Project: 1984 Aspencade (GL1200) Revival


Information and questions on GL1200 Goldwings (1984-1987)
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crazyrossfamily
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Re: Project: 1984 Aspencade (GL1200) Revival

Post by crazyrossfamily » Sun Feb 11, 2018 2:48 pm



Hey New Jersey!

Good luck on your bike. I did the same thing last year on an 85 GL1200I I got from a guy off Craigslist in Asbury Park. I am rebuilding the rear shocks now, and will have the front forks upgraded to Progressives by spring, which hopefully will be the last thing I have to do to her in a while. I think she's a Sandy survivor, just due to the sheer amount of sand I dug out of her fairings when I got her. I did go through the carbs, changed the timing belts, tires, wheel bearings, swing arm bearings, flushed all of the fluids, upgraded the coolant fan switch - Geo metro swap- and had to do a lot of wiring in order to make her a reliable machine.

If I can be of assistance, let me know, otherwise, we're in Barnegat if you ever want to go for a ride when you get here back on the road.



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WingAdmin
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Re: Project: 1984 Aspencade (GL1200) Revival

Post by WingAdmin » Mon Feb 12, 2018 11:44 am

I think it's a tribute to these bikes that the front end can be in such dire condition as yours...and yet they still ride. :)

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Afraziaaaa
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Re: Project: 1984 Aspencade (GL1200) Revival

Post by Afraziaaaa » Mon Feb 12, 2018 12:03 pm

WingAdmin wrote:
Mon Feb 12, 2018 11:44 am
I think it's a tribute to these bikes that the front end can be in such dire condition as yours...and yet they still ride. :)
You know, I had this thought myself. Aside from the tank-slapper, I thought it was a very good handling bike even in it's condition. I am excited to ride it again after it has been rebuilt.

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Afraziaaaa
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Re: Project: 1984 Aspencade (GL1200) Revival

Post by Afraziaaaa » Mon Feb 12, 2018 12:05 pm

crazyrossfamily wrote:
Sun Feb 11, 2018 2:48 pm
Hey New Jersey!

Good luck on your bike. I did the same thing last year on an 85 GL1200I I got from a guy off Craigslist in Asbury Park. I am rebuilding the rear shocks now, and will have the front forks upgraded to Progressives by spring, which hopefully will be the last thing I have to do to her in a while. I think she's a Sandy survivor, just due to the sheer amount of sand I dug out of her fairings when I got her. I did go through the carbs, changed the timing belts, tires, wheel bearings, swing arm bearings, flushed all of the fluids, upgraded the coolant fan switch - Geo metro swap- and had to do a lot of wiring in order to make her a reliable machine.

If I can be of assistance, let me know, otherwise, we're in Barnegat if you ever want to go for a ride when you get here back on the road.
Great! I am on the other side of Jersey, in Frenchtown.

Any recommendations about the carbs? I'm certain mine are almost completely clogged. I've heard/read that a very thin wire is necessary to clear the needle jet?

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Re: Project: 1984 Aspencade (GL1200) Revival

Post by crazyrossfamily » Mon Feb 12, 2018 12:39 pm

I recommend you read the following article and other articles you can find on his site - it really helped me when I did my carbs (I found this article the 2nd time I had to go into my carbs, wish I had found it the first time!)

http://www.motorcycleproject.com/text/c ... iques.html

I don't recommend using any kind of wires to clean the jets on these carbs - they're touchy enough - taking the chance of scratching or widening the orifice isn't worth the headache. If you have access to an ultra-sonic cleaner, use it, otherwise a nice long carb cleaner bath AFTER the carbs are disassembled should do the trick. You have two jets to worry about, one is pressed in, and the other is threaded. Remove the threaded one and the fuel strainer prior to soaking in solvent. I didn't have to remove the pressed in jet, and recommend you don't mess with it unless you absolutely have to... I have a float tool and a set of synch gauges, if you need them, hit me up when your ready.

Incidentally, the carbs will come off of the bike pretty easily with the engine installed, I would recommend doing them that way to eliminate the carbs from your knocking issue...

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Afraziaaaa
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Re: Project: 1984 Aspencade (GL1200) Revival

Post by Afraziaaaa » Mon Feb 12, 2018 2:44 pm

crazyrossfamily wrote:
Mon Feb 12, 2018 12:39 pm
I recommend you read the following article and other articles you can find on his site - it really helped me when I did my carbs (I found this article the 2nd time I had to go into my carbs, wish I had found it the first time!)

http://www.motorcycleproject.com/text/c ... iques.html

I don't recommend using any kind of wires to clean the jets on these carbs - they're touchy enough - taking the chance of scratching or widening the orifice isn't worth the headache. If you have access to an ultra-sonic cleaner, use it, otherwise a nice long carb cleaner bath AFTER the carbs are disassembled should do the trick. You have two jets to worry about, one is pressed in, and the other is threaded. Remove the threaded one and the fuel strainer prior to soaking in solvent. I didn't have to remove the pressed in jet, and recommend you don't mess with it unless you absolutely have to... I have a float tool and a set of synch gauges, if you need them, hit me up when your ready.

