anyone installed fog lights on their gl1200

[fred1diver]

hey everyone, I'm thinking about adding some fog lights on my wing, I was thinking on the engine guards, what has me puzzled is do I run the negative wire back to the fuse box, or do I just ground it like on a car?
for the positive side, I'll be connecting to the fuse box's spare circuit.
thanks in advance

[oldishwinger]

hey everyone, I'm thinking about adding some fog lights on my wing, I was thinking on the engine guards, what has me puzzled is do I run the negative wire back to the fuse box, or do I just ground it like on a car?
for the positive side, I'll be connecting to the fuse box's spare circuit.
thanks in advance

either ground will work, I have used the ground at the aux screws and currently have running lights grounded to the frame. its generally accepted I think that 35 watt lights either side, is the maximum the system can take without causing a discharge at the battery, and putting the lights through a relay and handlebar switch helps too. good luck

[SilverDave]

I used to have a pair of Walmart 35 watt lights, running thru a relay . But 70 watts was enough to show a serious drop in the viktmeter , so I only turned them on after 15 minutes of running down the road.

I just replaced them about 2 months with some BRIGHT 10 watt LED's What a difference ! The stator / battery does not even know they are there .
Both the old and new lights are 2 inch round lights :

http://g03.s.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1.1sGHFXX ... h-Spot.png

They are fastened to an l shaped bracket , which is fastened to the "lowers" plastic holder screw right in front the shark gills . One of the 4 tiny black panels there also has a hole (for the horn sound , I think ) so the wiring can go in thru the hole .
With an 1/8 inch metal bracket , the screw for the lowers can hold the bracket and the lowers firmly

I wanted them higher than on the crash bar. I also wanted them pointing downward slightly , to really light up the road .

Two points on my personal learning curve :
A) Every once in a while , the lowers have to come off
( Like to balance the carbs ) so .... these wires need high quality shielded bullet connectors so they can be undone .

B) I chose LED's . and they are polarity dependant , so the bullet connectors are labeled red and black , and the male-female parts are reversed , so its impossible to plug them in backwards .

They suit me perfectly .

SilverDave

[oldishwinger]

I used to have a pair of Walmart 35 watt lights, running thru a relay . But 70 watts was enough to show a serious drop in the viktmeter , so I only turned them on after 15 minutes of running down the road.

I just replaced them about 2 months with some BRIGHT 10 watt LED's What a difference ! The stator / battery does not even know they are there .
Both the old and new lights are 2 inch round lights :

http://g03.s.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1.1sGHFXX ... h-Spot.png

They are fastened to an l shaped bracket , which is fastened to the "lowers" plastic holder screw right in front the shark gills . One of the 4 tiny black panels there also has a hole (for the horn sound , I think ) so the wiring can go in thru the hole .
With an 1/8 inch metal bracket , the screw for the lowers can hold the bracket and the lowers firmly

I wanted them higher than on the crash bar. I also wanted them pointing downward slightly , to really light up the road .

Two points on my personal learning curve :
A) Every once in a while , the lowers have to come off
( Like to balance the carbs ) so .... these wires need high quality shielded bullet connectors so they can be undone .

B) I chose LED's . and they are polarity dependant , so the bullet connectors are labeled red and black , and the male-female parts are reversed , so its impossible to plug them in backwards .

They suit me perfectly .

SilverDave

nice one silverdave yeh I too would go to leds in a heart beat, but unfortunately, cant stop them from interfering with the radio. its seems to be some do and some dont I'm glad you dont have the issue. my situation with interference has improved with the installing of a conversion kit, but still not enough to go to leds, but its most certainly the way to go if you can.

