1983 GL1100 brake system rebuild and modify


Information and questions on GL1100 Goldwings (1980-1983)
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Sig45227
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1992 Yamaha FZR1000

1983 GL1100 brake system rebuild and modify

Post by Sig45227 »



After all all this work I put into the bike over the last month I figured I'd take a bigger step forward and rebuild and modify/unlink the right front and rear calipers.
Looking to ultimately get matching sized calipers up front. 32mm is the left calipers piston size.
I will post up parts lists, suppliers and technical information on fittings needed to block off the old splitter linking the rear and right front brakes.

:D It's fun to work on all this so I can evaluate whether or not I should keep the bike based on it running/operating in best condition.

So far this has been my repair and maintenance completion list.
○Install new starter. (after rebuilding and installing 2 others.
○Drain fuel tank and run treated gasoline through carbs.
○Spark plugs, in and out to any times.
○New fuel lines and filter.
○Flushed brake line fluid.
○Install new battery.
○Change real diff fluid.
○Oil & filter change.
○Install new left saddle bag stay and bag.
○Remove all unnecessary lights and add ons. (I like it as factory)

Planning on doing or in process of:
○Rebuilding all calipers and both master cylinders.
○Replace inner fork seals and change oil.
○Change out right front caliper to match the left.
○Install new stainless braided lines on front calipers.
○Coolant flush and change.
○Remove wheels, get new tire on and reinstall.

Got my work cut out for me.
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Sig45227
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Re: 1983 GL1100 brake system rebuild and modify

Post by Sig45227 »

Any advise as what to test/check while it's in this state? Seemed like it was only running on 3 cylinders last week when I rode it. Haven't tried it with the new plugs yet though.
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Sig45227
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Re: 1983 GL1100 brake system rebuild and modify

Post by Sig45227 »

Progress on reassembly
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Sig45227
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Re: 1983 GL1100 brake system rebuild and modify

Post by Sig45227 »

Getting the scale out of the caliper seals/bores. Small nylon and brass brush wheels work best after hitting the big stuff with a pick. Used a wood paint sponge handle that already had a split for some soft scotch brite pad for the piston bores. No metal removed.
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Not too bad after brake clean and a pick but seal grooves still have scale.
Not too bad after brake clean and a pick but seal grooves still have scale.




All clean.
All clean.

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Re: 1983 GL1100 brake system rebuild and modify

Post by WingAdmin »

Nice job, that's a clever idea to hold the Scotch-Brite pad, and the results speak for themselves.
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Sig45227
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Re: 1983 GL1100 brake system rebuild and modify

Post by Sig45227 »

Thanks! I've seen it done here and on other sites so I can't take total credit. A wood dowel that's been slotted with a hacksaw works great too, and the wood won't score your aluminum.

Getting ready to install new rubber seals. I think I saw in your how to article that you used automatic transmission fluid to lube the seals prior to install?

Both are hydraulic fluid I guess, shouldn't be a problem. I know that the brake fluid is hydroscopic and the automatic transmission fluid is hydrophobic?
WingAdmin wrote: Mon Aug 02, 2021 10:32 am Nice job, that's a clever idea to hold the Scotch-Brite pad, and the results speak for themselves.
Jhurt
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Re: 1983 GL1100 brake system rebuild and modify

Post by Jhurt »

I have the same bike, someone in it's past de-linked the brakes. I just went through all of it in the process of putting it back on the road. The only thing that was changed was the rear master cylinder, it has one from an '82 or '81 it looks like. The front wasn't changed, still has the different pistons let and right. After I got through it really surprised me, the brakes are better than my '97 HD electraglide (that has single piston calipers up front). I rebuilt everything with parts from PartsnMore and Cyclemax
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Re: 1983 GL1100 brake system rebuild and modify

Post by bruce swaybill »

My 83 was unlinked by a previous owner. All he did was disconnect and cap the hard line to the front caliper, then he installed a brake line setup from an 82. He left the master cylinders and calipers as is. That was probably done early in the bike’s life.
After a caliper seal leak, I rebuilt the whole system. I removed the steel and rubber lines, couplers, proportioning valve, the works. I replaced them with HEL braided steel lines directly from the MCs to the Calipers, separating the front and rear systems again. This included a double banjo bolt at the front MC.
I also rebuilt the the MCs and calipers, but replaced the original 25mm front right caliper with the 82’s 30mm and the the original 14mm MC with the 82’s 16mm (5/8 inch).
I left the original 16mm rear MC in place, but rebuilt.
Also have EBC disks and pads. For the rest, I used all Honda parts. Many have been superseded with later improved versions.
This setup performs VERY nice!

Good luck.
Bruce S.
Have a nice day! :)
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Re: 1983 GL1100 brake system rebuild and modify

Post by the_big_h »

Sig45227 wrote: Mon Aug 02, 2021 11:08 am Getting ready to install new rubber seals. I think I saw in your how to article that you used automatic transmission fluid to lube the seals prior to install?

