Seized Swingarm Nut on Driveshaft side

[85AspencadeLTD]

Had my '85LTD for about 2 months and been trying to loosen the swingarm nut to check/change the universal joint, with no success. It must be rusted. Even bought a 1/2" prybar and used a 4' piece of pipe as an extension - didn't budge. The "nut" has been soaking in WD40 for about a month and recently tried an impact driver, again no success. Anyone have any suggestions?

[CrystalPistol]

Have you tried taking it out through the driveshaft tube?

I've had the front U-joint out of my '85 GL1200 Aspencade a few times .... and I have never removed the swing arm or messed with the swing arm adjustment, I just check it for any perceptible play, never found any yet. Once the final drive was out, always used driveshaft to work the U-joint out to check.

[Rednaxs60]

Unfortunately the u-joint will not come out through the swingarm on the '85 LTD - tried it, does not work.

The impact driver should loosen the swing arm nut. Keep at it with the impact driver, it will loosen. Otherwise, heat will be your only other option.

As an aside, congrats on the '85 LTD. Great bike on the road. Do you have the 3 manuals. If not, PM me with your email address. These are large files and I use wetransfer to send large files.

Good luck. Cheers

[85AspencadeLTD]

Thanks Rednaxs60, I heard that the U-joint would not come out with the drive shaft, and could see that when I replaced the final drive (original pooched). I have it back together, but there is still a "shuddering" at low revs (<2400) which disappears if I apply more throttle; fine at high speed, so I suspected the U-joint. I'm hesitant to heat the "nut" until I have no other options in case I damage the seal or bearing behind it. I will try the impact driver again.

I love this bike! Great fun to ride, and so comfortable. Bit of an adjustment, as my previous bikes were XL350 ('85) and XL500 ('82). I retired recently, and bought the LTD the next day, knowing I would have the time to work on it.
Up here near Toronto, we have had great biking weather recently, so I have been enjoying the longer riding season.

Thanks for your prompt replies! Yes I have the three manuals - thanks for the offer to send them.
Safe biking>>
Paul

[Rednaxs60]

Paul - no worries on the manuals. Do you have the Clymer manual. I find it is a good go to one, has colour wire diagrams. Have in PDF as well.

Wouldn't worry about damaging the swing arm bearings. I am a believer that after some 33 years, all the bearings should be replaced. Did the steering stem bearings on mine. Felt good, but when I took the bearings out to replace, the bottom bearing came apart before I could get it off the stem. Costs for the swing arm is about $100.00 for parts (had a look at what I spent). You can go to any local auto parts store for the bearings. They are SKF BR30203. The other parts I'd go to Honda for.

To take off the left swing arm pivot bolt, I used a "Park Tool FR-6" used on a bicycle drive spindle - fits and works perfectly - about $20.00 at your local bicycle shop.

As for the shuddering at low RPM, what gear are you in? The power band starts at approximately 2500 RPM so try to keep the bike above this. I have an 1800 as well and you can ride around town all day in 4th and not worry about it; however, this is not true of the 1200. It is a higher revving engine and does not have the same torque as the 1800 at lower RPM, and does not like to be "lugged". The bike may seem to be revving high but this has been something I've had to get used to.

Another issue that will make a difference is to balance the cylinder banks. If these are not extremely close, you may see a decrease in fuel economy, the engine will operate hotter than necessary, and you might have "shuddering" issues because one side is working harder than the other. Gauges or a manometer is good. Before you do this, give the throttle plates a clean with carb cleaner. Similar to fogging a snowmobile engine. Strip the bike down to where the air filter is out, jack up the idle, and spray into the cylinder intakes. Then do the balancing of the cylinder banks. May make a difference.

These engines are hard mounted and this can also be what you are feeling at the low RPMs in a less than optimal gear.

Grew up in Barrie, family is in Larder Lake, up Timmin's way. Daughter and son-in-law are in Toronto for the next 9 months and I will be visiting after new year just in time for the Toronto bike show. Heading to Larder for Xmas and not looking forward to the cold.

Good luck. Cheers

[WingAdmin]

You're not the first. It's a fairly common problem: viewtopic.php?t=37106

An impact wrench will break it free.

[CrystalPistol]

Unfortunately the u-joint will not come out through the swingarm on the '85 LTD - tried it, does not work.

I know that's the case with 1500s but for that to be so on a 85 LTd... means that they used a different U-joint or swingarm than the other 1200s that year .... I wonder why they did so?
Under 2400 in 4th or 5th with throttle applied, mine will shudder some too until rpms get up near/ over 3,000, a downshift will do it. 1200 has 4 cylinders tuned for higher rpm running, 1500 / 1800s are 6 cylinder motors deviding power up into more pulses per turn of the drive shaft.

2400 is ok for light throttle almost coasting, but one should get the rpms up higher for pulling.

[85AspencadeLTD]

Yes, Rednaxs60 I do have the Clymer manual; needed it for the CFI, as the Haynes one I have only covered carbs.

I'm sure you're right about the swing arm bearings needing replaced after 32 years; makes sense when you put it like that, and it has done 130,000 Kms after all!

It shudders in any gear; I usually pull the clutch in and rev higher and it solves the problem, but I had the impression something was loose or worn. However, I think you may be right about needing to balance the cylinders. It also kind of "rattles" on the overrun or feathering throttle, and also to a small extent while idling in neutral. Fuel consumption is also a bit high. PO set the idle to about 1600-1800 rpm, so maybe its just unbalanced. (I've only had to deal with 1 cylinder for the last 36 years; perhaps I also need adjustment!!) Balancing the cylinders was next on my list, after checking compression values.

Great advice everyone, thanks from a newbie!

[Rednaxs60]

Mentioning that the PO adjusted the idle high makes me wonder if he did it with the idle adjustment screw and not the cylinder bank adjusting screw, easy to make this mistake. The idle will change using the cylinder bank adjusting screw, but is the wrong way to it.

The bank adjustment screw is on the linkage at the right throttle body. The idle adjusting screw is in between the cylinder banks about half way in from the right side.

Good luck. Cheers

[85AspencadeLTD]

Mentioning that the PO adjusted the idle high makes me wonder if he did it with the idle adjustment screw and not the cylinder bank adjusting screw, easy to make this mistake. The idle will change using the cylinder bank adjusting screw, but is the wrong way to it.

The bank adjustment screw is on the linkage at the right throttle body. The idle adjusting screw is in between the cylinder banks about half way in from the right side.

Thanks for the advice!

[Rednaxs60]

Good looking avatar!

[oldwing73]

1600 idle? shoot mines happy at 800rpm