What is a Stator?

[RuDogGL]

what is a stator on 1982 Goldwing GL100 and can it cause knocking in the motor?

[twocams]

Stator is that thing that is part of the charging system. Helps keep your battery charged. Could help to make noise but dout it would be charging.

twocams

[RuDogGL]

Twocams, thanks for the reply. The bike battery seems to be charging okay, I just put a new Battery and changed out the positive Cable that had a lot of corrosion. All is great now.

[SilverDave]

A stator is an older form of alternator charging device that has no parts to wear .. no brushes . Its simply a magnet , spinning inside a coil . It can produce up to 70 VAC , so needs a rectifier ( into DC ) and a regulator ( Bring it down to about 13 volts .) It has been used in outboards, plane engines, motorcycles for most of last century . The major disadvantage is that at low RPM it does not produce enough voltage ... but it has no parts to wear out . Most motorcycles up to 1989 used stators.

An alternator is a more modern approach , used today in most cars . Much better design: It has brushes, so is not a forever thing.... but it will charge your battery at low RPM . Sadly , they cannot handle an almost dead battery . Modern bikes mostly use alternators ..

SilverDave

[RuDogGL]

Thanks SilverDave for all of that great information, I will test my today when I got home for the correct voltage, which I was told should be 4 - 5 volts.

[twocams]

4-5 volts who told you that rubbish? At the Battery with bike running 2000+ RPM you should read 13-14 volts on a good xternal meter. If not, you may have troubles.

twocams

[DenverWinger]

I can clarify a little - The stator is the part of an alternator that does not move - Stationary, thus stator. In the older wings the rotor is a bunch of permanent magnets spinning around the outside of the stator, and since it is permanent magnets the alternator will always output full power (# of amps determined by engine revs). The older wings use a shunt-type regulator which grounds out one of the stator output legs by varying degrees, this throws the stator "Y" configuration out of balance with respect to battery/chassis ground, reducing the voltage (and thus the amperage) down to what is needed.

In a conventional alternator, the rotor is an electro-magnet assembly spinning around inside the stator. The regulator works by applying voltage to the electro-magnet rotor, more voltage = stronger magnet, and more output. It regulates the strength of the magnetic charge in the rotor so that the output of the stator is just exactly what is needed by the electrical system.

[twocams]

Winger, now how are we going to remember all of this?

[RuDogGL]

TowCams, the 4 - 5 Volts is on the Stator Yellow Cables and not the Battery.

Winger, thanks for you input also and that help me to get even a better understanding of what a Stator is and what it should do.

[DenverWinger]

Actually, the output of the stator (either permanent magnet or conventional type) is three-phase AC, on the older wings with engine running you'll measure around 30-50 volts AC between any two of the stator wires if it is disconnected from the rest of the system.

[WingAdmin]

Actually, the output of the stator (either permanent magnet or conventional type) is three-phase AC, on the older wings with engine running you'll measure around 30-50 volts AC between any two of the stator wires if it is disconnected from the rest of the system.

...and it's more than enough to kill you should you take the current across the chest (i.e. in one hand and out the other), so be careful when measuring! Treat it like you would the wires connecting an electrical socket in your house.

[wiretician]

A small recap, the stator is a stationary coil with a series of magnets mounted to a flywheel rotating around the outside of the stator. I got curious to how the GL1100 flywheel was designed. Looked up on eBay. I see one has magnets encased, which is no problem. The other that was said to be for your model, has exposed magnets. Why do I bring this up? Well, I do welder and generator repair on the side for a weld supply company. I've seen many engine drive welders come in with the stator damaged. Usually one of the magnets come loose and damaged (destroyed) the stator. Haven't seen this on a motorcycle, yet. But, with the close tolerance of the magnets to the coil, it doesn't take much to eat itself. However, you said that you were charging, which means that your stator isn't making that knocking sound. I have seen the damage lock the engine up to where the starter wouldn't even turn over. Just a quick check, put a meter on the battery, read dc volts (hopefully you see 12 - 12.5vdc). Start engine, observe meter, if it goes down - you have a problem, not necessarily stator. If it goes up (as it should), 13 - 14vdc, then stator is putting out and everything behind it is good. Remember, a good meter, wiring diagram, and a test light along with patients and time you can find any problem. Only other thing is K.I.S.S. (Keep It Simple Stupid), start simple and move to the more expensive. Troubleshooting is just the process of elimination, start small and work to complex.
Hopefully somewhere in my rambling is something to help you.

[RuDogGL]

Thanks Wiretician for the wisdom of information(rambling, K.I.S.S.A.T.R=Keeping It Simple Still Able To Ride) I do have the tools you listed below, thanks.

I started Syncing the Carburetor's again yesterday, and have not completed that task yet, which I will do today after work. Than move onto the Stator testing process, will update this Forum, when done.

[DenverWinger]

A little more info on testing a stator: If it does not appear the battery is charging with engine running (should see 13-14 volts at the battery, may need to rev the engine a little) disconnect the stator from electrical system, test AC volts on stator with engine running between any two of the stator wires, should see 30-50 volts AC (careful not to get shocked), test all three stator wire combos, should be roughly the same reading each combo.

Last test with motor off, Measure ohms between a stator wire and engine block, should be NO reading (open circuit). If you get a reading on this test there's a short between a stator winding and the Iron core and the stator is bad, even if the voltage readings are good....

[Rednaxs60]

Here are some pictures from my 1200:

[RuDogGL]

Well my stator is okay I was able to sync the carbs after doing the valve adjustments Everything Is Right on Mark all the cars are all still together but I still have a knocking noise so I'm just going to leave it alone it's not as loud not as bad everything else is good