New (to me) Goldwing with a few questions

[Jcook1023]

Hi guys, I’m sure the status on other boards but my phone is being very wonky trying to navigate so I figured I would just put a couple questions up…I picked up an 83 GL1100 yesterday and noticed a couple things that raised some questions and while I have thoughts, I figured I’d get some other opinions…

When I try to start the bike I hear the starter solenoid clicking but the start is not engaging; I know the battery has been sitting for several months so it’s probably shot and there’s no fuel on the bike so I know it won’t turn over but since the guy replaced the starter last year the reason it’s probably not engaging is probably due to lack of battery power, yeah? I figure that’s the most likely cause because even when I hit the start button the lights all dim and everything so the battery has no juice…

Also, I used the brakes to help stop the bike as we rolled into the garage yesterday and now the wheels have little range of motion; my guess is that there’s too much pressure at the calipers and bleeding them should resolve that… the pedals all have properly return so I don’t think the returns to the MC are clogged, and it seems the fluid level is a bit high. Any other thoughts?

[biguns]

Hi and welcome , In regards to the brakes your seal are likely swollen causing them to stick, new seals will solve this, if the dust boots and other rubber parts are good you can get away with just the seals but you may have pitting in the piston so best to strip them down and figure out what you need first.
A good battery is essential for these bikes so start with a good battery , either charge and test what you have or buy a new one, if you get a volt meter you can put the red lead from the meter directly on the starter and ground the black wire have a friend push the start button and see that you have power to the starter, also be sure your ground wire from the battery is tight on the bike and battery post.
good luck with your project.

[Jcook1023]

Awesome, thanks so much for your suggestion! I picked up a new battery today and that definitely did the trick. I was planning on checking out the brakes anyway to see how the pads look so I’ll definitely investigate the seals and all of that while I’ve got it apart! I still have to replace the clutch plates, so I’m likely writing off the rest of this riding season and going to methodically getting everything good to go one piece at a time and ride fresh in the spring!

[OldguyGlen]

Welcome to the forum.
What makes you believe it needs new clutch plates. Symptoms? These clutches are known to last a long, long time. Bike miles?? Check cables. Change oil, using a proper wet-clutch type oil.

[Jcook1023]

It’s got 62,000 on it and the guy I bought it from said the clutch went in April…he was going to replace it but didn’t know how so he gave me plates for it. He said he kept tightening the cable and finally it wouldn’t engage anymore. I don’t mind doing the work, especially since I have everything for an oil change and the plates anyway

[OldguyGlen]

He said he kept tightening the cable and finally it wouldn’t engage anymore.

His method sounds backward. Maybe it's too tight now. Tighten the cable too much and it won't engage. Loosen it too much and it won't disengage. (I assume we mean engage=drive the wheel, disengage=won't drive the wheel.)

[Jcook1023]

It’s possible! It’s stuck in gear currently…when I pull the clutch lever it doesn’t have a lot of free play and doesn’t allow me to pull up into neutral. Think it’s worth adjusting it a bit before replacing things?

[OldguyGlen]

The lever should have minimal free play. Just enough that it actually goes slack with the lever released. If you pull the lever full on, the clutch should release and you can shift. Sometimes it may not shift real easy with the engine off. Sometimes a long stored bike will have the clutch plates somewhat seized. You can try various methods to break them free. Then, with use, they free up ok. Try to get the bike into 5th gear. Put it on the center stand with rear wheel raised and jiggle the rear wheel while attempting the shift (engine off). Once in 5th gear, pull the lever, start the engine. Use caution where you are pointed, in case the bike accidentally comes off the center stand. Assuming the clutch is still somewhat seized, the rear wheel is spinning. Jab the brake to shock the clutch into slipping. Don't let it kill the engine. Keep the lever pulled in. With luck, the seized clutch will start slipping and work itself into normal operation.

[WingAdmin]

If the brakes are stuck on, the cause is usually a plugged return port in the master cylinder. Have a look here: viewtopic.php?p=13777#p13777

[Jcook1023]

The lever should have minimal free play. Just enough that it actually goes slack with the lever released. If you pull the lever full on, the clutch should release and you can shift.

It doesn’t go slack when released; I have to manually move it to its “top” position. I think that’s why the guy I bought it from thinks the clutch needs replacing. I haven’t had a chance to check into things since I got it home…hoping this weekend I can drain the oil and take a better look into things!

[OldguyGlen]

If I read you right, it looks like the lever/cable might be stuck. I'd release the cable down at the clutch actuation lever on the engine. Then check the cable/handlebar lever for free movement. If everthing cable related looks good, then test the lever at the engine. It will be stiff (hard to actuate without the leverage of the cable). But try to move it up/down. It should be smooth, and strong spring return to its lowest position. If all that looks good, then stuck plates might be the only problem. But if the lever action at the engine doesn't move, or doesn't return, then you've got trouble internally. And it's probably not just worn plates. As that lever rotates, it presses inward on a short rod that releases the strong clutch spring pressure. Optimistically you'll hopefully find it's just a cable problem. Those inner pieces don't often fail. When you drain the oil, examine it for metal or clutch plate debris. Good luck!

