I was having charging problems and wanted to check everything before i ended up pulling the motor to change out the stator. looks as if i'm going to have to replace the regulator and butt joint all those connections. I'm looking for pointers so that this repair goes well and will last. Any and all tips are welcome, thank-you to all those who help 
No, that bracket is not electrically connected to anything. It is fine without being mounted.dwight007fchr wrote:Also, some more clues that may help solve my problem:
1. I did not mount the Relay to the motorcycle frame. The relay has a small metal bracket coming off it, but I figured that with the green ground running to it, that it does not have to be mounted to metal. Could this be a problem?
That is where the connector for the infamous "three yellow wires" goes. A previous owner has removed that problematic connector and soldered the wire directly (it is zip-tied to the battery ground in your picture).dwight007fchr wrote:I do hear the Relay click on/off when I turn the switch key on/off......so, I think it is working fine.
2. Also, a curiosity for me is the missing connection that should be inserted alongside the other connector just to the left of the battery in this picture:
Do you have any idea if there is supposed to be a connector here? Maybe a prior owner removed something?
That connector is for the main fuse and starter solenoid. If it wasn't working, you would have no power at all, and/or would not be able to crank the engine. If you turn the key switch on and the headlight comes on, then there's nothing wrong with that connector. That said, WD-40 won't cause shorts - although it does leave an oily residue, and on that high-amperage connector, you might want to spray it out with some actual electrical contact cleaner instead of WD-40.dwight007fchr wrote:WingAdmin....Thanks for your help.
1. Ok, the Relay does not have to be mounted with a ground to the frame....thats good.
2. OK.....so the prior owner must have already read one of your many helpful suggestions and already eliminated that connection.....I should have seen that....guess my mind was foggy.
3. Now the big problem....why she wont start. Yes, I did ensure that the Kill Switch was not on (up beside the throttle).
So, based on what you are saying, all of my splicing and soldering connections and relay should have no affect on the spark to the plugs....thats good to know.
Now, would you rule out my idea that when I sprayed a WD40-type lube into that 4 wire connector to the right of the battery (in the prior pictures above), that maybe this is creating some arcing/grounding, and not allowing the current to flow properly? Is this the connector that goes to my coils?
Many thanks.
dwight
Virgil........Howdie friend. Thanks for your input.....I will now check for spark. Regarding the pulse coil plug, I believe that is the one which my finger is pointing to in the picture and I was asking why it was missing......and WingAdmin said it had been cut and probably soldered by the prior owner, as he could see the wires taped under black electrical tape and tied to the battery ground cable. So, I would assume that these pulse coil wires are still ok.virgilmobile wrote:Sorry,I've been gone a bit....
I agree with the Admin....Everything you worked on will have no affect on the engines ability to start and your wiring looks fine.
Pull one plug wire and stick a spare plug on it and crank the engine to verify if you do or do not have spark.
You were working in the area of the ignition wiring.....Next to the battery(3 yellow wires) there is a 4 wire plug....it's the pulse coil plug....verify it's clean and tight too.
It appears that you'r working on a gl1100..right?
virgilmobile wrote:Start the bike.Use a DVM directly across the batt posts.You should be seeing from 13.8 to 14.4 volts as the rpm. goes from idle to 3000 rpm.
Check your water level in the battery at least or charge it for 24 hours on a trickle charged and then have it load tested.
The volts while running even with a bad battery should not go over 14.6 volts.
Let us know what it measures now with the relay mod.
with the relay, the black wire on the regulator should be exactly the same as the battery voltage.Measure If you like just so it's clear what you did actually fixed the problem.
No.... red to the regulator black ,meter black to the battery positive.....While running,it used to measure around 1 volt DC...it now should be near zero.I should put the Red test lead on the Relay's No. 30 terminal (Regulator Black) and the Black test lead to the battery Negative post?
No....measure the battery volts directly on the battery posts while running...13.5 or so at a idle and peaking to 14.5 max....Then compare this reading with the test meter on the battery's Pos. and Neg. posts.
No....The 3 yellow wires that are taped up are the stator wires....1 inch to the left is a 4 wire plug.....It's the pulse coil wires....My 86 had corrosion in the contact and if bumped,it would kill the engine.Regarding the pulse coil plug, I believe that is the one which my finger is pointing to in the picture and I was asking why it was missing......and WingAdmin said it had been cut and probably soldered by the prior owner, as he could see the wires taped under black electrical tape and tied to the battery ground cable. So, I would assume that these pulse coil wires are still ok.
