progressive front fork springs

[roadwanderer2]

i know wingadmin and others have said by replacing the OEM front fork springs with progressives will eliminate the need to put air in the front forks on a 1100, but is the same true for an 86 aspy SEi or would i still have to put air in them? im thinking about replacing the OEM front springs with progressive springs and wondering if i'll still need to put air into the forks.

stuart.

[twocams]

Dont you like the air ride?

Twocams

[Rednaxs60]

Put new Race Tech fork springs and Race Tech Gold Valves in the front of my '85 LE. I no longer need to put air in the front forks. The rear shocks have also made a huge difference and can be installed easily when on the softest setting. I have them set at the second softest setting.

Progressive Springs were the first consideration; however, parts availability was an issue. Ricor valves were the first choice but were not available for the front forks.

The damping rod had to have the compression damping orifices enlarged to approximately 1/2 inch and two added to make 4 total.

This is a list of what was done.

Progressive suspension rear shocks 1200 - 76-1206B
Progressive suspension rear shock springs - 76-1364B
Race Tech Emulators 33.5/26.1/17.0 - 377-2132
Race Tech Fork Springs FRSP 3234 1.0 kg - frsp323410
Maxima Fork oil 20W - 16 ounces
Fork seal dust and oil seal kit 41ml - 51490-MN8
41ml guide bushing - 51414-KCR

Cheers

Ernest

[roadwanderer2]

Dont you like the air ride?

Twocams

i do like the air ride, but with the way this bike is handling, when i brake, the front just flat out dives down to where it seems like the springs are bottoming out so i think they've seen better days. id rather do away with the air type front suspension by replacing them with progressive springs. i found a shop that will put them in along with new dust boots, oil seals and replace the fork fluid for me for $200.00, and i get the springs, so im gonna go ahead and let them do it next month.

stuart.

[oldishwinger]

I've had the progressives in my 86 aspy for some time now, whether you need air with them really is up to you, as to what you are comfortable with. normally with OEM the maximum air for the front is 6lb progressives give a slightly stiffer ride, hence the idea of not needing air, but if you feel the need, for air there is no issues in applying it.

Progressives also call for a 15 weight oil, but I decided to stay with ATF and have never regretted putting them in, they are an easier install, than OEM as well.

[roadwanderer2]

'mornin oldish. thank you for your input on this, i'll keep the need for air in mind. do i have to make any changes to the air fittings on the suspension or leave it as is.

stuart.

[oldishwinger]

'mornin oldish. thank you for your input on this, i'll keep the need for air in mind. do i have to make any changes to the air fittings on the suspension or leave it as is.

stuart.

Glad to help, no changes to the air system are required, the springs should fit without any modification.

[roadwanderer2]

ok, same topic, different question.....i just bought a complete pair of front forks with new dust boots and seals,(see pic).......my question is........do remove and replace my forks with these, how hard of a job would it be. has anyone done this that might be able to tell me? the only thing i have to replace on them are the rubber caliper bolt boots. from what i saw im my repair manual it also says i have to replace the 4 "O" rings that are on the air pipe between both forks. can i possibly get away with using the old "O" rings if they look ok? should i also take apart the anti-dive and rebuild it while i have the forks on the bench? or leave them "as is" and have my original forks completely rebuilt from bottom to top and keep them as spares.

stuart.

[jamie f]

I've posted previously about my front suspension,but can't find the thread.Anyway,on the advice of this forums members,I put progressive springs in my 86 Aspy,new seals and new 15 wt oil.right away i noticed that even without any air it sat up better than it ever had with original springs.I then proceeded to put 2 bars of air in front as usual(have digital dash)and take it for a spin.Front end didnt hardly dive on braking,but was a pretty rough ride.I then completely read the instructions,and noticed they recommend setting number 1 on anti dive dampeners,and start with no air, ride and adjust accordingly.What a difference,she rides and handles like never before.Takes corners like I never thought a heavy bike could.Thanks everyone who posted on my previous thread!!

[roadwanderer2]

hey jamie, thanks for this little bit of information. i'll keep that in mind when i put the progressive springs in the forks.

stuart.

