1980 GL1100 no power to dash. Will not start

[ClinicallyInZane]

New here. I have a 1980 GL1100 and have no power to the dash, no lights, wont start. I replaced the starter solenoid and in doing so I accidentally touched the frame with the socket while installing it and it made a big spark. Now I have no dash lights and will not start. The starter is good, I still get draw on the battery when I try to start it, and I can get power to the dash lights when I run a jumper wire from battery positive to the fuse box. The wires going into the ignition all check fine as well. Can anyone out there help me or please point me in the right direction?

[arnoldsq]

you probably hit the main fuse next to the starter relay. If its original it will look like this. https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda ... 14QAvD_BwE

[ClinicallyInZane]

Is there another fused location besides in the false tank fuse box and the main fuse off the solenoid? I have never seen this fuse but the 30Amp fuse off the solenoid is fine.

[ClinicallyInZane]

Or could it be my ignition switch still stopping it from starting even though I am jumping power to the fuse box? If so how would I test this?

[arnoldsq]

there is a wiring guide in the manuals area. If you have to run a jumper to the fuse box, I would check all the connections around the battery. If you arent getting power to the fuse box then its likely your not getting a signal to the relay to crank. Running that jumper does get power to most systems but wont have enough amperage to even try the starter. That is why I went to the 30 amp at the solenoid. as far as i know that is the only fuse that stops all battery power. If you ran that jumper you would probably get 12V on both sides of it but not have the amps to start if it is bad.

[OldguyGlen]

If you don't have the "dog-bone" fuse link, and instead have a 30 amp spade-lug type automotive fuse, then someone has modified your bike. That's a good thing as the dog-bones are inferior, and the automotive fuses are available everywhere if needed on the road. But the modification may have been done poorly. Start measuring for 12 vdc on both sides of the 30 amp fuses, and at every connection along the way, all the way up to the fuse box under the shelter. Current to almost everything goes thru the 30 amp fuse, except the very high current routed to the starter motor via the start relay. Your jumper straight to the fuse box should power everything, including the start-button and relay. Listen for the relay click as you press the start-button, with your jumper in place. If the relay does click, but starter motor doesn't spin, then you might have relay or starter motor problem as well. But bad connections at, or around the battery, ground, and relay might explain everything.

[ClinicallyInZane]

thanks. I will these suggestions.

[ClinicallyInZane]

OldguyGlen thanks for the help! I just kept tracing wires until I found one that must have shorted out, it was burnt and the sheathing had melted off. replaced it and now I am back on the road just in time for the fall weather!

[WingAdmin]

Glad to hear you're back on the road!

Just as a STRONG suggestion for anyone reading this in the years to come...whenever doing work on an energized electrical system such as the starter, fuse box, etc....ALWAYS remove the negative battery cable from the battery FIRST! This will prevent problems like the one encountered here.