Both are hydraulic fluid I guess, shouldn't be a problem. I know that the brake fluid is hydroscopic and the automatic transmission fluid is hydrophobic?
Not a good idea to use ATF for brake parts - as far as I know, ATF is petroleum-based, while brake fluid is glycol-based. The petroleum-based fluids will soften the brake rubber parts. Use brake fluid only for lubrication of the seals.

For the slider pins, I use silicone lubricant, not grease.
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1983 1100a Aspencade

Re: 1983 GL1100 brake system rebuild and modify

Post by Chewy »

Sig45227 wrote: Sun Aug 01, 2021 3:02 pm Any advise as what to test/check while it's in this state? Seemed like it was only running on 3 cylinders last week when I rode it. Haven't tried it with the new plugs yet though.
if the bike is new to you, order the timing belts and replace them. $26 each at my local oreillys, and a lot less headache than the alternative. if they are old and breake while it is running, major damage can be done. the are interference engines. the best you could hope for is no damage done. least amount of damage is that you will bend a valve. the worst damage to be done is that the valve can put a hole in the piston.

test for spark not only from the spark plug, but also from the coil itself. i did the 02 neon coil mod 2 years ago on my 80 interstate, and am very happy with it. ive put 2 rear tires on mine, and the coils are still running strong with no ill affects on the electrical. i bought an 83 aspy several weeks ago that i plan on doing this mod on.

ive also done the poor boy conversion on my 80, and plan on doing the same with the aspy.
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Sig45227
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Re: 1983 GL1100 brake system rebuild and modify

Post by Sig45227 »

Appreciatethe feedback! Not sure if the belt has ever been changed in its life. When I first got this bike it at less than six thousand miles on it, now it's got a little less than 22,000. And the bike is 38 years old so I'm sure that belt could use a change. Any idea on how much time that would really take? Especially for someone who's never done it before. I'm quite mechanically inclined but it's all new to me.
Chewy wrote: Tue Aug 03, 2021 3:31 pm
Sig45227 wrote: Sun Aug 01, 2021 3:02 pm Any advise as what to test/check while it's in this state? Seemed like it was only running on 3 cylinders last week when I rode it. Haven't tried it with the new plugs yet though.
if the bike is new to you, order the timing belts and replace them. $26 each at my local oreillys, and a lot less headache than the alternative. if they are old and breake while it is running, major damage can be done. the are interference engines. the best you could hope for is no damage done. least amount of damage is that you will bend a valve. the worst damage to be done is that the valve can put a hole in the piston.

test for spark not only from the spark plug, but also from the coil itself. i did the 02 neon coil mod 2 years ago on my 80 interstate, and am very happy with it. ive put 2 rear tires on mine, and the coils are still running strong with no ill affects on the electrical. i bought an 83 aspy several weeks ago that i plan on doing this mod on.

ive also done the poor boy conversion on my 80, and plan on doing the same with the aspy.
Last edited by Sig45227 on Tue Aug 03, 2021 10:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: 1983 GL1100 brake system rebuild and modify

Post by Sig45227 »

Got some parts late in the afternoon. Already starting to mock everything up. I leave it all loose until I get everything set in place just to make sure there are no clearance issues etc. I only have so many copper washers. Haha.
I really like these Goodridge lines, you order the banjo bolt as a separate entity and it's all compression fittings. It gives you room to tweak things as far as where the banjo bolt is oriented Etc. I kind of showed it in one picture that you can mount the banjo bolt off on an angle if you really wanted to, although the picture I took his rather extreme.
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Sig45227
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Re: 1983 GL1100 brake system rebuild and modify

Post by Sig45227 »

On to the right front caliper. I seriously did not expect chunks this big or hard to come out of the passageways. Pistons pushed out relatively easy though. More of a pain to unhook the bulkhead inside the fairing area.

No wonder the brakes were total garbage.
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Re: 1983 GL1100 brake system rebuild and modify

Post by WingAdmin »

Sig45227 wrote: Mon Aug 02, 2021 11:08 am Thanks! I've seen it done here and on other sites so I can't take total credit. A wood dowel that's been slotted with a hacksaw works great too, and the wood won't score your aluminum.

Getting ready to install new rubber seals. I think I saw in your how to article that you used automatic transmission fluid to lube the seals prior to install?

Both are hydraulic fluid I guess, shouldn't be a problem. I know that the brake fluid is hydroscopic and the automatic transmission fluid is hydrophobic?
WingAdmin wrote: Mon Aug 02, 2021 10:32 am Nice job, that's a clever idea to hold the Scotch-Brite pad, and the results speak for themselves.
I just checked, and no, it definitely says to use brake fluid to lubricate the seals before installation.
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Re: 1983 GL1100 brake system rebuild and modify

Post by Sig45227 »

Right side done and mocked up until I get the master rebuilt and installed.
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Re: 1983 GL1100 brake system rebuild and modify

Post by Sig45227 »

Coming along nicely, work trip has interrupted my progress.
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All new internals and seals
All new internals and seals

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Sig45227
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Re: 1983 GL1100 brake system rebuild and modify

Post by Sig45227 »

Rebuilders beware. This kit did not come with the o-ring that goes under the plastic master cylinder reservoir.
It did not appear to be in bad shape, but all the prying to get it out probably put micro tears in it.