[geraldm]

I couldnt agree more . when I bought my 86 gl it had if you can believe it 2 - 100 watt spots mounted on the crash bar , they were bright , but would kill the battery in 50 miles . only used them a couple times , then realized from different posts what my problem was . took them off . bought 2 18 watt spots for the crash bar and another 90 watt led spot , flood combo mounted just under the headlight , , even with the 90 + the two 18 watters there is never any problems with the battery or starting . they do such a good job you will actually see things out in the fields you really dont want to see, I always use the 2 18 watt lights for running lights and only run the big 90 when there is no cars coming at night , or when I feel maybe someone didnt see me on a pull off or side road I flip it on just for a bit , i feel thats fair game .. On a side note , most of the led light that will do the job are considered off road lights so use the big bright one sparingly because they are blinding to oncoming traffic but for sure make a night ride much more enjoyable , most guys dont like to run at night , myself on the other hand love to ride at night . JMO Have a good one . Gerald .

[gervais]

I used to have a pair of Walmart 35 watt lights, running thru a relay . But 70 watts was enough to show a serious drop in the viktmeter , so I only turned them on after 15 minutes of running down the road.

I just replaced them about 2 months with some BRIGHT 10 watt LED's What a difference ! The stator / battery does not even know they are there .
Both the old and new lights are 2 inch round lights :

http://g03.s.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1.1sGHFXX ... h-Spot.png

They are fastened to an l shaped bracket , which is fastened to the "lowers" plastic holder screw right in front the shark gills . One of the 4 tiny black panels there also has a hole (for the horn sound , I think ) so the wiring can go in thru the hole .
With an 1/8 inch metal bracket , the screw for the lowers can hold the bracket and the lowers firmly

I wanted them higher than on the crash bar. I also wanted them pointing downward slightly , to really light up the road .

Two points on my personal learning curve :
A) Every once in a while , the lowers have to come off
( Like to balance the carbs ) so .... these wires need high quality shielded bullet connectors so they can be undone .

B) I chose LED's . and they are polarity dependant , so the bullet connectors are labeled red and black , and the male-female parts are reversed , so its impossible to plug them in backwards .

They suit me perfectly .

SilverDave

nice one silverdave yeh I too would go to leds in a heart beat, but unfortunately, cant stop them from interfering with the radio. its seems to be some do and some dont I'm glad you dont have the issue. my situation with interference has improved with the installing of a conversion kit, but still not enough to go to leds, but its most certainly the way to go if you can.

hi,do you have any friends that is an hamradio operator? if so ask him aboput "ferrite" .these ferrite are used too filter interference from AC line.you have these interference because your radio is catching the AC coming out of the alternator of the bike.these ferrite are common in radio installation on police cars for example.
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/5X-3-5mm-Noise- ... SwMtxXvFz-

good luck
gervais
ve2ckn

[gervais]

I used to have a pair of Walmart 35 watt lights, running thru a relay . But 70 watts was enough to show a serious drop in the viktmeter , so I only turned them on after 15 minutes of running down the road.

I just replaced them about 2 months with some BRIGHT 10 watt LED's What a difference ! The stator / battery does not even know they are there .
Both the old and new lights are 2 inch round lights :

http://g03.s.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1.1sGHFXX ... h-Spot.png

They are fastened to an l shaped bracket , which is fastened to the "lowers" plastic holder screw right in front the shark gills . One of the 4 tiny black panels there also has a hole (for the horn sound , I think ) so the wiring can go in thru the hole .
With an 1/8 inch metal bracket , the screw for the lowers can hold the bracket and the lowers firmly

I wanted them higher than on the crash bar. I also wanted them pointing downward slightly , to really light up the road .

Two points on my personal learning curve :
A) Every once in a while , the lowers have to come off
( Like to balance the carbs ) so .... these wires need high quality shielded bullet connectors so they can be undone .

B) I chose LED's . and they are polarity dependant , so the bullet connectors are labeled red and black , and the male-female parts are reversed , so its impossible to plug them in backwards .

They suit me perfectly .

SilverDave

nice one silverdave yeh I too would go to leds in a heart beat, but unfortunately, cant stop them from interfering with the radio. its seems to be some do and some dont I'm glad you dont have the issue. my situation with interference has improved with the installing of a conversion kit, but still not enough to go to leds, but its most certainly the way to go if you can.

hi
where did you baught thse little LED lights?
i have 2 square 50 watts on my GW that i will dismantle.
thanks for the tipps
gervais