1987 aspencade gl1200A shift position sensor Please help I am stuck/

Information and questions on GL1200 Goldwings (1984-1987)
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Posts: 9
Joined: Thu Aug 14, 2014 6:23 am
Location: Bradford, ME
Motorcycle: 1987 Honda Goldwing aspencade 1200

1987 aspencade gl1200A shift position sensor Please help I am stuck/

Post by Gusbike1987 »

:? I have an 87 Aspencade, This bike was given to me. From day 1 the Neutral light never came on and the gear displayed on the dash were jumble, Having a background in electronic, I bought a Clymer Manual and isolated the problem to the sensor. Performed the tests to the top part of the connector and all worked well. I traced the six pin cable and it goes through a grommet on the timing belt cover asked a fellow member where this sensor is and explained about the timing belt cover. I was told that it was mounted to the block or cover. I see the par t35759MG9-771 Can someone please set me straight and give me a little insight on how to locate and change this sensor. My objective is to restore the neutral light and display the gear that I will be driving in. In some exploded views it seems deep in the engine. Thank you

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Motorcycle: 1988 GL1500 I
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Re: 1987 aspencade gl1200A shift position sensor Please help I am stuck/

Post by virgilmobile »

Ill refer you back to Admins post....y WingAdmin » Fri Sep 09, 2016 3:04 pm

It's very similar to the 1100, you can see pictures of it (along with the steps to get to it) on this page, starting at step 73...viewtopic.php?f=11&t=275
See the pictures starting at pg 68...Just like your gonna take the water pump out.
It's not behind the timing belt cover......The next one down.

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Motorcycle: 1987 GL1200I
1993 GL1500SE (gone, but not forgotten)

Re: 1987 aspencade gl1200A shift position sensor Please help I am stuck/

Post by wiretician »

This may be a little late in the response, but here it goes. I had to repair my shift sensor switch recently. First, you must get a front transmission cover gasket and seal kit. Follow manual to remove radiator and front transmission cover. When you get cover off, you will see that two bolts hold it in place. It can be CAREFULLY, disassembled. Emphasis on carefully, the bottom part of the switch is Bakelite, very brittle and doesn't take prying very well. Before you start, take a picture or a dozen, this will help in reassembly. Measure the length of the roll pin sticking out of the shaft, to get it back in the correct spot. You have to remove the roll pin. Now, carefully pry out the dimpled metal around the phenolic disc. Then you will be able to pull the assembly out of the metal shell. Inside you will find a disc with the wires soldered to copper rivets. Went on eBay and located some copper rivets, 1.3mm x 1/2" long shaft x 3.6mm head. They were less than $10 for a 100. Had to use a Dremel tool and bevel the top of the rivet, so the contact would slide on and off easier, and give it a quick polish with the Dremel buffing pad, then a small file to smooth the burr underneath to lay flat. The beveling is some tedious work, so patients. I slung a couple rivets to parts unknown, good thing it was a pack of 100. Soldered in place. Since you said Aspencade, you will have more than three pads (mine is an Interstate, only three wires - Neutral, 4th gear, and 5th gear). From what I read in the manual, the 4th and 5th positions are important as spark advance while at speeds. Repeat for all involved. When done, put disc back in shell, and carefully crimp the shell dimples with needle nose pliers. Re-install the roll pin back to the position it was. To test, clip a jumper wire with alligator clips to the bolt hole and plug the connector together. Turn on your ignition and move the switch by hand watch your indicators for correct lights. Remember that the tab where the longer end of the roll pin points to is the Neutral position. Works fine, install back in transmission cover and follow manual to putting all back together. Just a FYI note, while you have the transmission cover off, inspect the water pump. Found that the impeller moved from side to side (not good), it had a bad bearing, was the perfect time to change it. This is a lot of work and wouldn't want to have to go back in there a second time. Hope that this helped you.
Experience in the Maintenance Field: Nothing is "Foolproof" to the Talented Fool. There are some that would break an anvil with a rubber mallet.

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