1983 Aspencade 1100 starting and engine lock issue?

[Sig45227]

My bike has been sitting for several years, in fact more, but this is the same problem I had with it occasionally when it was in running order. I just started a new account today to post about the same problem, or at least I think it's the same problem.
My battery is known to be dead, so far I have tried to jump it with a fresh battery I bought for my truck, didn't work. It wants to crank but doesn't fire. Tried jumping it with my running car and got it to fire once and it ran for almost ten minutes until I tried to give it throttle, then died and back to the same issue.

What's strange, when I bought this bike over ten years ago it was literally sitting in a barn and had not been ridden for about 6-7 years, maybe more. I trailered it home, dumped the gas, did an oil change and added fresh gas, new battery installed, cleaned the plugs and it fired up and ran!
Occasionally it would have issues where it would seem like the motor was locked and it would not turn over. (Fuel petcock leaks so I always shut the gas off) I pulled the plugs back then and it will crank over like a champ, but as soon as I put the plugs back in it won't crank over. I try stutter stepping the started to rule out a bad gear or other similar issue and it wants to go but won't crank over more than for 2 second or so.

I did the fuse upgrade a long while back, and replaced the starter but still occasionally had the issue. I always parked on top of a slope so I could roll start it with the clutch. Today I tried everything again, took out plugs and it cranks easily. Took off the starter positive lead and cleaned all the connections with a brass brush and fine sandpaper and put on a new stainless nut and washer. Still wouldn't fire. I even pulled out all the fuses except those necessary to start and run the engine, trying to rule out Amp/Voltage bleed. The mystery continues....I'm trying to get this bike ready to sell but really want it running before that happens. -Tim

[MattMcCoy]

I think I follow. If the engine won’t turn over until you remove the plugs, it is likely you have hydrolock, caused by flooded carburetors leaking fuel into the pistons. Remove the plugs, turn the kill switch to off, and press the start button to clear the fuel. It’s very important to do this outside and make sure nothing that you don’t mind spraying with gasoline are on either side of the bike. Just to reiterate, be certain there is no spark at the plug wires while you do this. Finally, you’ll need to dump the oil, which now has gas in it, address the leaking fuel, and refill the crankcase with fresh oil.

To get the bike running again, the entire fuel system will need to be gone through. At a minimum, you might be able to pull the carb rack and clean it out enough to clear some obstructions, but it is likely it’s time for a total fuel rebuild (tank>petcock>fuel lines>filter>fuel pump>carburetors).

You don’t mention the belts, but if they haven’t been changed in a couple decades, it would be a good idea to do so before you proceed turning over the engine. If a belt breaks, it can cause catastrophic damage to the valves and pistons.

Unfortunately, the time and expense of the above might be more than it’s worth, especially if you plan to sell the bike.

[Sig45227]

All great points. Suspected hydrolock when I first bought the bike long ago, and last week when I started tinkering with it again. I cranked it over plug less with towels over the plug holes, been through that mess before. Not much came out but what did came from the two forward cylinders.
Drained oil last week, measured what came out and it was at normal capacity with no real pronounced smell of gasoline.
Bike is level and on it's center stand and I always shut the petcock off between attempts.
All old gas was drained and a gallon of non reformulated added to the tank, which surprisingly is still rust free and clean. It started last week and ran for about 10 minutes but died when I tried to give throttle.
At this point I think I fried the solenoid from so many attempts at starting, have one on order. It clicks but no more cranks even with plugs out.
I agree it needs a fuel system cleaning but as you pointed out my objective is to sell.

[Sig45227]

Almost forgot one thing, I pulled the negative lead to the frame cleaned it and the surface behind the frame bolt mount to ensure contact.

[DenverWinger]

Might check the starter brushes, If they are worn down it causes the starter to draw way-too-much current which could fry your start relay, and it will produce much less than normal torque, spinning engine OK with plugs out but not enough torque to turn it over well with compression.

Starter brushes are a cheap fix, Your local automotive Starter/Alternator rebuilder will probably renew the brushes for $30ish if you don't want to do it yourself. I believe OEM 1100 starter brushes are still available.

[Sig45227]

I replaced the starter when I got the bike. At that point it had less than 8I on, now it's close to 22k. So low miles and most obviously are highway and back roads. I'm beginning to suspect it the started clutch internally to the engine. Not something I'm interested in tackling as I'm selling the bike. The main problem I think is this bike has had two very long periods of sitting. Cannot be good for all components needing regular lubrication etc. I know little of the internal clutch mechanism that driven by chain off the starter.

Hopefully someone can shed light on those symptoms and issues. I have seen posts where people recommend running sea foam or atf through the engine to clean and or rejuvenate the involved assemblies. Either way, hard to do if the engine won't run.

I'm contemplating getting a tow and bump starting it at this point.

