'83 Goldwing Push Start issues

[GoldRacer]

Hello everyone! I am new to the forum and I am rebuilding a 1983 Honda Goldwing with my son. We are very new to motorcycles, but have a full workshop and have done extensive work on cars (built 89 Bronco, 1972 Buick GS, etc.). So I am not a dumbass, but I sort of am with motorcycles.

The bike in question runs and drives, but only when you short the solenoid. Previous owner(s) made a mess of the wiring. We have been going through everything and fixing bad splices with soldering and heat shrink, cleaning components, checking continuity etc.

We purchased a new push button start, OEM style. We cannot get this thing to start with the button. We are in neutral, clutch depressed, key on and nothing. As I stated, we can hot wire it no problem. We have also purchased a new solenoid and tried that. There are two wires plus the 9 pin connector on the start button, not sure what the two wires go to, but it is connected and continuity looks good (I think). We did do some testing of voltage at the solenoid when the key is on and the start button is pushed, we get 12 volts (yellow and green wires), fuses all look good.

Previous owner was not mechanical and never tried to fix, except wiring up a lot of LED lights which have been removed now. I think the owner prior to that started a cafe racer/bobber conversion so we are missing all gages, etc, it is basically naked.

I am trying to chase down the handlebar clutch switch wiring. I have been reading the service manual and researching online and realized I have a two pin connector on the clutch handled that is not attached to anything, could this be our issue? I cannot find the connectors, have chased down the wiring diagram, but I am having a hard time figuring out where these wires would go to. Any help here? Any other thoughts on why it won't start with the new push button (I suppose it could be bad, but hoping not).

Thank you!

[Rambozo]

The clutch switch is wired to allow starting in gear with the clutch pulled. It has no effect if the bike is in neutral. Without the gauges I wouldn't even guess what is hooked up and what isn't.
There is a diode for the neutral light that if blown will not allow starting without a working clutch switch and the clutch pulled. Check at the solenoid coil for power and ground when you push the button. The start button/kill switch/etc. provides the power, and the neutral switch/clutch switch/etc. provides the ground. See which one you are missing and proceed from there.

Do you have a headlight? The headlight bucket is full of connections.
If you do have a headlight, it should go off when you press the start button.

Be aware that many aftermarket starting solenoids are not wired the same as the OEM. They work, but you have to trace out how the four terminals are wired and hook them up appropriately. You might want to go back to the OEM one for testing.

You do have the right wiring diagram for this bike?

[GoldRacer]

Thank you.

We do have a headlight but it is aftermarket and LED so the wiring was messy and we have taken it out. We have put the old solenoid back in and tested the wires we do get 12 volts when the start button is pressed. I have read a lot online about he clutch switch and at this point, to satisfy my curiosity, would love to know what the two connectors on the clutch switch get wired to.

So if anyone knows what the story is with how those are wired in that would be very helpful. Wires come off the clutch switch/handlebar and go where? To what colors? Can we bypass it somehow?

I am also looking at the diodes and have found one, assuming the correct one.

Right now the main goal is to get it to start with the start push button, then we will start tearing the rest of the bike down. I just want it to start before we go nuts. We appreciate the help.

[Rambozo]

I'm guessing you have no neutral light?
Is the neutral switch even connected?
If you have power at the solenoid when the button is pushed, you must be missing the ground signal. That is provided by either the neutral switch or the clutch switch.
The clutch switch has two wires, a green that goes to a ground point and a green/red that goes to the starter solenoid. That green/red also has a splice that goes to the neutral switch via a diode to ground the neutral light.
Check that the green wire to the clutch switch is grounded. Then check that the green/red gets ground when the clutch is pulled. You can short those two wires together to bypass the switch for testing. You could also just ground the terminal on the starter solenoid. Be aware you will lose all safeties, but the bike should start.

[GoldRacer]

Rambozo - I think you are on to something.

The bike is a bit of a basket case, but it is meant to be a project. So we are fine with the work and effort. Spent some more time yesterday chasing wires, checking continuity etc. We did find that the diode that is under the false tank bundled in the wiring harness had no continuity so ordered a new one.

On the clutch perch we have what we think is the original clutch handle, has the two pins for wire connectors. Your note on the colors and where they go is exactly what I was after. Seems the Green/red stripe wire is important to just about anything starting related.

We do not have a neutral light, but we are currently in neutral. I plan to wire up a temp neutral light soon just for testing before we explore gages.

Does the green wire on the clutch switch just need to be grounded to the frame somewhere, if so that is easy. The Green/Red wire that goes to the neutral switch and diode, where are those located?

Appreciate your help!

[OldguyGlen]

Location of the start/neutral light diode... quoted from WingAdmin in another thread :

"There is a diode mounted to the left side of the frame, underneath the false tank, near the turn signal flasher. "

If I recall correctly, it is a bit hard to find. It is black and tucked along side of other bundled cables. It is a small, cubical shape plastic item, plugged into a mating connector.

[GoldRacer]

Thanks, I did find that and ordered a new diode arriving today.

We will chase down the rest of the wires this weekend. Do you know if the G/R wire and G wire on the clutch perch have a specific orientation? Meaning, there are two connections, does it matter which is which when wiring?

Thanks again!

[OldguyGlen]

The Clutch handle switch (in electrical terms) is an isolated single pole, single throw contact. That means the 2 wires can go on either side of the connection tabs.

[GoldRacer]

Thank you! Diode arrived and we will be tackling Saturday. Fingers crossed for a start. I think we are close.