84 gl1200a digital to analog tach swap

[Kt2448]

Hi everyone, im Kyle from western Massachusetts. I'm 30yo and I have an 84 gl1200 aspencade that I currently have 95% disassembled. A little background on the bike. I picked it up from a good family friend not running, and it ran great after replacing the stator. 2 weeks later the gmc yukon pulled out in front of me and I got lucky but busted up a bit. After healing myself and a bit of work and some salvaged front end parts, it was back up and riding great again without the fairing (because it was junk from the accident) or any digital gauges. So to get to the point, the pulse generator went, and it's in the back of the motor so that's why I have it all apart now. A couple things I'm wondering, I am replacing all the digital gauges with analog ones and have a cluster from either an 1100 or 1200 standard (not sure which but i do know that it's from a wing). How do i replace the digital tach with a cable driven analog one on the motor side? (don't need a tach but want one), and what should I replace on the engine while I have it out? This is the second time I've had the motor out and im not trying to have a 3rd. Also, i now have a giant mess of now unused wires under the shelter, and am debating rewiring the whole bike because this mess of wires is absolutely aggrevating. If i were to rewire the bike, are there any aftermarket (or something of the sort) diagrams I can use, or is a complete rewiring opening up a sh*t storm that I wouldn't want to even deal with? Any knowledge and suggestions shared are greatly appreciated.

[brianinpa]

If your tach has a threaded stub on the back of it, you have an 1100 tach. If it only has wires sticking out of it, you have a 1200 electronic tach. They are hard to find as the 1200 Standard was the only Goldwing that had them.

Switching a bike from an electronic tach back to an analog tach would a problem as you would need the drive output from the motor. On the 1000/1100, this output was the fuel pump which mounted to the back side of the right side head and was driven off of the cam shaft. The 1200 cam shaft does not have this.

[Kt2448]

It does have a threaded stub on the back, my issue is where do I put the cable on the motor?

[brianinpa]

There is no place on the 1200 motor as the mechanical fuel pump does not exist and the cam shaft does not have the drive gear for one.

[Kt2448]

Thanks for the info, I appreciate it. Is there anything on the motor that would be a good idea to replace while I have it out?

[ahobbs2]

For your gauges, how about trying a set off a early 80s vf 700/750 magna, (no fuel gauge though)or a 90s nighthawk 750 (no temp gauge). the key switch may be a issue with the mounting.
I put the analog set from a interstate on my aspy and only had to install a small air gauge separate.

[brianinpa]

Does your starter clutch slip when it's cold out and you try to start it? If it does, you may want to think about pulling the rear case and changing the springs and rollers. Not one of those things that must be done, but while the motor is out, it's accessible. What does the clutch slave cylinder look like? It's a lot easier to get to it to rebuild it while the motor is out. I usually look real close at the seals on the rear case and replace any that show signs of leaking as well.

[Kt2448]

Oh the slave cylinder is toast. I've been having clutch disengagement issues and I already rebuilt the master cylinder so the slave cylinder is next. Its never had an issue starting up. The bike only has 40k on it and the only thing that I don't really like is that it let's off a puff of smoke every time I start it, not a real huge or thick cloud, just a quick puff. Nothing has leaked from the engine, I haven't had any puddles at least so the seals were never a thought, but I'll check them out now. Would you happen to know anybody that has that stupid plastic plate on top of the carb that the air filter housing sits on? I have one screw for the whole housing because the inserts are stripped out of that plate and I can find just that anywhere..any help with that would clear a major headache that I have.

[thrasherg]

The puff of smoke when starting is common to all wings and is worse if you park the bike on its side stand!! all the oil runs to the left side of the engine and sits in the left rocker/valve cover area and slowly seeps past the valve stem seals into the combustion chamber over a period of 12 hours or so. Then when you start the engine it gets burnt off causing the puff of smoke, it is completely normal. If you park your bike on its center stand, less oil rests in the valve/cam area so it will often stop smoking or greatly reduce the amount of smoke. Its not doing any real harm to the engine, just a downside to a flat opposed engine when you start it!!

Gary

[DaveO430]

The puff of smoke when starting is common to all wings and is worse if you park the bike on its side stand!! all the oil runs to the left side of the engine and sits in the left rocker/valve cover area and slowly seeps past the valve stem seals into the combustion chamber over a period of 12 hours or so. Then when you start the engine it gets burnt off causing the puff of smoke, it is completely normal. If you park your bike on its center stand, less oil rests in the valve/cam area so it will often stop smoking or greatly reduce the amount of smoke. Its not doing any real harm to the engine, just a downside to a flat opposed engine when you start it!!

Gary

No way there is enough oil in the valve cover to get through the valve seals, besides it would have to run uphill. It seeps past the rings. If you sit on the bike and lean it slightly to the right for a minute after you shut it off it won't smoke.

[thrasherg]

I stand corrected, I was thinking it got past the valves, but you are completely correct it seeps past the rings on the lower cylinders (the left hand cylinders when on the side stand) into the combustion chamber!! Guess my brain wasn’t in gear!
It’s still less of an issue if the bike is parked on its center stand!

Gary

[brianinpa]

Oh the slave cylinder is toast. I've been having clutch disengagement issues and I already rebuilt the master cylinder so the slave cylinder is next. Its never had an issue starting up. The bike only has 40k on it and the only thing that I don't really like is that it let's off a puff of smoke every time I start it, not a real huge or thick cloud, just a quick puff. Nothing has leaked from the engine, I haven't had any puddles at least so the seals were never a thought, but I'll check them out now. Would you happen to know anybody that has that stupid plastic plate on top of the carb that the air filter housing sits on? I have one screw for the whole housing because the inserts are stripped out of that plate and I can find just that anywhere..any help with that would clear a major headache that I have.

So the inserts that hold the air box to the carb are stripped? I think I have one of those plastic carb tops laying around, but I am pretty sure at least one of them is also stripped. What I did, was drill the insert out completely and just used a lock nut on a longer bolt to hold the airbox to that top plate.

[Kt2448]

Oh the slave cylinder is toast. I've been having clutch disengagement issues and I already rebuilt the master cylinder so the slave cylinder is next. Its never had an issue starting up. The bike only has 40k on it and the only thing that I don't really like is that it let's off a puff of smoke every time I start it, not a real huge or thick cloud, just a quick puff. Nothing has leaked from the engine, I haven't had any puddles at least so the seals were never a thought, but I'll check them out now. Would you happen to know anybody that has that stupid plastic plate on top of the carb that the air filter housing sits on? I have one screw for the whole housing because the inserts are stripped out of that plate and I can find just that anywhere..any help with that would clear a major headache that I have.

So the inserts that hold the air box to the carb are stripped? I think I have one of those plastic carb tops laying around, but I am pretty sure at least one of them is also stripped. What I did, was drill the insert out completely and just used a lock nut on a longer bolt to hold the airbox to that top plate.

Yeah, the inserts are. I was thinking about drilling them out and fashioning up studs instead, but if you have that too plate with only one stripped out I'd be willing to purchase it from you.

[brianinpa]

I'm looking for it...

[ahobbs2]

About the carb plenum stripped nuts: i took a sheet of 1/8" aluminum and cut it to fit the plenum and replaced the plastic part.