[82Standard]

I know your pain as i`m in the same position as i type this, worn starter clutch. The good news is rebuilding the clutch is easy and the (Honda) parts are available @ Partzilla.com. The less than good news is, the engine HAS to come out, not difficult just finicky. If you have a mother Honda manual the process is fully described and relatively easy. Or you can probably get one online. If not; PM me.

[Sig45227]

Looks like it's not the solenoid. I replaced and had the exact same issue. I pulled the starter, hooked terminals from my car battery to it while running and it barley turned, then with a twist from my fingers it picked up speed. Brushes must be fried?

On a good note the sprocket with internal spline driven by the starter looks in excellent shape! No real wear of any kind. I turned the internal drive chain that is driven by the starter and it rotates freely when pulling the chain from the top, but it is tight when pulling from the underside. Is this normal to it's operation indicating the starter clutch theoretically is in good shape?

[WingAdmin]

Looks like it's not the solenoid. I replaced and had the exact same issue. I pulled the starter, hooked terminals from my car battery to it while running and it barley turned, then with a twist from my fingers it picked up speed. Brushes must be fried?

On a good note the sprocket with internal spline driven by the starter looks in excellent shape! No real wear of any kind. I turned the internal drive chain that is driven by the starter and it rotates freely when pulling the chain from the top, but it is tight when pulling from the underside. Is this normal to it's operation indicating the starter clutch theoretically is in good shape?

Correct. That's the sprag clutch at work, that allows the engine to spin freely of the starter once it starts (also why it doesn't hurt to engage the starter when the engine is already running).

So you're very likely looking at brushes. Could potentially be the planetary reduction drive, but I'm betting it's brushes.

[Sig45227]

Gonna dig into it shortly. Anyone know a reputable company selling rebuild kits that are quality and appropriately priced?

[Sig45227]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PK4R3BK/?tag=goldwingdocs-20 ... QH15ABAKYM

[Sig45227]

Was completely trashed. Smelled like death! One of the brush mount rivets failed, found it in the housing. very small piece, about .1" dia. This was definitely not a new starter when I purchased it.

[Sig45227]

All cleaned up, just need a brush kit.

[duncang011]

I bought a brand new starter from Walmart.com for $72.00.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/HONDA-STARTE ... /317637457

[Sig45227]

Did you take a look inside before installing it? Just curious as I thought I bought a new starter a while back too, it wasn't from Walmart but after pulling it apart the other day it sure was not new when I bought it. You can just tell from the where on the motor shaft segments.

I bought a brand new starter from Walmart.com for $72.00.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/HONDA-STARTE ... /317637457

[WingAdmin]

Also, a lot of the cheaper aftermarket starters use plastic reduction gears that...well, don't typically last very long.

[duncang011]

It looks brand new, I'm not installing it until my old one breaks. I stockpile parts because I don't like to wait on things. here's the description and link
https://www.walmart.com/ip/HONDA-STARTE ... /317637457
HONDA STARTER GL1100 GOLDWING 1100 80 81 82 83 31200-463-008 31200-463-405 18600
Specifications
Brand
Gladiator
Condition
New
Manufacturer Part Number
31200-463-008,31200-463-405

[82Standard]

Have been following this thread and can only add that in my 44 years of fixing things mechanical professionally and around the house, its Always best in the long run to use OEM parts and supplies. Yes we can save a few bucks going elsewhere but in the end I always find myself tracking down OEM parts, supplies, and manuals and its far cheaper all things considered (now that we have the internet) than doing the same job twice, three times. Try NOS (new old stock) searches. I once found engine parts for a 1931 Harley Davidson motor and they were delivered in original factory packaging, in 1996! Currently rebuilding a 1982 GL 1100 and my go to supplier is Partzilla.com, all available mother Honda parts.

[duncang011]

I use Partzilla for my 1982 GL1100 restoration project, that's where I got the OEM part Number. I think I have spent $1000.00 + on parts so far in just a couple of weeks.

I also use this site

https://www.goldwingparts.com/collectio ... 1100-parts

[82Standard]

Thanks for the link. Checked them out and i think i can do better than P/zilla on a quick price review.

[duncang011]

Each site has it's better prices on different things.

[bofler]

I've bought a bunch of stuff from Partzilla because they have been more quick and reliable than other parts sellers, especially Goldwing specific ones. And if you can find it cheaper elsewhere, Partzilla will respect the price match and refund the difference.

[duncang011]

That's good info about price matching.

[Sig45227]

Finally got the new plate and brushes. Wish me luck!

[Sig45227]

Done with the rebuild. Bench tested and it spins freely and feels powerful. Some variation in the internal washers on the motor shaft end. Mine do not fit within the end of the motor shaft, but go over the boss on the inside of the cap. Either way it runs, test in the bike tomorrow.