[Jcook1023]

i took a few minutes to look at things further last night and was able to get it out of gear and back into neutral; i had to squeeze the lever all the way down to get it to shift out of gear. when i looked at the clutch adjustment near the engine, the previous owner had it adjusted all the way down (as in as tight as it could)...im very intrigued to see what i see when i drain the oil. im leaning towards friday for that, as tonight and tomorrow are going to be hectic. fingers crossed that all is good and, in the worst case, i install the new clutch plates he gave me!

[Rambozo]

Don't rule out cable stretch. Every cable operated Honda I have owned, needed a clutch cable at some time. More than one broke out on the road too. Always fun to ride home without a clutch.

[Jcook1023]

Oh man I never thought about the cable stretching…that’s a damn good thought!

[Jcook1023]

Welp…here’s hoping someone smarter than myself can give me a thought… I drained the oil tonight and it had a shimmery appearance to it and smelled strongly of gas. The gas I know - I have a carburetor that’s got a leaky float and I forgot to shut off the fuel valve. However, would that also cause the shimmer in the oil or is that more likely clutch material? I didn’t see any bits of anything metallic but the appearance of the oil leads me to believe that the friction material is smoked. I tried to take a picture but it’s after 9p and in a somewhat dark garage so tomorrow I will take one. Also, noticed a small drip near the oil pan and the 1100 cover (I know…very technical term but I’m an auto mechanic, motorcycle work is new to me and previously I had a Hyosung so the Goldwing is brandy-new to me); shy of taking things apart and replacing gaskets, any thoughts? Could that be due to the fuel leaking? It didn’t do that before I gassed it up some to run the engine…

[Jcook1023]

Not the best pictures but gives a pretty fair idea of the color of the oil…

[biguns]

The filter would give you an idea of and if anything is wearing, tough call on the color, I want to say fresh oil just turning color from combustion, gas will certainly thin out the fuel and make it smell gassy, second pic looks more normal, first one has a touch of crème to it.

[Jcook1023]

You think? I’ve only dealt with oil that’s either completely fresh or a couple thousand miles past due for changing hahaha. There wasn’t really anything of any significance in the filter so would you think the plates are potentially ok? Is it worth potentially pulling them anyway just to check ‘‘em out?

[biguns]

I wouldn't replace the clutch till you know for sure, fix the cable adjust it properly, I think someone mentioned you may have stuck clutch plates.
The way you get them unstuck is using the engine power so it needs to run, if you can start it in a high gear sometimes that will unstick them, if you can put the fron wheel against a wall for safety then lift the rear wheel and run the engine in gear it might unstick.

[Jcook1023]

We’ve got positive direction seemingly. I changed the oil in the bike and adjusted the cable a bit…the clutch is shifting to all gears easily so it definitely seems as though the issue in with the cable. I have a new one being delivered this week so hopefully that resolves that. Now for a new question…

I ran the bike for a bit in the garage to cycle to oil and whatnot, and like a dummy popped it into gear with the kickstand down thus “stalling” the engine. Now I’ve got the oil light on (if memory serves, that’s typical/normal), but I can’t the bike to start again. I’m hearing a clicking from the starter solenoid but no engagement from the starter so I’m inclined to think I’ve drained the battery some by trying to kick it over so I’m charging it a bit and going to try again later. Would anyone have any other thoughts?

[Rambozo]

Is the neutral light on?

[Jcook1023]

Is the neutral light on?

Yup. I threw the charger on and it showed the battery at low charge so it’s doing it’s thing currently. Will see what happens and update once it’s done

[Jcook1023]

So still no go. Starter solenoid clicks but no engagement from the starter itself. It was running until I put it into gear with the kickstand down and stalled it. Just did an oil change and it’s full, so I know that’s not the issue. Any thoughts? Sorry, I took this on and am running into things I should have but didn’t expect and not sure what to do!

[OldguyGlen]

Stalling the engine should have no effect on the ability to re-start it. Take a voltmeter and check voltage at the cable terminal right on the starter motor when the solenoid clicks. You are tracing whether the solenoid is not passing current to starter, or the starter isn't functioning. Could be bad connections on starter cables, or bad ground on battery negative cable.

[Jcook1023]

Good thought. I noticed that one of the terminal screws on the solenoid had a loose connection so I tightened that down, but still not doing anything. If memory serves, I should be seeing at the very least 12v if not a bit more yeah?