Won't start only clicks


Information and questions on GL1100 Goldwings (1980-1983)
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Asylum
Posts: 2
Joined: Sat Apr 01, 2023 4:34 pm
Location: Canada
Motorcycle: GL 1100 1983

Won't start only clicks

Post by Asylum »



I'm having problems starting my goldwing. I've replaced the solenoid and starter and had the battery load tested. All I'm getting is a single click at the solenoid. Clutch in, neutral light on, kickstand up. What am I missing? On further looking through the forums it seems there might be a coolant temperature sensor. I currently have the fairing, radiator and timing covers off from another repair. Could the lack of the rad and coolant be my issue?


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OldguyGlen
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1980 GL1100 STD/Vetters
1966 Honda 90

Re: Won't start only clicks

Post by OldguyGlen »

Don't worry about the radiator, it has no affect on starter. You need to do a basic voltage trace from battery to starter motor. Using a voltmeter or test light look for 12 vdc power at the battery +post, then follow that cable to the solenoid and test there. With the solenoid active (clicked ), check the other cable/post, then follow that cable to the starter motor. If you still have power at the starter and it still won't spin, it's probably a bad starter. All voltage checks are relative to frame ground/battery neg post.
Asylum
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Joined: Sat Apr 01, 2023 4:34 pm
Location: Canada
Motorcycle: GL 1100 1983

Re: Won't start only clicks

Post by Asylum »

I did trace the voltage today. I think I've tracked it down to a dead starter.
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Rednaxs60
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Re: Won't start only clicks

Post by Rednaxs60 »

If the starter has failed, take it off and into your local electrical shop, should be able to rebuild for you.
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dummysales
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Motorcycle: 1983 Aspencade 1100
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Re: Won't start only clicks

Post by dummysales »

I can feel your dilemma, Asylum. My 83 Aspencade failed to start. After replacing the starter, solenoid, and tracing wires through the headlight bucket, starter switch, and starter button, all the wiring seemed fit. Then I heard about the 3 amp diode (often called rectifier). The diode is a one-way switch. Testing the circuit one way will result in a 3 ohm resistance. Reversing the leads should show nothing.

This little ditty resides in my wiring harness behind the down tube on the left side (astride) of the fake gas tank twin frame features (one on top and one under it by five inches or so). I had to take all the electrics hanging on the left frame members off in order to see where it was. Then I had to lift the wiring harness with a big ugly screwdriver for leverage in order to remove it.

I'm no electrician, and this job has me stumped. Either I have a bad solenoid, or I've shorted the circuits too often. I haven't had the patience to go back and tear the wiring all apart to check the continuity again. Then the only other question I have concerning the starter circuit is whether or not the fairing and wire harness to it must be connected in order to start the bike. Anyone?


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