Electric fuel pump conversion??

[Scooter66]

I have an 83 Gl1100. I've been searching the web for a step by step electric fuel pump install. I couldn't find the Randakks one. Does anyone have some pictures or a link? I want to hook up an electric pump as my original pump has failed.
Thanks

[landisr]

Have you checked to see if anyone has done such a conversion on a gl1000? Check out the sections below for the gl1000, gl1100 and even the gl1200 series Wings. The 1200s I believe came with electric but I don't believe the OEM 1200 pumps are available any more so owners have been forced to improvise.

Good luck

Ron in AZ

[Aussieemu]

Hi , I have converted my GL 1000 to electric pump and have left the original in place so it looks, well , original.
I put a small K&N 81-0400 fuel pump up in the top shelter to the right of the fuel gauge mounted near the ign coils. Works well. Can take some photos if you like?

[Scooter66]

Pictures would be great! Did you also install a relay? Could you tell me how you ran the wiring?
Thanks so much.

[DenverWinger]

Pictures would be great! Did you also install a relay? Could you tell me how you ran the wiring?
Thanks so much.

You can the fuel pump with a relay or maybe two relays, set up so either of them can send power to the pump, with pump power to relays sourced from IGN-On circuit somewhere like from downstream side of Kill Switch, not direct from Battery:

Pump Relay #1 triggered from start relay (optional) - Power the pump when Start relay is energized - powers the pump while cranking. Clue: use normally open relay. You could skip this relay and just use relay #2, but the fuel pump won't run until you've cranked enough that the oil light goes out and relay #2 takes over. This relay not necessary if your bike usually has enough fuel left in the carbs where the engine starts quickly. And if you have to crank a lot, oil light will go out while cranking and relay #2 will take over and power the pump anyway. You decide.

Pump Relay #2 triggered by oil pressure sensor - Keeps power to the pump if oil pressure switch is open and oil light off (has oil pressure, engine running, kills power to pump if engine stalls and oil light comes on). Clue: use normally closed relay, will be energized and kills power to pump if oil light is on.

So if the oil light is on - no power to the pump unless you press the start button and trigger relay #1. When engine starts, oil light goes off and DE-Energizes relay #2 allowing the normally closed contacts to close, and continues power to the pump. If you stall the engine and the oil light comes on, also energizes relay #2 which opens the NC contacts and kills the pump.

Make sense?

I'd rather you think out how to hook that up, but if you get stuck I'll be happy to help....

[Rambozo]

Another option is to use a VW fuel pump relay. There is one version that does the key on prime for a few seconds then runs when cranking and cuts off if oil pressure is lost. And another version that uses a trigger to one of the ignition coils and only runs when there is spark. In both cases all the electronics are inside the relay and they are dirt cheap and stocked everywhere.

[DenverWinger]

Not familiar with those, but sounds like a nifty option....

[Maz]

Hi , I have converted my GL 1000 to electric pump and have left the original in place so it looks, well , original.
I put a small K&N 81-0400 fuel pump up in the top shelter to the right of the fuel gauge mounted near the ign coils. Works well. Can take some photos if you like?

I have done exactly the same, but pump mounted under left shelter. I installed a 'tip over sensor ' from an ST1100, to cut power to the pump if bike goes over. Also, I stripped the guts out of an original pump, and sandwiched a metal plate , with a Viton disc, as a seal, so that I could run the fuel through the old pump (even though it is inoperative) so that everything looks original.
Maz

[Aussieemu]

My pump is mounted on the frame rail above the radiator cap. It looks close in the photo but there is plenty of room. Photo of the bracket over the frame rail. The fuel line from the tank still goes via the standard Honda fuel filter. From there the line runs to the suction side of the pump ( not seen in photos) the pump outlet with the brass elbow runs to the carbies .
The old pump has hoses running to and from it but are not connected into the fuel system. I have actually seen a bike with the original mechanical pump removed and replaced with a blanking plate in which a electric pump was screwed too. Crude but a easy plumbing fix.
Electrics I have done very simply with no relay, the pump draws very little power. I haves wired it into a live wire ( with ignition on) at the fuse panel. I can see merit it having a relay which only works when the engine is running. However for me I wanted the pump to fill the carbies with fuel before cranking the motor over. In my case the bike can sit for weeks without a running and the carbies dry out ( evaporation) here in a hot Australian climate. Since making this change the bike starts immediately with out cranking waiting for the fuel to pump into the carbies. Easier on the starter motor and battery.

