Click from the rear


Information and questions on GL1200 Goldwings (1984-1987)
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Mountain rider
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Joined: Sun May 14, 2017 9:03 pm
Location: Rigby, Idaho
Motorcycle: 2003 Goldwing 1800

Click from the rear

Post by Mountain rider »



Well, since it decided to snow here this morning, I've started assembling parts for the Winter maintenance fest. I've got a click developing in the rear when I shift. It's almost like the U-joint has some play and when I release the clutch a little to fast it's clicks, taking up the slack. On the other hand, I'm not feeling any vibration as if the U-joint or drive shaft was flopping around in there. I have a spare coming, but could there be anything else in the drive that may cause this? I know there is the spline that mates with the final drive, and I've seen something about some buffer bushings on the rear hub. I should note, this isn't a full time noise, only when I shift or when taking off. If something needs attention in there, I'd just as soon take care of it while I'm in there. Any ideas?


SFC, U.S. Army Artillery, Retired
Now, fully retired

froche
Posts: 282
Joined: Wed Mar 12, 2014 1:56 pm
Location: Vista, ca
Motorcycle: 1985 Goldwing Aspencade (GL1200A)
2002 GL1800

Former bikes;
2000 R1100RT
2005 Suzuki Bandit
1979 Yamaha XS1100
1978 Yamaha XS1100 Special
1990 Yamaha XV250
1980 Yamaha XV750
1979 Honda CB750
1968 Triumph Bonneville T120
1973 Honda CB450
1968 Harley Davidson Sportster
1974 Honda CB750
1968 Honda CL72

Re: Click from the rear

Post by froche »

I have that too though its more something I feel and think I hear.
I think everything is tight..I thought maybe its the rubber dampeners starting to show their age, but I am loath to take off a recently mounted wheel (following a tire change).
Any other ideas?

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boonny
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Joined: Fri Nov 12, 2010 12:14 am
Location: Canada
Motorcycle: 1984 Aspencade

Re: Click from the rear

Post by boonny »

Check the rear wheel bearing on the drive side. It's a common problem.

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Rednaxs60
Posts: 2353
Joined: Wed Nov 18, 2015 12:44 pm
Location: Victoria, British Columbia, Canada
Motorcycle: 1985 GL1200 LTD
1995 GL1500 SE CDN Edition
2012 Suzuki DL1000 VStrom
2008 GL1800 (sold)
Ontario 1985 GL1200 LTD (sold)

Re: Click from the rear

Post by Rednaxs60 »

Check the rear wheel bearing as boonny mentions. I have perused the forums and net and have found a lot of info regarding this and the various recommendations to fix an issue with the rear wheel. The SE-i is not as prone to the rear wheel bearing issue as the '85 LTD. This was realized by Honda and a fix for it was implemented in the '86-'87 1200s.

Here is some lite reading for you, and you have probably read some of it already.

viewtopic.php?t=25817
http://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/v ... el#p144755
https://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=22401
https://ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php ... 27#p296127
https://ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php ... 05#p385005
https://ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php ... ue#p290377
https://www.tapatalk.com/topic/22613-cl ... ub-failure

Here is the article on 1200 rear hub failure:




I have considered the 1500 rear replacement option, but these rears are not that plentiful where I live. I like the dual bearing mod where you machine the rear rim and install two bearings, similar to the 1500.

Lots of options.

Good luck! Cheers
"When you write the story of your life, don't let anyone else hold the pen"

Ernest

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Mountain rider
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Joined: Sun May 14, 2017 9:03 pm
Location: Rigby, Idaho
Motorcycle: 2003 Goldwing 1800

Re: Click from the rear

Post by Mountain rider »

Thanks guys, much appreciated. I plan on doing the rear brakes here soon, so while I've got stuff torn apart, maybe I'll get in there and do the bearing as well. One less thing to worry about. That will give me a chance to inspect the splines on the drive as well as the rubber bushings on the wheel. Might even be a good time to do the swing arm bearings.
SFC, U.S. Army Artillery, Retired
Now, fully retired

froche
Posts: 282
Joined: Wed Mar 12, 2014 1:56 pm
Location: Vista, ca
Motorcycle: 1985 Goldwing Aspencade (GL1200A)
2002 GL1800

Former bikes;
2000 R1100RT
2005 Suzuki Bandit
1979 Yamaha XS1100
1978 Yamaha XS1100 Special
1990 Yamaha XV250
1980 Yamaha XV750
1979 Honda CB750
1968 Triumph Bonneville T120
1973 Honda CB450
1968 Harley Davidson Sportster
1974 Honda CB750
1968 Honda CL72

Re: Click from the rear

Post by froche »

I have a 1500 rear drive, caliper, wheel, tire, axle , spacers and brake stay waiting just in case!

