1983 GL1100 Engine Have You Seen One Worse

[wilbo]

Hello and greetings from Cumbria in the UK. So I have decided to strip the engine on the basket case that I am restoring, has anyone rescued one as bad? The oil is more like a milky brown chocolate mix and a lot of rust and crap in the main casing. The bores of the engine are not to bad and I hope when I split the casing the bearings and gears are recoverable. Any advice for cleaning up? What to check?

[joecoolsuncle]

i would part it out, abandon that project. you will never know or trust that engine (cooked oil) coolant in oil is an abrasive. and the motorcycle has a value less than 1500 dollars. unless you just love it, strip it and use the money to buy another.

[wilbo]

Thanks for reply joecoolsuncle. Although it looks like coolant it isn't, it appears to be petrol and was really strong smell. I am going to split the cases anyway for the hell of it so I can look fully inside and then make the decision. The bike only has 32,000miles on it and has been stood for 17 years. If it only requires new bearings, set of piston rings and a new water pump I will be tempted to resurrect the engine. If not I shall look for a good second hand engine. I always wanted the 83 model as it had better gearing for cruising unlike my 80 model below that I also restored.

[joecoolsuncle]

very admirable. good luck! and lots of pics!

[Rednaxs60]

Saw this on the CX 500/600 forum, makes yours look like it's from the factory: https://www.cx500forum.com/threads/neve ... st-1115363

These engines are very robust. I rebuilt the engine of my '85 Limited Edition becasue it was smoking considerably. Found some seized internal bearings - always wondered where the squealing was coming from. The internal roller bearings, three IIRC, bearings are availbale aftermarket for a bearing shop. Not much to the inside when you get it apart. New rings may be hard to get, but the rings from a 2002 Chevy Tacker 1.6 litre engine are a good fit. These come in standard 75 mm size, 0.5 mm over, and 1.0 over. I installed a set of 1.0 over - adjusted the ring gap to suit and these are working just fine. Another fellow in Alberta did the same. Reasonable at $50.00 CDN shipped by RockAuto. Made by Hasting. Auto industry has been doing this for years.

The primary drive chain will be good. The only wild card are the crank and con rod journal bearings, but with that low mileage should be okay.

If you don't have the OEM service manual would recommend getting one.

Good luck.

[MattMcCoy]

You might consider reaching out to John at https://www.wingovations.com/.

He likely can help with parts/info in the UK, if you need it.

[LAB3]

I've seen far worse in a car engine that's for sure. If you pull apart a 60's or 70's era V8 with 100k miles that's been used 10 minutes at a time in a suburban setting and a northern climate you'd be surprised as to how it could ever possibly run! I've had good luck using a mix of DMSO (Dimethyl sulfoxide) and dish soap for cleaning up cases, it's easy to find and relatively inexpensive.

[wilbo]

Saw this on the CX 500/600 forum, makes yours look like it's from the factory: https://www.cx500forum.com/threads/neve ... st-1115363

These engines are very robust. I rebuilt the engine of my '85 Limited Edition becasue it was smoking considerably. Found some seized internal bearings - always wondered where the squealing was coming from. The internal roller bearings, three IIRC, bearings are availbale aftermarket for a bearing shop. Not much to the inside when you get it apart. New rings may be hard to get, but the rings from a 2002 Chevy Tacker 1.6 litre engine are a good fit. These come in standard 75 mm size, 0.5 mm over, and 1.0 over. I installed a set of 1.0 over - adjusted the ring gap to suit and these are working just fine. Another fellow in Alberta did the same. Reasonable at $50.00 CDN shipped by RockAuto. Made by Hasting. Auto industry has been doing this for years.

The primary drive chain will be good. The only wild card are the crank and con rod journal bearings, but with that low mileage should be okay.

If you don't have the OEM service manual would recommend getting one.

Good luck.

Wow, and I think I have some concerns with just the engine

[wilbo]

You might consider reaching out to John at https://www.wingovations.com/.

He likely can help with parts/info in the UK, if you need it.

Thanks for reply, I shall note that address.

[wilbo]

I've seen far worse in a car engine that's for sure. If you pull apart a 60's or 70's era V8 with 100k miles that's been used 10 minutes at a time in a suburban setting and a northern climate you'd be surprised as to how it could ever possibly run! I've had good luck using a mix of DMSO (Dimethyl sulfoxide) and dish soap for cleaning up cases, it's easy to find and relatively inexpensive.

Yes that will work, I have a solvent bath I can use at home and I also have access to a hot solvent spray bath where it spins and jets it from all angles in workshop at work, I’ve used it a few times and it’s amazing. Will strip engine this week and split cases then I know what I’m looking at.

[Rednaxs60]

Wow, and I think I have some concerns with just the engine

Not sure of the details behind the video, but it does bring to mind that we live in a throw away society. If it's not looking good, or it seems to be past its prime, it's part it out and throw out what could not be sold. Parting out an older bike is great if you have the stamina for the hurry up and wait syndrome becasue we all want a good part at bargain basement price(s). Cleaning up the parts after disassembly, postage and the likes keeps us from doing this. Easier to do the recycle bin.

Having mentioned this, if the bike is mechanically sound, bearings tires, brakes, lights and such, an engine refresh from the inside out is a great way to go. New rings, hone the engine cylinders, make sure the bearings are good. Not a quick process but well worth the effort, and you know what you have.

Replacing the engine with a used engine is exactly that, a used engine without a maintenance history. I rebuilt my '85 Limited Edition for a couple of reasons. Didn't like the blue smoke on initial and subsequent start ups, cost to purchase a used 1200 FI engine and ship it was cost prohibitive, and I had never rebuilt a 1200 motorcycle engine. Was intimidating when I started, but there is not a lot to these engines.

Bought an '85 Limited Edition carcass with a lot of good parts and complete engine. Took the engine and everything off the carcass I wanted - got a lot of good spare parts for the CFI system, took the engine completely apart for transport - hard to lift a 1200 engine by oneself. Engine is in very good condition internally. May be a work project in the future, rebuild.

My point is to take the engine apart, figure out what is needed, rebuild the engine. Not a quick scenario, but the best of both worlds.

Just a few thoughts.

Cheers

[LAB3]

Not a quick process but well worth the effort, and you know what you have.

That's my exact take on things. Not only do you know what you have but you'll also know the bike inside and out which comes in awfully handy when you're miles from nowhere and no cell service to call for help.

[Rednaxs60]

Quite a few people who are refurbishing these engines are having the parts/pieces vapour blasted. I rebuilt my 1200 engine and had all the parts/pieces vapour blasted as well as other bike parts. Does a great job, polishes well afterwards, and a protectant to use is CERAKOTE MC5100 air dry - formulated by the company to adhere to all types of aluminum and painted surfaces, nothing else will. Nothing sticks to it after it is applied. Just a thought.

[Unclefluffy]

I have a 1981 and think it may be in as bad, if not worse than this one!
I've not started the restoration yet, as working on another project ('88 VFR750), but fully expect it to be rough, as was sitting in a cow shed on the Scottish borders for five years!