Fuel pump

Pump mount taken from above

Old pump looks like it’s connected

[Scooter66]

That's awesome. Thanks guys. I'm going to install this and add a relay. I like the idea of hiding the pump under the false tank. I appreciate all the tips and pictures. It's a big help. Electrical can be a little tricky, not my Forte, but I'm always willing to give it a go.
Cheers.

[WingAdmin]

However for me I wanted the pump to fill the carbies with fuel before cranking the motor over. In my case the bike can sit for weeks without a running and the carbies dry out ( evaporation) here in a hot Australian climate. Since making this change the bike starts immediately with out cranking waiting for the fuel to pump into the carbies. Easier on the starter motor and battery.

I actually LIKE that after a sit for a while, the engine cranks for a bit before firing off. That gives it the opportunity to start pumping oil in and around the crank and journal bearings before the engine lights off, helping to offset some of the big wear that happens when cranking a dry engine.

[Scooter66]

Soooooo. I installed a new electric fuel pump and relay, which is working just fine. Thanks for the tips on that one. Alas the bike is still running like crap. What it does is, starts OK and then when you crack the throttle, it revs up around 4000 rpm and just stays there. Eventually it may come back down to a rough idle. Shut it off and she backfires. I've had the carbs off and apart 3 times now. Just put in new air cutoff valves and manifold gaskets. The throttle pump is working good. God, I e checked everything and try to be meticulous as possible. Could it be the float height? Are the slides all identical? They appear to be. I may have mixed them around. There is no bike shop around here that will touch these old bikes. I don't know anyone who owns an old wing. It's just me relying on you guys, which has been quite helpful. I'm 56 and have been working on bikes, snowmobiles, outboard motors most of my life and have never had So much trouble getting one to run properly. This thing is confounding me. I so wish I could get this thing on the road because my dad owned the same model and year and he's thrilled I have one. I usually refuse to be beaten, but I'm really close to throwing in the towel.

[biguns]

I think the first GL carbs I did it took 3 tries to get it right, Forgive me if I mention things you already have done
I do try to use the original parts such as jets, needles, idle jets these really do not wear and aftermarket kits are really bad about getting the sizes right some are good most are not.
First since you had a pump problem be sure and remove the float needle seats and check the tiny screens for debris, they can clog fast with rubber diaphragm material
Second did you clean the emulsifier tube under the main jets? They need removed to properly blow out the passages anyhow also the idle jets have emulsifiers too and a tiny little jet on them that has to be clear, idle air screws must be removed and all the idle passages blown out with compressed air. Concerning idle there are also tiny idle holes just under the butterfly on the bottom of each throat in each carb with the jet and air adjustment screw removed blow compressed air through the idle jet holding a finger or plugging the air screw opening or and blow air through the air screw hole holding the finger over the jet hole.
You should be able to feel air blowing against your face through these holes, I use my face because it is sensitive enough to feel the light air jet and feel is the only way with the hissing going on with blowing air..
I am near certain you have a problem in the idle circuit but if you try again check it all again, and bench fill them with an elevated 4-5 foot length of cheap clear tubing so as to copy the 3 pounds of pressure your pump will sent to them, let them sit a day at least to be sure no leaks.
Work the throttle and be sure each of the carbs tiny accelerator jets pump fuel, not just the main accelerator pump but each jet in all 4 carb throats have to pump fuel.
They are a tough carb but when they are right they work great
Also this is a good tutorial here, it is a pdf file.
https://www.goldwingfacts.com/attachmen ... df.326174/

[Scooter66]

Thanks biguns. I will gi e this one last hurrah. I will follow to the letter. I ll try standing on one leg this time and maybe get it blessed by a voodoo shaman. I would lo e to ride this bike this summer. Thanks so much for your input. I ll update you after the next tear down which will be number 4!

[biguns]

Sure thing, I have rebuilt auto and motorcycle carbs going way back into the 70` I had jobs doing just rebuilding carburetors . but it all needs to work together more so then most all carbs you cant miss anything with the Goldwing carb rebuild but once done they are very reliable, Today I woke up my 1100 from a 3 year slumber no tinkering needed, I ran the bowls dry and drained the tank before storage, they were ready to run with fresh gas and a few hiccups filling the fuel passages. Engine no problem but the brake cylinders didn't make it