83 GL1100 Proportioning Valve

[LittleGoldy]

Greetings and salutations Friends. I am asking for a little guidance, if possible. I have recently purchased an Adjustable Proportioning valve and want to venture where few have gone. Discussing with a few friends about the possibility of linking ALL the brakes and perhaps adding an ABS control module.
1. Talking it over with a few "friends" and they said that I should NOT link them all due to the possibility of a failure at least I would have 1 Front brake to stop with. Blank off the secondary Front In and Out ports therefore.
2. Is anyone familiar with the current "set" of the stock prop valve in relation to the front and back linked percentage?
3. Due to the adjust ability of the purchased item, I am not against a trial and error testing method to dial it in better, but where to start FROM?

Notwithstanding the new lines, larger M/C piston bore and re-configuration/location challenges, does anyone have better input?

Awaiting some out of the box thinking on this one. Thanks for any tips or idea's to consider.

Thanks!!!

[LAB3]

I'm glad I UNLINKED mine. Since I do a lot of camping that means time on dirt roads, it's nice to be able to use the rear brake in those situations. A generic $25 MC off eBay and a length of stainless line was all it took.

[Rambozo]

Greetings and salutations Friends. I am asking for a little guidance, if possible. I have recently purchased an Adjustable Proportioning valve and want to venture where few have gone. Discussing with a few friends about the possibility of linking ALL the brakes and perhaps adding an ABS control module.
1. Talking it over with a few "friends" and they said that I should NOT link them all due to the possibility of a failure at least I would have 1 Front brake to stop with. Blank off the secondary Front In and Out ports therefore.
2. Is anyone familiar with the current "set" of the stock prop valve in relation to the front and back linked percentage?
3. Due to the adjust ability of the purchased item, I am not against a trial and error testing method to dial it in better, but where to start FROM?

Notwithstanding the new lines, larger M/C piston bore and re-configuration/location challenges, does anyone have better input?

Awaiting some out of the box thinking on this one. Thanks for any tips or idea's to consider.

If you want fully linked brakes, that is not a problem. The real question is how many master cylinders do you want, hand, foot, both?
As long as you use a dual or tandem cylinders, you will have the same type of redundant brakes like a car with separate front and rear circuits. In fact your best source of bits and ABS pieces is a small car. Look up caliper piston diameters and numbers and try for a close match. I'm sure some tiny car can be a good donor. Grab the whole brake system from a boneyard as a good starting point. Maybe something like a Geo Metro? Ideally you want something early enough that is has a self contained ABS module, and doesn't use the engine or body computer to do everything.

I used to work at a shop where we built all kinds of crazy Frankencars for customers and employees. One guy there had a Mercedes 240D with an Opel GT engine, Mitsubishi turbo charger, and Fiat fuel injection. It almost looked factory apart from the emblems.

[LittleGoldy]

Thank You for your suggestions. I have purchased a brand new Wildwood Car proportioning valve with an extra circuit port for dual front input and outputs. I was just gonna blank one off and keep the stock set up though the original one is still functioning. Seeing as how I am breaking her all the way to the chassis figured it would be best just to get an adjustable one brand new an set it up. I have heard both views expressed keep it and dump it. For me, it came with it, might as well just keep it.

That means, 2 master cylinders, one for front one sided brake action and a rear for linked (front left and rear applied through the proportioning valve) brake action.