Started my Poorboy Alternator Conversion

[vern38]

Well I have most all my parts and took the plunge today and started to tear down the bike for the alternator conversion. I special ordered a 3 3/8" dia Motor Pulley 12mm bore from RDG Tools Ltd in the UK so I wouldn't have to make any modifications to the pulley. Ordered the CHEVY MINI ALTERNATOR DENSO STREET ROD RACE 1-WIRE from DB electrical and pretty much have everything else in my shop with the exception of some bolts, belt, charging cable and the 50 amp inline breaker fuse. The way it's looking unless something goes really wrong I can pull this off for under $200.00. Of course that's not counting my time but hey just so long I don't have to pay someone labor all is good. There is a couple issues I am going to have to work around and repair especially the messed up stud for the radiator the previous owner messed up.

[mccayre]

Let me know if you have any problems. I did my 1986 about two years ago and I have never looked back.

[vern38]

On the hose in front of the timing cover what did you do with that? Maker a longer hose and go around the end of the timing cover. I have removed the brace ground down where it was cut out and painted where it was removed. Right now I'm working on the brackets. So far so good

[vern38]

Be sure to put a nut on the bolt where you are grinding or you wont have a bolt left, this is the nut I used or at least whats left of it.

[vern38]

After 7 days of rain got a chance to do some more work on the alternator conversion plus replace the timing belts. I read somewhere where someone took a steel bar and run it threw the back wheel and frame to break loose the crankshaft bolt, didn't work to well for me bent 2 steel bars. Wife stood on the bike with both brakes locked down in first gear and the rear wheel blocked. When that puppy broke loose thought I broke the bolt it snapped so loud. Mounted the pully I ordered from the UK and it was a perfect fin no spacers needed.

[WingAdmin]

That's really where impact wrenches excel. Instead of massive force, with the danger of bending or breaking something, it uses sharp impacts to break the fastener free.

[thrasherg]

I hope you had put the gearbox in top NOT 1st gear to try that steel bar trick!! Top gear has the lowest mechanical advantage and probably would not have bent the steel bar!! Just a note for next time.. As Wingadmin says, impact wrenches are your best friend here, just make sure you have it set to undo the bolt!!

Gary

[vern38]

Would have been nice to have an impact wrench that was the first thing that came to mind when I couldn't get the bolt loose. You did leave one thing out watch out if your wrench slips in my case when the bolt broke loose it was with so much force in the upward position that my hand hit the engine guard mounting bolt and frame causing a nasty gash and bad bruise. Thought I was going to have to go get stitches but after washing all the blood off it was just into the hide (blood thinners causes bad bleeding). Sore but glad I'm past that part moving on to finishing up the top bracket so I can line pulleys up.

[vern38]

Moving along cut the brace mount back a little more to get rid of the hook effect and make more clearance for the alternator pulley. Also modified the timing belt covers to accommodate the pulley on the crankshaft. Looks nice and clean

[vern38]

Metal bracket parts finished. Now need to line up everything weld the upper 2 pieces together and see how it all looks before I start the final assembly.

[vern38]

Update of the day... Houston we have a problem! Well not that bad have to remake the lower bracket just a little to short or high enough on the alternator end I kinda figured that by the way it looked the other day when I was fooling around with it. No big deal... The pulleys line up perfect and it's going to fit under the fairings without any modifications you will never see it unless you look threw the side louvers.

[vern38]

Back at it after a 4 day break. Re-did lower bracket and test fitted the alternator with the brackets and it's looking good.

[vern38]

I know everyone who has done the poorboy conversion using a 2 point mounting system have gone thousands of miles with no problems however that 3/8" bolt at the front side of alternator does have a small amount of flex (not much) but I want mine solid like in a car so I added a front bracket and it is solid as a rock. There is no way it is going to move now. You know that's the great thing about doing things like this on your own you can customize the install the way you want it. Call it overkill but I call it insurance...

[vern38]

Brackets finished and ready for Saturday. Time to start putting the bike back together...

[jtimgrant]

Awesome job. I will take this route when my stator dies. Can you give a bit more info on what you did to the timing belt covers? How much did you remove etc.

tim

[vern38]

Hello Tim, on the timing belt covers I marked the center of crankshaft location on the edge of each cover took a rat tail file and made a pilot hole. Then with the help of an extra set of hands I took a 2 and 1/4 inch hole saw and cut out a hole in the center where the two covers meet. I did have to do a little clean up and the hole was just over 2 and a 1/4 inches when I finished.

[Whippet]

I saw your post on po boy and had to do mine as the alternator is toast on my 84 GL 1200 it took two full days . I got to play with my metal lathe to make the radiator stand offs ,I used the same size pulleys the alternator is from a Toyota fork lift is all fits under the fairing . I put about a 100 miles on it first time out it works great Thanks for the help Whippet from NW AR.

[vern38]

Well the rain gods rained upon me again today but that didn't stop me. Here it is my charging problems are over All that's left to do is make standoffs for the radiator mount a 10 inch push fan on it install a auto voltage meter and finish putting it back together. Oh yea the hose I was talking about that runs from the block to the lower radiator fitting that's in front of the timing covers. My solution was to use a smaller belt (not as wide) and it cleared the hose by about 1\4 of an inch. You can see it in the next to the last picture.

[vern38]

Repaired the bad radiator mount on right side and cut both mounts down and threaded them to make the standoffs. Nothing high tech here just used unions, bolt stock and fender washers oh and lots of Locktite Threadlocker. After the repairs and standoffs were made the radiator was reinstalled. Getting close

[vern38]

Well tonight was the test run, started out by putting on the lower hose filled her up with antifreeze and hooked the wiring up. Hit the key and it was running first try I don't know if I mentioned that I changed the timing belts or not but man what a difference that makes. When I changed them the right side had way to much slack and had jumped a tooth now there is no more valve chatter it is quite and smooth. As for the alternator it was a success at idle it is showing 11.5 volts and when you throttle it up is stays steady at 13.5 volts. The bike just seams to run so much better can't wait to finish it up and take it out on the road.

[vern38]

Pics of the lower hose, wiring and fan modifications. Not to fond of the plastic mounting hardware for the fan definably going to fix that. I don't know about anyone else but I had a offset where the radiator connects to the block but found a hose that has just enough bend in the right places. You do have to cut the end of it off where it bends at the end but it works great (NAPA 7462) Getting closer every day.

[vern38]

Didn't do much tonight but I did remount the fan. I was able to easily pop of the cheap plastic zip tie mounts. Your not going to do that with these you will need a set of wrenches.

[vern38]

Wired in the fan tonight using the original wiring and ran wiring for a bypass switch as well. Tested it tonight and it works great cools the bike down twice as fast as the other fan did.

[vern38]

Yesterday I changed the oil in the forks to make sure the front suspension was stiff enough to clear the fan on bumps and stopping with front break, looks like it has never been changed since the bike was new. (I HOPE I DON'T HAVE TO DO THAT AGAIN FOR A LONG TIME)!!! It is almost impossible to get the caps back on the forks when you take them off the springs are so stiff. Glad I had the help from Mr. Skill...

[vern38]

Couldn't do much today due to the rain so I made brackets for the broken mounting tabs (courtesy of the previous owner) and mounted the volt meter and switches on the top right glove box cover.