[thompsoj22]

just my 2 cents. just did seals/dust boots on my 86 front forks. didn't do the bushings based upon cost and sourcing. the job had great results with improved dampening, handling and no leaks. how many miles were on the bike the new to you forks came off of? the problem with a 30 year old bike is that the lower legs wear in the slider bore, install the forks as is. Don't take apart the anti dive, the parts are hard to get. the 4 packings/"o" rings on the air servicing/equalizing component can be reused as I did. I simply removed them and cleaned their seat positions and used pet on the install, understand they are 30 years old so so plan for the worst and hope for the best!. mine did not leak, however after riding the bike and getting familiar with it I recommend no air, it accentuates the "head shake" that these bikes are prone to. so install the new forks and see if you like the result, any total rework of the fork/anti dive should be done on your original forks as you have knowledge of their history. Im a Harley guy but bought my 86I off a buddy that bought a electraglide, I love this bike and im willing to suffer the insults and "you ride in the back" attitudes whenever I show up on my 86I relic!

[roadwanderer2]

just my 2 cents. just did seals/dust boots on my 86 front forks. didn't do the bushings based upon cost and sourcing. the job had great results with improved dampening, handling and no leaks. how many miles were on the bike the new to you forks came off of? the problem with a 30 year old bike is that the lower legs wear in the slider bore, install the forks as is. Don't take apart the anti dive, the parts are hard to get. the 4 packings/"o" rings on the air servicing/equalizing component can be reused as I did. I simply removed them and cleaned their seat positions and used pet on the install, understand they are 30 years old so so plan for the worst and hope for the best!. mine did not leak, however after riding the bike and getting familiar with it I recommend no air, it accentuates the "head shake" that these bikes are prone to. so install the new forks and see if you like the result, any total rework of the fork/anti dive should be done on your original forks as you have knowledge of their history. Im a Harley guy but bought my 86I off a buddy that bought a electraglide, I love this bike and im willing to suffer the insults and "you ride in the back" attitudes whenever I show up on my 86I relic!

these forks came off a running 86 SEi with only 27,xxx miles on them. they have new oil seals, dust boots and refiled with 15 oz's each of honda fork oil. only thing i have to replace on them are the rubber boots on the lower caliper sleeves where the sliders are on the anti-dive trac housings.

stuart.

[roadwanderer2]

i have a question.......the manual shows and tells how to remove the forks, it says also to remove the tank shelter. my question is this.....can i r&r these forks without taking the fairing off?

tomorrow i start removing the front forks on my 1200 aspy SEi and i want to do this as easy as possible. i bought the forks i mentioned in my earlier posting at below the quoted price. im leaving the springs that are in them alone.

stuart.

[Rednaxs60]

Had mine done at a shop and the fairings/false tank never came off.

[roadwanderer2]

thanks for that info Rednaxs.

stuart.

[roadwanderer2]

ok, so i "started" taking my bike's front end apart to remove the forks, and i came upon a problem, well, not a problem, more of a nuisance really......does anyone know how to remove the chrome fork covers that are on these SEi's? i was able to remove the caliper covers and the cap bolts that hold the fork covers to the fork brace, but i can't find where else they are bolted to so im at a standstill until i find out where these covers unbolt from.

stuart.

[WingAdmin]

ok, so i "started" taking my bike's front end apart to remove the forks, and i came upon a problem, well, not a problem, more of a nuisance really......does anyone know how to remove the chrome fork covers that are on these SEi's? i was able to remove the caliper covers and the cap bolts that hold the fork covers to the fork brace, but i can't find where else they are bolted to so im at a standstill until i find out where these covers unbolt from.

stuart.

Those are aftermarket...so it's anyone's guess.

Another user had them on his bike, and a third user took his off, so he might be able to help: Chrome Fork Covers

[roadwanderer2]

hey wingadmin, i found where they are bolted up at. they are bolted on the bottom front stud of the lower fork tubes where the axle hold down caps are. one more question, i have one fork out and while im trying to install the new-er one, there's a small round opening towards the top of the fork tube,( see pic below), does this opening have to be sitting in a certain position or does it matter.

stuart.

