Rebuild carbs

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I rebuild carbs on 83 gl1100 aspencade today because couldn't get idle right and had vacuum leak from hell no matter where I sprayed starter fluid rpms shot skyward but now it's smoke and strong gas smell I'm going to be taking carbs back off again any pointers what to keep eye out for as I do

[biguns]

your symptom would indicate a manifold leak look for torn boots(that is the rubber part that slips on the carb) also manifold orings where they bolt to the head, are they new and the right size? if you get just any oring the diameter may be too small, the size across can be right but if diameter is too small it wont sandwich (seal) tightly,
You can also look at the seal between the carburetor and plenum, although this seal will not affect operation as much it will give starting fluid a place to get sucked in raising the idle, I would start with the manifolds it sounds like it may be there.
until you get a vacuum leak fixed there would be no sense opening up the carbs yet
I have also though situations like yours would be a good time for a smoke tester, that is where you introduce smoke under a light pressure to look for leaks, but the GL is so simple it never qualified for the hooking up of the tester, you could have just pinched an oring on install, if so be sure and replace it.

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Thank you for your insight and for giving me advice and knowledge this is my first goldwing and I really want to keep her on the road I will do as you say and check on your points I appreciate it

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You were right about vacuum leaks at manifold and the other spot plus float gaskets on 3 2 and 1 were seeping gas so thank you for the help

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[bofler]

I think you'll need to do a better job of describing your problem and what steps you've already taken. Your post is borderline incoherent.

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Sorry about that I'll start over about 3 weeks ago now I bought a 83 gl1100 aspencade it had a unsteady idle at around 2500 rpm when it is warmed up
when it's cold or at rpms 2200 or lower sounds like it's missing and shakes and shutters and makes a weird sound that's not quite a knocking sound it will also make this same sound at take off along with the shutters
Now what I have done so far is new spark plugs and wires I did add new aftermarket coils but they were arching between the restrictor plate so I replaced restrictor and new coils kept arching so put old coils back on with the new wires and plugs this helped with the unsteady idled but wouldn't stay idling unless I keep idle screw turned up high
I ran a test with starter fluid for vacuum leaks and engine would hit 5000 and more no matter where I sprayed so obvious vacuum problems so decided to do another rebuild on carburetors before I started I did check on timing belt and I properly gauge and set valves .004 for top ones and .005 for bottom ones
Now I am rebuilding carburetors for second time (the person I bought her from I'm pretty sure lied about rebuild or at least I hope ) it was my first time rebuilding carburetors and I made makes so now I am doing again and more slowly and more ocd like
I'm just now starting to put #3 carburetor back together still have other 3 to got

[bofler]

What brand? Where are you getting the carb parts from?

[Noclue]

I'll have to wait until morning but to tell you the name everything is in my brother in laws garage it was the cleanliness place I had to do rebuild.
But I regret the kit I bought I'm working on a small budget so kit had bad orings so bought new ones today I have a picture on phone I'll share the pilot screws that came with kit are very breakable the air shutoff valve I believe it it's called doesn't even fit so cleaned up a set of used ones that still look better than the ones in kit.
But kit definitely wasn't worth the few dollars I saved but right now my goldwing is only mode of transportation to be able to work to fix her up .
I have also rebuilt rear master cylinder I will have to get a new housing to replace that one is bad .
Ok I'll post some pics now

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Before

Where I'm at now and still long way to go

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Oh and most parts I'm try to give new life too

[biguns]

Something caught my eye in the pics, I see you have an oring kit, I have 2 kits standard and metric and there wasn't an oring in either that was the correct size for the GL carburetors, not even the manifold orings, I bought most of my orings from online motorcycle parts supplies.

[Noclue]

Yea the little ones are too fat lol I also bought sheet gasket making material that is fuel and heat rated I was on that randakks got some coming
I have a question what is the best way to polish the slides my #3 carb definitely needs because it is sticking

[Noclue]

This is definitely a great bike to do everything to restore her

Yea the little ones are too fat lol I also bought sheet gasket making material that is fuel and heat rated I was on that randakks got some coming
I have a question what is the best way to polish the slides my #3 carb definitely needs because it is sticking

[biguns]

Look and see where it is sticking, you want to try and not remove any metal if you can avoid it, I just fix the scratch or ding with some light careful sanding with 1000 grit just enough so it slides smoothly as the others, and just where the scratch or damage is, sometimes takes a jewelers file or mini file.
If it is in the slide cap proceed very carefully, turn all 4 caps upside down , put the springs in then install the slides , the spring should allow the slide to move freely when you press down of them, the weight of the slide should keep the sliding surface about even with the edge of the cap and when you press down it should encounter no resistance and bob back up to about the top edge, before hand check your slide springs for equal height, if one is a tad shorter just carefully and gently pull on it to equal them out then try the above test.

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Thank you I will do and I appreciate your help I truly do

[biguns]

No problem, I just went out to the garage to dig out a cap and slide for reference, provided the picture loads you will see that the edge of the large part of the slide is about even with the edge of the cap, if I push the slide into the cap it slides smooth and will rebound up about 3/4 to almost all the way up to the edge, If I take out the spring it will sink smoothly to the bottom, you want all 4 to do that.
The slide part with the needle will fit into the carb not as precisely as the cap part but also should encounter no resistance the center slide stem in the second pic I use some carb spray or contact cleaner on a rag and just twist it into the opening till it hits bottom.

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Yeah without the spring in my number 3 it just falls ill send a video if I can

[biguns]

Screenshot_20220724-005720_Messages.jpgYea the little ones are too fat lol I also bought sheet gasket making material that is fuel and heat rated I was on that randakks got some coming
I have a question what is the best way to polish the slides my #3 carb definitely needs because it is sticking

Don't use gaskets, order Honda orings, the gasket material will squeeze out, there are grooves in the intakes for an oring, add a few dabs of silicone the night before and will keep them secure while you install them.
Slide should take about 1-1/2or2 seconds to fall to the bottom without the spring, there is a slight resistance going down and pulling it up without the spring, with spring it should settle about even or just below the edge of the cap

[OldguyGlen]

Here's an old trick I've used many times for light cleanup of delicate aluminum parts. I crumple a wad of aluminum foil and use it to wipe the surfaces. I've used 00 steel wool for more aggressive cleaning too, but the crumpled foil is safer.

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I saw a YouTube video of what you are talking about with the aluminum foil i wouldn't have thought of it I've just been slowly using the stuff I have for silversmithing but skipping to the end process of buffing its slowly getting better but thank you for the other route

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Looking good to me so far

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On last stretch of leg and then it's time to see how it goes

[DenverWinger]

Much shinier than mine....