GL1200 oil and stator ... When to change.

[SilverDave]

For at least 15 years, I have kept my 1200 stator running well ( It probably was a PO replacement )

My research way back then was that GL1200 stator failure was ( Likely ) caused by :

a) Bad yellow wire plug ( which I cut out and soldered ).
b) Poor battery and rect/reg struggling to keep up ( checked twice a season , replaced battery every 4 years ).
c) Old acidic oil, eating the stator winding insulation.

( I change the oil religiously at 3000 to 4000 km and put it away for winter only after an oil change )
( Oil is cheaper than to re and re the stator )

There may be other causes of stator failure,
( angering the stator gods ?? I gotta get me one of those little road gremlin bells !!)
but those seemed to be the main three causes .

In any case, its the same stator/reg/rect for a long time , and a lotta miles.
So that plan seems to be working !

===========================

Last spring a motorcycle friend convinced me that Lordco Lucas semi synthetic motorcycle oil was less than a $1.00 more than regular Canadian tire motorcycle oil..
So I tried it . First gear clunked less, but otherwise I noticed nothing different .
( the promised one hp increase was not obvious to me ... LOL LOL)

Just getting ready to put bike away for winter ...

BUT ... before I change it ....
the semi synthetic oil seems as clear as it was 6 months ago , with no sign of black or burning , and its at about 3500 km ....
=========================


So ... Change it or Leave it ??

My main goal is to be kind to my stator . I don't care about the oil cost ..

Any easy way to decide how acidic old oil actually is ?


SilverDave

[twocams]

I would change it now, the carbon and acids are there within a few hundred miles. The only real way is to send a oil sample out to a lab that does oil analysis. They can tell you every thing in your oil. I here Its not real expensive. They may even have one of those "kits" on the market that dip a little plastic strip in the oil. Then the bottle with colors on label outside to give some indication of oil acids etc? i know they do for engine coolants.

twocams

[SilverDave]

So even if it is Semi-syn and it " Looks good " you think its probably "acidic " by now ?

Ok

SilverDave

[Rednaxs60]

Acids, particles and such are in the oil no matter how it looks. Did the oil analysis thing for 20 years in the Navy and unless you do it from new, or a complete rebuild, the results can not be quantified as to what to do. Can't hurt if you are into that, but for the bike would be overkill.

Time is also a factor when considering type of oil. If the oil change frequency would be say every two to three months because of use, a good mineral may be the way to go. If you change your oil less frequently, semi-synthetic, or full synthetic may be the way to go. I also like to compare prices. If synthetic is close or the same price as mineral, go synthetic. Also a personal choice.

Fresh oil before layup should always be the consideration. Do just before you put the bike away, morning of or day before. Don't be changing the oil then riding for a few weeks, IMO defeats the purpose. After the oil change, let the engine warm up to operating temp then shut down and put away - circulates the new oil cleaning so to speak. Doing the oil change now lets you start the bike and ride when you put it back on the road.

Just my thoughts.

Cheers

[WingAdmin]

Just getting ready to put bike away for winter ...

BUT ... before I change it ....
the semi synthetic oil seems as clear as it was 6 months ago , with no sign of black or burning , and its at about 3500 km ....
=========================

My concern would be as to WHY the oil is clear.

The purpose of oil is more than just lubrication. Piston rings are not perfectly sealed, there is always blow-by into the crankcase, particularly at heavy acceleration. The oil traps the contaminants from this blow-by. One of those contaminants is carbon, which is black - and that's why used oil is black. It's not burned, it's just holding lots of carbon.

So...you've been riding your bike, it is producing carbon, and blowing it in to the crankcase, but it's not in the oil. So...where is it?

[twocams]

The oil can look cleaner/clearer on the dip stick. As apposed to the oil being drained into a pan and looking at it there.

twocams

[SilverDave]

Lordo gave me a good price on the Lucas semi synthetic... so I will be changing it just before I put it to bed

SilverDave

[julimike54]

Good choice. Let us know if the drained oil is darker than stick oil. I've noticed mine looks "clean" when draining b4 but I drain into a black tub, so difficult to tell how 'black' the oil is and usually doesn't matter to me. Now I'm curious

As an aside, the stator in mine was changed under warranty and other than the sense wire and the three yellow wire connector, I've had no issues. I also change my oil every 3000 miles or at least once a year (which ever happens, not always 2 times a year).