Cap to screw into, here is a enlarge view and thanks for all of the advice

As I suspected, it ripped the threads right out as it got pushed out, unfortunately.

[RuDogGL]

WingAdmin, that unfortunately means a engine pull right thanks for the info about saunders link Winguyjo

[WingAdmin]

WingAdmin, that unfortunately means a engine pull right thanks for the info about saunders link Winguyjo

To replace that cover, yes. At least the engine out procedure in the 1100 is not as heinous as it is for later Goldwings. It can be done realistically in a few hours if you know what you're doing.

[RuDogGL]

Thank you all, I will start watching the Video on Youtube

[RuDogGL]

Denverwinger, after some praying asking GOD for help, I was able to screw the bolt in with no issue
WingAdmin, I was also able to torque it to 65ft with a pinch to grow, so thank you for that.
Now I will just need to find a back cover and replace it or pay someone else to do it.

[Chewy]

when you pull the motor, i suggest pulling the rear cover off to check the stator windings. if the magnet rotor moved back into the stator, it could have damaged the stator enough to cause it not to charge any more. for me, it is worth the extra time to check it even if it is not damaged. same thing happened on mine, and i did not check the stator. needless to say, i had to pull the engine to replace the stator. this will also give you a chance to check the starter clutch and, if necessary, clean it up. i do suggest a little bit of blue locktite on the threads of the stator bolt, but that is just my preference.

[DenverWinger]

Good news on the bolt!

You can start the engine and assess the condition of the stator with a voltmeter on the battery, as chewy stated I had the rotor slide rearward when my 1100 did this, it damaged the stator, no charging and the engine had to come out. You may be lucky and the rotor didn't slide enough to damage the stator and the alternator is still good, if that's the case I'd try a jerry-rigged fix before having to pull the engine.

I'd try to clean up the threads with a sharp pick to get remnants of the cap out of the threads in the cover and see if you can get a new cap to fit. You could then try to fill in the broken out area with JB weld, or even try to glue in the broken piece. Might have to file the threads off the little piece if you can't get the threads to line up correctly.

There's no oil to speak of getting to the back side of that cap with engine running so leaking won't be a problem, the fix doesn't have to be perfect, it just needs to cover the hole enough to keep dirt out. This would save pulling the engine and trying to find another rear cover.

However, if no charging the engine will have to come out anyway.

Good luck!

[Chewy]

DenverWinger, when the bolts on mine went backwards I went ahead and replaced the stator but also did the poor boy conversion on mine. I've put about 5,000 mi on my conversion since putting it on, and I love it

[DenverWinger]

Right - but if his alternator is dead he has a good opportunity to replace the cover instead of jerry-rig attempt.

[RuDogGL]

I got a new Cap and here is the results, I did no JB Weld, no glue, no tapping, it just fir right in the hole and tighten up, praise GOD THE FATHER.

[DenverWinger]

A little dab of silicone over the cap and into where the piece broke out of the cover will fix that little hole. Silicone easily removeable.

Were you able to confirm the alternator is still charging?

[RuDogGL]

DW I did not, how do I check that