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Rednaxs60
Posts: 2353
Joined: Wed Nov 18, 2015 12:44 pm
Location: Victoria, British Columbia, Canada
Motorcycle: 1985 GL1200 LTD
1995 GL1500 SE CDN Edition
2012 Suzuki DL1000 VStrom
2008 GL1800 (sold)
Ontario 1985 GL1200 LTD (sold)

Re: Click from the rear

Post by Rednaxs60 »

Mountain rider wrote:
Wed Oct 04, 2017 3:02 pm
Thanks guys, much appreciated. I plan on doing the rear brakes here soon, so while I've got stuff torn apart, maybe I'll get in there and do the bearing as well. One less thing to worry about. That will give me a chance to inspect the splines on the drive as well as the rubber bushings on the wheel. Might even be a good time to do the swing arm bearings.
Swing arm bearings are a good small project to do. If you don't have one already, go to your local bicycle shop and see if they have a "Park Tool FR-6" castle nut remover. Fits the left side swing arm nut perfectly.

If the rubber bushings are gone you will notice the holes in the cush damper bushings elongating. I have a bit but I had to use a magnifying glass to inspect and see the slight indent in the sleeve of the bushing.

For the splines use Loctite LB 8012 that has a moly content in excess of 60% - works well.

Good luck.

Cheers
"When you write the story of your life, don't let anyone else hold the pen"

Ernest

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boonny
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Joined: Fri Nov 12, 2010 12:14 am
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Motorcycle: 1984 Aspencade

Re: Click from the rear

Post by boonny »

Mountain rider wrote:
Wed Oct 04, 2017 3:02 pm
Thanks guys, much appreciated. I plan on doing the rear brakes here soon, so while I've got stuff torn apart, maybe I'll get in there and do the bearing as well.
When you say "maybe I'll get in there" this has me worried. A word of advice, if I may. Before doing any work on the back wheel I would remove the back wheel, remove the spider, stick my finger in the bearing center hole and see if I can move the bearing. If the bearing moves (rattles in the hub) you will need to either take the wheel to a machine shop and have the hub bored out and have steel sleeve pressed in or use a sleeve retainer like loctite 620. "Maybe getting to the bearing" can result in destroying the hub no fun going 60+mph two up. Mine went last year, I had it bored and a steel sleeve pressed in, I was thinking about the sleeve retainer(cheaper) but thought the sleeve would be the best option.

User avatar
Rednaxs60
Posts: 2353
Joined: Wed Nov 18, 2015 12:44 pm
Location: Victoria, British Columbia, Canada
Motorcycle: 1985 GL1200 LTD
1995 GL1500 SE CDN Edition
2012 Suzuki DL1000 VStrom
2008 GL1800 (sold)
Ontario 1985 GL1200 LTD (sold)

Re: Click from the rear

Post by Rednaxs60 »

boonny wrote:
Wed Oct 04, 2017 11:43 pm
Mountain rider wrote:
Wed Oct 04, 2017 3:02 pm
Thanks guys, much appreciated. I plan on doing the rear brakes here soon, so while I've got stuff torn apart, maybe I'll get in there and do the bearing as well.
When you say "maybe I'll get in there" this has me worried. A word of advice, if I may. Before doing any work on the back wheel I would remove the back wheel, remove the spider, stick my finger in the bearing center hole and see if I can move the bearing. If the bearing moves (rattles in the hub) you will need to either take the wheel to a machine shop and have the hub bored out and have steel sleeve pressed in or use a sleeve retainer like loctite 620. "Maybe getting to the bearing" can result in destroying the hub no fun going 60+mph two up. Mine went last year, I had it bored and a steel sleeve pressed in, I was thinking about the sleeve retainer(cheaper) but thought the sleeve would be the best option.
Since I bought my 1200 two years ago and in searching the forums, the rear wheel bearing issue has been in the back of my mind. The SE-i should have had the Honda "fix" that consisted of a steel collar with bearing pressed in. This was also a retrofit for the '84-'85 years as well. Your '86 SE-i should already have the steel collar installed. If there is movement between the metal sleeve and the hub, there may not be enough of the hub left to machine for a new steel collar. Additional thoughts are that if you were to remove the steel collar and machine for new, the amount of hub remaining may not be sufficient - just thinking out loud.

Here is a picture of a 1200 hub machined with a steel collar inserted. Since the steel is harder than the aluminum hub, the hub now has less "meat" to absorb the same forces that are exerted when riding.


The '86 SE-i should look similar. Honda recognized the issue and put in dual bearings in the 1500 to support the weight and absorb the forces being exerted on the rear hub. You will also notice some red fluid around the cush damper bushings in the picture. This hub has had new bushings installed.

With this in mind, if you have a rim that can be machined so that two bearings can be pressed in, this would be the route, in my opinion, to go if machining is an option. I will be looking into the machining aspect for two bearings this winter. 1500 rear ends are not that plentiful here on Vancouver Island.

When you do the rear brake, take the back end off, lube the u-joint and prop shaft splines, check the FD pinion bearing for wear - had to replace mine, lots of radial load imparted on this bearing. Good time to change the FD oil as well. You will know if the prop shaft has been out of the bike because there is a clip installed on the prop shaft from the factory. This clip is discarded afterwards when the first maintenance of the rear is done. This is detailed in the OEM and other service manuals.

Lots to consider.

Good luck. Cheers


"When you write the story of your life, don't let anyone else hold the pen"

Ernest

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