The extremely slow leak did not rear its head until I put the system under highest pressure installing the new pads pushing the Pistons all the way back in.

So frustrating, the entire system was on bled out and I was ready to take it around the block for a test ride. I guess maybe I got lucky?
Now what to do? Get a new o-ring or just say the hell with it and get the better master cylinder assembly. Either way I'm waiting for parts.
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Re: 1983 GL1100 brake system rebuild and modify

Post by Chewy »

on my 80, i ended up making a gasket out of a sheet of fel-pro gasket material. i have not had a leak in 2 years.


if you got brake fluid on any of the ABS plastics, wipe it off immediately. it will cause the plastics to crack tremdously.
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Sig45227
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Re: 1983 GL1100 brake system rebuild and modify

Post by Sig45227 »

My solution for the rear brake was to cap the line that went to the right front caliper with a union and bleeder screw.

I did have to trim the union down by about an eighth of an inch on one side so that the compression fitting from the original line would bottom out in the Union. Doesn't leak so all good.

Better than getting into the splitter buried behind the left rear of the engine above the swingarm.
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Last edited by Sig45227 on Fri Aug 06, 2021 5:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: 1983 GL1100 brake system rebuild and modify

Post by Sig45227 »

I just got done cleaning up the mess. Brake fluid was essentially dripping very slowly on many parts. Pulled the master cylinder reservoir off after drawing most of the fluid out with a large syringe.
Chewy wrote: Fri Aug 06, 2021 4:55 pm on my 80, i ended up making a gasket out of a sheet of fel-pro gasket material. i have not had a leak in 2 years.


if you got brake fluid on any of the ABS plastics, wipe it off immediately. it will cause the plastics to crack tremdously.
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Re: 1983 GL1100 brake system rebuild and modify

Post by Chewy »

Sig45227 wrote: Fri Aug 06, 2021 5:09 pm My solution for the rear brake was to cap the line that went to the right front caliper with a union and bleeder screw.

I did have to trim the union down by about an eighth of an inch on one side so that the compression fitting from the original line would bottom out in the Union. Doesn't leak so all good.

Better than getting into the splitter buried behind the left rear of the engine above the swingarm.
good job on that idea. are you able to use it as if it were a bleeder valve? if so, it will help tremendously when/if you ever need to bleed the rear brake.
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Re: 1983 GL1100 brake system rebuild and modify

Post by Sig45227 »

Yes, I bled it today to see if it was functional. Not exactly easy to get to but it's doable with a hose attached.
No luck on O-rings at local hardware stores. Metric items are just about non-existent as far as O-rings go.
I ordered on of these, 16mm piston should work far better if it's functional at $20.00, lol https://www.ebay.com/itm/271312394943
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Re: 1983 GL1100 brake system rebuild and modify

Post by Chewy »

Sig45227 wrote: Fri Aug 06, 2021 9:36 pm Yes, I bled it today to see if it was functional. Not exactly easy to get to but it's doable with a hose attached.
No luck on O-rings at local hardware stores. Metric items are just about non-existent as far as O-rings go.
I ordered on of these, 16mm piston should work far better if it's functional at $20.00, lol https://www.ebay.com/itm/271312394943
that MC may or may not work for you. a friend of mine ordered one like that, and it was a 14mm bore. i ordered a used MC from a 2001 st1100, and it worked perfectly on my 1980. im glad that you are able to use that bleeder valve though. makes lif a lot easier to bleed the rear system.
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Re: 1983 GL1100 brake system rebuild and modify

Post by Rambozo »

These are always handy to have in the shop.


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Re: 1983 GL1100 brake system rebuild and modify

Post by Sig45227 »

Hoping I get lucky, it was pretty cheap. 👍🏻🍻
Chewy wrote: Fri Aug 06, 2021 10:04 pm
Sig45227 wrote: Fri Aug 06, 2021 9:36 pm Yes, I bled it today to see if it was functional. Not exactly easy to get to but it's doable with a hose attached.
No luck on O-rings at local hardware stores. Metric items are just about non-existent as far as O-rings go.
I ordered on of these, 16mm piston should work far better if it's functional at $20.00, lol https://www.ebay.com/itm/271312394943
that MC may or may not work for you. a friend of mine ordered one like that, and it was a 14mm bore. i ordered a used MC from a 2001 st1100, and it worked perfectly on my 1980. im glad that you are able to use that bleeder valve though. makes lif a lot easier to bleed the rear system.


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