Regulator/Rectifier


Information and questions on GL1200 Goldwings (1984-1987)
Post Reply
User avatar
westy57
Posts: 63
Joined: Sat Oct 03, 2015 7:03 pm
Location: florence,al
Motorcycle: 1986 Gl1200 Aspencade SEI
Previous
Yamaha Venture
550 Kawasaki
500 Suzuki 2 cycle
175 Honda
1966 125 Suzuki
Contact:

Regulator/Rectifier

Post by westy57 »



Can someone tell me ASAP if there's a difference in 86 GL1200 SEI vs a Aspencade? Searching for one online 8 wire (2grn* 2 red/wht* 3 yel * 1 blk) plug has been cut off.Need to order one ASAP .$18 ???? vs $256 from local honda shop?



User avatar
wilmo
Posts: 227
Joined: Wed May 02, 2012 10:53 pm
Location: Ogden, Utah
Motorcycle: 2000 Goldwing 1500 SE White
2005 Yamaha Majesty 400

Re: Regulator/Rectifier

Post by wilmo »

Yes. the SEI is a unique model. The stator is different on that one so the regulator/rectifier is also different to accommodate the extra power from the stator. They are not interchangeable.

User avatar
Rednaxs60
Posts: 2352
Joined: Wed Nov 18, 2015 12:44 pm
Location: Victoria, British Columbia, Canada
Motorcycle: 1985 GL1200 LTD
1995 GL1500 SE CDN Edition
2012 Suzuki DL1000 VStrom
2008 GL1800 (sold)
Ontario 1985 GL1200 LTD (sold)

Re: Regulator/Rectifier

Post by Rednaxs60 »

The '86 SEi as well as the '85 LTD have a 500 watt stator versus the 350 watt stator of the carb models. I agree with wilmo that there is probably a difference. If only the plug is missing you can solder the wires to the wires there.

I installed the alt mod and removed the old wiring. I found a few surprises from Honda.

The two green wires are for ground and are joined together once these wires disappear into the wire harness. These can be joined and connected to a ground point.

The two red/white wires do the same once in the wiring harness - two into one. These wires go to the starter solenoid and there is only one red/white wire at the solenoid. Honda also splices the red/white wire into the red wire from the starter solenoid that goes to the ignition switch. This splice is approximately 1/2 way between the regulator/rectifier (RR) and the starter solenoid in the wiring harness. I can only surmise that Honda wanted to have the power from the stator going to the system and would use the battery as a residua power sink. The SEi and LTD require a lot of power because of the fuel injection and computer system(s). I have my bike wired so that the wire from the alternator goes to the starter solenoid and then into the system, no splice with the red wire going to the ignition switch - works well.

The three yellow wires can be connected to the wires out of the stator.

The black wire is a battery sensing wire that provides some regulating of the RR. I would connect it directly to the battery positive to get a better signal to the RR than through the wiring system.

There are a few threads here that have the RR testing that can be done to determine the condition of the RR.

No need to change the RR if only the wiring has been cut.

From the Clymer manual,

To test the voltage regulator/rectifier, disconnect the electrical connector from the harness (A, Figure 8). Make the following measurement using an ohmmeter and referring to Figure 9.

NOTE

The following tests are set up for a positive ground ohmmeter. If a negative ground ohmmeter is used the test results will be the
opposite
1. Connect the negative (-) ohmmeter lead to the green wire and the positive (+) ohmmeter lead to each yellow wire. There should be continuity (low resistance).
2. Reverse the ohmmeter leads and repeat Step 1. This time there should be no continuity (infinite resistance).
3. Connect the positive (+) ohmmeter lead to the red/white wire and the negative (-) ohmmeter lead to each yellow wire. There should be continuity (low resistance).
4. Reverse the ohmmeter leads and repeat Step 3. This time there should be no continuity (infinite resistance).

Voltage Regulator Performance Test

Connect a voltmeter to the battery negative and positive terminals (Figure 3). Leave the battery cables attached.
Start the engine and let it idle; increase engine speed until the voltage going to the battery reaches 14.0-15.0 volts.
At this point, the voltage regulator/rectifier should prevent any further increases in voltage. If this does not happen and voltage increases above specifications, the voltage regulator/rectifier is faulty and must be replaced.

Hope this helps. Cheers
"When you write the story of your life, don't let anyone else hold the pen"

Ernest

User avatar
Rednaxs60
Posts: 2352
Joined: Wed Nov 18, 2015 12:44 pm
Location: Victoria, British Columbia, Canada
Motorcycle: 1985 GL1200 LTD
1995 GL1500 SE CDN Edition
2012 Suzuki DL1000 VStrom
2008 GL1800 (sold)
Ontario 1985 GL1200 LTD (sold)

Re: Regulator/Rectifier

Post by Rednaxs60 »

Apologize for the duplication of information between this and your other thread.

Found an RR on line at http://www.motorcityreman.com/hooe3131vore4.html. $85.00 free shipping over $50.00. P/N 31600-ML8-305. Probably other ones available.

Cheers


"When you write the story of your life, don't let anyone else hold the pen"

Ernest

Post Reply