[WingAdmin]

That hole is for the air equalizer:

Shock Air Equalizer

It consists of two O-rings with a space in between. The space lines up with that little hole. This lets air out of one shock and into the other, so that the air pressure in the two shocks is the same (i.e. you pump up one shock and it pumps up both). Because the O-rings encircle the shocks, it doesn't matter which direction that little hole points, it will always be between the two O-rings.

[roadwanderer2]

thank you wingadmin for letting me know this. i was under the impression that they had to face a certain direction, and since i moved the tubes around while installing them, i wasn't sure where they were supposed to face . in the meantime, my "new-to-me" floorboards with the heel-toe shifter that my wife bought for me as a christmas present came today, and when i went to put them on, they wouldn't fit. they are for the 81-83 interstate, std, or aspencade not for the 86, so i have sent a letter to the ebay seller and let him know this and im requesting a full refund. i'll have to find them from somewhere else.

tomorrow i'll get back to work on the bike. im tired and my head hurts and im hungry lol. with having to take one of our cats to the vet this morning because of a large open wound on his left side, and now this, im about at my last wits.

the front tire is at a bike shop to have the new tire mounted and balanced. while im here, anyone want to buy a set of front rotor covers for an 86 GL1200 SEi?. im having them removed from the front axle and not putting them back on again. they are in decent shape, a little dirty, but should clean up really nice. i'll take $25.00 for the pair plus whatever the shipping cost is.

i forgot to mention, while removing the front brake calipers, i noticed the right caliper pads were worn down to just above the metal, so new front brake pads are on order. im NOT putting this bike back together with worn down front brake pads. and while im at it, i might as well replace all the caliper rubber boots.

stuart.

[roadwanderer2]

ok, next question.....the stop ring that's on the upper fork tubes, do they have to be in place before the tubes get up into the upper triple tree, OR, can i push the tubes up above the upper t/t then put the stop ring on and pull the tube back down until it locks into place.

stuart.

[thompsoj22]

im pretty sure the ring is there to correctly locate the fork tube depth in the air crossover component. simply slide the tube through the lower tree, install the ring in its groove and slide the tube up until it is seated into the upper assy.

[roadwanderer2]

im pretty sure the ring is there to correctly locate the fork tube depth in the air crossover component. simply slide the tube through the lower tree, install the ring in its groove and slide the tube up until it is seated into the upper assy.

thanks thompsoj, i'll give that a try. hopefully that will work.

stuart.

[roadwanderer2]

ok, new forks are installed and torqued in, new front tire mounted and balanced, im now waiting for the front brake pads to arrive so i can finish this project. i left the rotor covers and the chrome fork covers/lights. im not sure if i want to put the fork covers back on. IMO i think the forks look nicer without them. i like being able to see the rotors and forks without all that extra "stuff" in the way for when i have to remove something again. what was really difficult was trying to get to the speedo unit to unscrew it from the hub. i had to sneak between the rotor and rotor cover to get the screw drive up to the screw. i can do without the rotor covers. it's a shame, they're still in good shape. maybe someone else could use them?

there's a set on ebay..........http://www.ebay.com/itm/85-HONDA-GL1200 ... sP&vxp=mtr this seller is selling them for $48.00, i'll let them go for $25.00 plus shipping and the fork chrome fork covers WITH LIGHTS THAT WORK, i'll let go for $60.00 plus shipping in case anyone's interested.

stuart.

[roadwanderer2]

well, i have the forks replaced, everything put back together, took it out for a ride today, and lost all the air in my front forks as i was riding down the road. rode the bike home and hooked up my air compressor to put air back into the forks, and when i took the air hose off the air inlet valve, i could hear an air leak from the upper triple trees. i don't know which one is leaking, the left or the right, but i have to figure out which side its leaking from. only 2 things might have happened,i have the forks up too high in the t/t, or i nicked one of the "O" rings in the air separator valve.

im gonna try to loosen up the hex bolts that are on the upper t/t and move the forks down about 1/4" and see if that stops the air leak. if it don't, i'll have to take it all back apart and change the "O" rings. needless to say im not really happy about having to do this over again.

stuart.