GL1200 dies suddenly

[dthorntonministries]

I have a 1985 GL1200a with 20,000 actual miles on it. I've been all around with it but, suddenly, a few days ago I was riding around town and it died like the kill switch had been bumped. I coasted into a parking lot and walked home. (clear across town, in Fairfield, TX, only takes about 15 minutes) About an hour later I went by with some tools, to see if I could determine what happened. It started up like nothing had happened. I made a short trip to another store and when I cranked it up and pulled out onto the highway, again, it died cold. After hauling it home on a trailer (do you know how embarrassing that is). Once again, after sitting for a while it started right up, like nothing had happened.

Anyone ever have this happen? It has to be something common to all cylinders. It seems to be after it heats up. Then, after cooling down it's ok until it heats up again. Any ideas out there?

My Clymer's manual doesn't tell me how to test for this. Help!!
Be blessed, Don

[Aussie81Interstate]

I would probably check your main fuse and replace it if it is the old dog bone style, and then check all your battery connections for being clean and the earth connection.

[dthorntonministries]

Thank you. I had already replaced the dogbone with a plug-in fuse. The battery is new and connections all tight. The only other things that I can think of that are common to the entire firing circuit are the ignition switch, the igniter, down in the timing belt area, and the kill switch. I understand the ignition switch was a known problem and may have a recall on it. Does anyone know how to check the ignition switch.

i m aware that the "It only happens after it gets up to temperature...." syndrome, is a problem of its own. When it is cool, everything is going to look normal. The trick is to catch it right after the event and see what shows an open circuit, that should show closed.

I'd appreciate any suggestions how to check these parts out.

Since this happened to me twice, I'm so "snake bit" now, I hesitate to ride the thing anywhere until I find the culprit.
Thanks again for the suggestions.
Be blessed, DT

[Krazywolf8169]

I had nearly same thing yesterday and today yesterday was going down the road and it quit a few minutes later it fired up drove it home was running fine. This morning it would crank but not fire. What it was it was a bad connection on the 4 pin plug that resides next to the stator wire plug just left of the battery. Cleaned the connection dielectric grease and been good since.

[jimmyschow]

The one thing that got my attention was the new battery. I have seen new batteries that have been charged to heavy when they are new and develop a running open. meaning once the plates start to get warm and expand they open up. Proper charge on a new battery is 1/10th the amp/hour rating for 24 hours. if you are leaning towards the ignition switch, i would spray the inside with WD40, work the switch then let it sit over night and blow it out.

[dthorntonministries]

Krazywolf8169, thanks for that suggestion. I don't have a 4 pin plug next to the battery. I did have a plug that held the stator wires, but I soldered those together. While I was checking the charging system I felt the wires and they were hot. When I pulled them out where I could see them, the plug had been replaced with bullet connectors. I removed them and soldered the wires together. I haven't ridden it since then. The other plug, next to the stator wires does not exist on my scooter. Is yours fuel injected? There is a place there for two plugs. One is the stator wires, but I don't know what the other plug is for (if it were there).

Thanks for the reply. I'll look in my Clymer's manual to see if it can tell me anything about the mysterious plug.
Be blessed, DT

[dthorntonministries]

Jimmyschow, thanks for your reply.
The only time this battery was on a full-charger was when it was purchased. Since then, it has been on a battery-tender. It doesn't get ridden enough to keep the battery up, so I keep it on a battery-tender. I'll ride it next week and see if it still dies. I did solder the wires on the stator together, eliminating the plug, hoping that might fix it, but I really doubt that was the problem. Still haven't ridden it since then. We'll see.
Be blessed, DT

[Ohara]

It sounds like your pulse generators are staying open once they reach a certain temperature. On your 85 they plug into a 4 pin plug next to the rectifier plug. You can test them for resistance when cold. (Should be about 230 I think) If they are good cold, run the bike until it dies and check them again, you will probably find they have no resistance. If this is the case you will have to replace them. EBay or Partzilla has them. Good luck.

[Krazywolf8169]

Well its possible they are the wires that go to the pulse generators i have an 84 which they were still on the rear of the engine. 85 i believe they were moved to the front so maybe trace the wires back from your pulse generators back to the plug.

[Krazywolf8169]

The other fella mentioned where your four pin plug for the pulse generators is located he said it is by the rectifier

[Ohara]

Yes the 84 pulse generators plug into the 4 pin plug by the battery. In 85 the pulse generators where moved to the front of the motor, under the timing belt covers and the 4 pin plug,was moved up to beside the regulator 8 pin plug.

[Krazywolf8169]

Thanks for verification as to the plug i was referring to as i said i cleaned contacts applied dielectric grease and solved my issue

[julimike54]

When it dies.......
Do you loose any other electrical function, or is everything working?
Do you intermittently use the 'kill' switch?
If it it related to the pulse generators, it typically is a heat related failure.

[v_rider]

I hope "dthorntonministries" has had good luck fixing his issue.

I have a 85 GL1200I I purchased several years ago because owner had the same issue with bike stalling after warming up and starting again only after cool down. At that time I tried the CDI, plugs, and coils as well as checking grounds, ignition switch, kill switch, and most other connections with no change.
I am finally getting around to working on it again due to the many other projects I have. After flushing tank, cleaning carbs, and new battery I have it running well enough to start looking for the problem again.
Thanks for the suggestions. I will check the connections at the 4 wire plugin and test the pulse generators and let you know the results.

Dave