Heel/toe shifter…broke a part of the linkage


Information and questions on GL1100 Goldwings (1980-1983)
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OldGoldie
Posts: 43
Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2022 11:43 am
Location: York, PA, USA
Motorcycle: 1983 GL1100 Interstate

Heel/toe shifter…broke a part of the linkage

Post by OldGoldie »



Bought a used Markland heel/toe shifter to install on an 83 interstate. Installation went fairly well, until… I discovered that the piece that attaches to the shifter knob on the engine was bent. I attempted to bend it back, and unfortunately snapped it right in half. I’m not sure how available these parts are, but wondering how it would work if I cut down the stock shifter peg to the appropriate length and drilled a hole in it to the appropriate spot, maybe attach it at a slightly different angle so it can actually move enough to shift when controlled by the linkage? Hopefully everyone understands what I am saying. I know I have read on the internet that guys have cut up stock shifters for shift linkages before.




Limpy45
Posts: 57
Joined: Mon Jan 11, 2021 2:42 pm
Location: Grand Forks, ND 58201
Motorcycle: 80 GL1100 standard and a 99 GL1500 SE

Re: Heel/toe shifter…broke a part of the linkage

Post by Limpy45 »

If you can weld or have a friend that can, just have it welded back together and redrill the hole to take out the weld material from the inside. Or you could have a new one made up yourself. On my first 1980 GL1100 I bought a heel/toe shifter that was missing the arm like that. I sort of guessed at the correct length and cut off the oem shift arm and drilled a hole for the hardware to attach. Shifted great and from what I have seen/heard since was just a bit quicker shifting with less pedal movement because I made the arm a bit shorter!
OldGoldie
Posts: 43
Joined: Sun Jan 09, 2022 11:43 am
Location: York, PA, USA
Motorcycle: 1983 GL1100 Interstate

Re: Heel/toe shifter…broke a part of the linkage

Post by OldGoldie »

Limpy45 wrote: Wed Mar 09, 2022 5:15 pm If you can weld or have a friend that can, just have it welded back together and redrill the hole to take out the weld material from the inside. Or you could have a new one made up yourself. On my first 1980 GL1100 I bought a heel/toe shifter that was missing the arm like that. I sort of guessed at the correct length and cut off the oem shift arm and drilled a hole for the hardware to attach. Shifted great and from what I have seen/heard since was just a bit quicker shifting with less pedal movement because I made the arm a bit shorter!
Actually I’ve long moved on from trying to use the heel/toe shifter. I found an extra long toe shift lever that fit the shaft. Bought new footboards and didn’t even bother with the heel/toe shifter that came with it. I haven’t gotten much response to my posts here, so I haven’t posted any follow ups.
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