No juice to starter

[dummysales]

I’m a bit ignorant of electrical stuff, so bear with me.

83 Aspencade GL1100A

What I know:
Cleaned starter button switch and have continuity through switch when pressed.
Continuity continues through headlight/counterweight connectors.

Continuity through RED wire on key switch good to solenoid.

Solenoid checked by Honda shop and they said, it’s clicking.

Battery has held 12.4 volts since this project started when I disconnected the positive lead. (The battery normally drained when sitting for three or four days; likely the yellow stator wire issue). Soldered the yellow wires and no drain since then.

The problem: absolutely no response from new starter (likely didn’t need it) when I turn the ignition switch to on (green neutral light and red light come on in dash) and press the starter button. No sounds I can hear, nothing.

So what stupid little thing is preventing the starter from turning over?

[OldguyGlen]

There are several other threads on here regarding solenoid wiring... some with pictures.
Short summary: First confirm whether it is clicking or not. Listen, and/or feel it while pressing Start Button. If not clicking focus on the 4 smaller wires in the connector. While it's still connected to the solenoid, the following should be true. If connector is off, then testing will be slightly different, but you can deduce that from the explanation of each wire function. Diagrams are available on line, and in other threads here.
Red= power to the Ignition Sw. Should have 12v all the time.
Red/White = power from charging rectifier. Should have 12v all the time as it is tied to the Red wire in the solenoid.
The other 2 are where your problem probably is...
Yellow/Red = power from the start button when pressed. 12v only with ign on and button pressed.
Green/Red = Solenoid ground. It connects to frame ground via interlocks for safety. That's the neutral shift and clutch bypass. If it has 12v also while pressing start button, then one of those safety items isn't grounding. If it is connected to ground, then it won't show any volts. (maybe just 1 volt if the diode is in the circuit)
I assume it's original with the dogbone fuse. If it's an aftermarket, then some wire colors may vary.

[dummysales]

Thanks, Glen.

I’ll look for the two safety grounds. Probably that. Sure appreciate the help.

Waj

[dummysales]

The neutral switch light comes on, so I’m assuming it’s the clutch switch, which I think is the unit on the left handle bar location. Will check that tomorrow. Cheers.

[dummysales]

After checking the voltage appearance as recommended by Glen, the errant one is the green/red wire which maintains 12 volts when the starter button is pressed.

Since the neutral switch green light comes on in the dash, I'm assuming that safety switch is working. Am I wrong? or is there additional way to tell?

The green/red wire has continuity from the solenoid to the handlebars through the wire attached to the clutch lever housing. However, it maintains 12 volts when the start button is pressed.

When I had the engine out to replace the starter, drain the anti-freeze pipes, etc, the wire for the safety switches was removed. Is it possible I reversed the front safety switch polarity when reinstalling that two, round pronged plug? Would that kill the switch function?

[OldguyGlen]

If the neutral light works then the neutral switch is OK. The solenoid G/R wire goes through a diode before it joins the neutral circuit. Maybe diode is blown?
If the G/R wire gets to the clutch switch, it goes to ground through the switch and the other wire... could be bad switch or that ground wire doesn't reach ground. Try shorting the hot G/R wire to ground directly.
I'm not sure what the round plug does.

[dummysales]

The round pronged plug is the antifreeze temp sensor.

Gotta pull the air cleaner
Stuff apart to get to the diode, I think.