GL1100 Front Brakes 101 (HELP)

[JohnB1953]

I have been working on a 1981 wing that has been in the shed way too long. It came to me as a lite roll over Tri wing trike back in about 2014. I tried to get it running but had sat too long and carbs were junk. It was cheaper to buy a different wing and swap parts so that was what I did. This one went into the shed until this last fall. I got it running with the aid of a single carb setup and seems to work well so I continued on with the rebuild. I had to replace the rear master cylinder with one I saw used on YouTube. It was a challenge but got it going after a caliper rebuild new line and lots of custom bracket making.
So on to the front. Shouldn't be a big deal New eBay master cylinder, 2 caliper kits, and new brake hoses. Everything looked good cleaned up well and installed ok with the aid of some DYI articles from here. I have tried everything I can find to do but cannot get the system to bleed. It seems like it is going to but never gets firm on the handle. Dut the slightest pressure on the handle the brakes engage. I have tried every trick I can find, and nothing is working. I am about to take it off and try each part together and see if I have a bad cylinder, hose, or caliper. But before I do that does anyone have anything that I could try. I have to have to start all over again, but brakes are kind of important. This is what the trike looked like when I got it. Thanks JohnB

[Rambozo]

How are you bleeding it? Sometimes only pressure or vacuum bleeding will get all the air out. In extreme cases reverse pressure bleeding can be the answer as you are going the way the air wants to go.

[OldguyGlen]

I didn't have pressure or vacuum bleed equipment, so here's what I did:
Perform a "bleed" procedure at the banjo fitting at the master cylinder. Then at the crossover fitting, and again at the wheel calipers. Use a lot of towels or rags to catch the fluid and keep it off painted surfaces.
Finally, pump and clamp the handlebar lever using bungee cords. Let it sit overnight.
Clamping the lever keeps pressure in the system, which in turn makes the air bubbles smaller, thus helping them migrate through tiny spaces.
... and if that doesn't do enough, repeat the whole procedure.
Incidentally, I just did all this on my '80 when I installed braided lines. I love the results !

[Sig45227]

I've been using a large syringe and clear vinyl tubing for years to help push or pull bubbles out of the brake line systems. Speed bleeders will also help but will only allow you to push from the master cylinder.

Amazon has syringes pretty cheap, sometimes your local farm supply stores will have them on the livestock section.

Syringe