clutch problems on my gl1100

[johntwarren]

my 83 gl1100 has been setting for six years due to me having knee problems now my knees have been replaced i want to ride again so i am thinking i will have a stuck clutch need some info if any one has any

[OldguyGlen]

Glad to hear you are getting active again. Why are you suspecting a clutch problem? Merely sitting for 6 years does not really predict a clutch problem. Many 'barn finds' have been sitting much longer without a clutch problem. Carbs/fuel system problems are more likely. Test the clutch function before you worry too much. Just manually push the bike with it in gear, while exercising the clutch lever. You may have other problems to work on as well. But this is a great forum to get help.

[DenverWinger]

Clutch plates can get stuck together if the bike has been sitting a good while.

Easy enough to unstick the clutch if the engine runs and rear brake is in good working order. It will probably work better on a warm engine, so let it run a while and warm up.

Then with bike on center stand, transmission in gear (a higher gear is better) pull the clutch lever in, rev up to about 3000 RPM then hit the throttle and slam on the rear brake at the same time.

You'll either unstick the clutch or stall the engine. Might take multiple attempts.

[WingAdmin]

More likely it's corrosion that has seized the clutch cable. When you pull the lever, do you see the cable trying to pull the clutch actuator down at the engine?

[LAB3]

Clutch plates can get stuck together if the bike has been sitting a good while.

Easy enough to unstick the clutch if the engine runs and rear brake is in good working order. It will probably work better on a warm engine, so let it run a while and warm up.

Then with bike on center stand, transmission in gear (a higher gear is better) pull the clutch lever in, rev up to about 3000 RPM then hit the throttle and slam on the rear brake at the same time.

You'll either unstick the clutch or stall the engine. Might take multiple attempts.

I'll second that. Had a bike (Not a Goldwing) I found that hadn't been on the road in over 20 years that was stuck in neutral. Got a good rolling start like I was push starting it, jumped on and jammed it into first, that took care of it.

[johntwarren]

when I was ridding it to work every day I had a sticking clutch even just sitting for the day, I was able to get it free by pulling the clutch leaver and rocking it. I am unable to drop it to the floor and rock it now because the rear brake peddle is stuck I have to free it but the cable is not froze it works, just looking into the future of what need to fix.
thanks for the in put.
p.s. has anyone tried the four in one carb system . I am on the fence on this one.

[LAB3]

I'm running a single carb, If my original carbs had been in good working condition I'd have probably stayed with them Since I wander about six months a year and lack a place to work on the bike on a regular basis I chose to go that route with simplicity and parts availability in mind. For a little bit less than the price of a well known rebuild kit I was able to put a single carb intake and Chinese knock-off VW carb on it. Last week I picked up a genuine Solex carb to rebuild and replace it since the one that's on there now is showing seepage from every contact surface and it's getting tougher to tune, it's only covered about 10k miles.

[johntwarren]

how does the single carb on gas mileage and performance. my friend had a interstate and was getting 42 mpg, my aspencade was only getting 36 mpg. how does the one carb compair to this.

[LAB3]

On the Interstate I get 40+MPG all day long. Sadly while running down state highways with a stop/go every time you come across a town or major intersection it drops to sub 35MPG. Don't ask about what I get around town in "Grocery Getter" mode, it's too embarrassing! Started with an Empi Pict 34-3 knockoff with the jetting it came with, it ran good enough. After some reading and asking around, I pulled the jets, float and needle valve it came with and went with genuine Solex parts which improved performance and tunability. After seeing the current condition of the carb and running into an old school VW guy out camping a few weeks back his suggestion was to dump the Empi and go with a genuine original Solex Pict 34-3. There have been other knock offs produced over the years with the Bocar being a common one which in his opinion are hit-and-miss as far as quality is concerned. Luckily I'm still in contact with him and am planning to get the jetting, float height, choke and all the other variables dialed right in over the course of the next few months. If I where starting out fresh today I'd search for a Solex to rebuild, that along with a gasket and a couple of o-rings will run about the same price as the Empi and you get to know the carb inside and out during the rebuild process. When it costs about $10+ shipping for one jet at a time it makes sense to start with the best possible foundation to work with and if you're going to be on the road awhile, having the confidence to dig into problems where and when the arise is above monetary value.

[johntwarren]

thanks to all of for your input, going to get a new battery in next and start working on my wing to see what it will take to get it running.
thanks