Incidentally, the carbs will come off of the bike pretty easily with the engine installed, I would recommend doing them that way to eliminate the carbs from your knocking issue...
Noted. I've got the GUNK cleaner in a gallon can (new stuff, not MEK) so I will see how it does. I've done CV/harley carbs before which are pretty easy, but this will be my first go at these.

Float tool...you mean the pin removal tool?

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Re: Project: 1984 Aspencade (GL1200) Revival

Post by crazyrossfamily » Mon Feb 12, 2018 7:31 pm

Afraziaaaa wrote:
Mon Feb 12, 2018 2:44 pm

Float tool...you mean the pin removal tool?
No, the float level tool. You probably won't have any problem getting the pins out but you will want to use it to set your float heights - IMHO - one of the most important settings in the procedure.

https://www.partsgiant.com/p355543-bike ... gL8k_D_BwE

I used the gunk stuff too. I found that when you are done soaking, wash the carbs with soap and water, and then spray out every orifice you can with a can of carb cleaner, and then HP air will help to get as much of the gunk out as possible.

The slides are pretty sturdy and probably won't need replacement unless they have a hole in them, but if you notice scoring on the slides, then a good treatment with 1500-2000 grit sand paper will help throttle response. Be careful putting the carburetor slide covers into the solvent, it'll strip the clear coat right off.

Also, don't forget to pull off the aluminum covers from the idle set screws and pull them before soaking otherwise you'll destroy the orings and never get your idle right. The manual will tell you how many turns to set them statically before you do the idle drop setting.

As for the carb parts, you can't go wrong with Randakks carb kit. has everything you'll need, including the air-cut valve.

https://www.randakks.com/randakks-own-g ... l-kit.html

I know, too much info... It all just came flooding back to me... my bad...

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Afraziaaaa
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Re: Project: 1984 Aspencade (GL1200) Revival

Post by Afraziaaaa » Tue Feb 13, 2018 9:09 am

Great, thanks for the tips. I will certainly refer back to them. I do have the randakk carb kit.

I imagine that single carburetors are much easier to modify and tune. I wouldn't want to change any orifices on this type of setup.

I'm having a fun time getting the new lower steering race into the neck. I've tried a torch on the neck. Tonight I will try a combo of freezing the race for an hour or so, as well as the torch.

crazyrossfamily
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Re: Project: 1984 Aspencade (GL1200) Revival

Post by crazyrossfamily » Tue Feb 13, 2018 11:26 am

Afraziaaaa wrote:
Tue Feb 13, 2018 9:09 am
I'm having a fun time getting the new lower steering race into the neck. I've tried a torch on the neck. Tonight I will try a combo of freezing the race for an hour or so, as well as the torch.
Good luck! They can be a bear! Freezing it overnight should work... I have found that freezing and using the torch can be counter-productive though, as the superheated frame heats the race up too quickly for it to get set. Best of luck!

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Afraziaaaa
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Re: Project: 1984 Aspencade (GL1200) Revival

Post by Afraziaaaa » Tue Feb 13, 2018 1:57 pm

So I ordered some gaskets/hoses and other stuff from a Honda dealer and got some bad news. Part number 11394-MG9-306, RR Case Gasket has been discontinued!

Does anyone know of a decent source for a rear case gasket for '85GL1200? I see the saber cycle one, but I hear a lot of negative reviews about that company.

I also found this one from Old Bike Barn, which has a pretty good reputation for the smaller japanese bikes, but they are not really a wing oriented company.

https://www.oldbikebarn.com/parts-by-mo ... asket.html

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julimike54
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Re: Project: 1984 Aspencade (GL1200) Revival

Post by julimike54 » Tue Feb 13, 2018 5:04 pm

Not sure who you're dealing with, but Western Honda, Bike Bandit and Partzilla all show it's available.............
Also the search for that part number had several ebay vendors, with pictures of Honda packaged parts!
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Afraziaaaa
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Re: Project: 1984 Aspencade (GL1200) Revival

Post by Afraziaaaa » Tue Feb 13, 2018 5:39 pm

julimike54 wrote:
Tue Feb 13, 2018 5:04 pm
Not sure who you're dealing with, but Western Honda, Bike Bandit and Partzilla all show it's available.............
Also the search for that part number had several ebay vendors, with pictures of Honda packaged parts!
Cool, thanks. I usually use Ronnie’s OEM which also showed it as available. They typically don’t stock the part though and they can’t get it anymore. I’ll check ebay.

Also, new to me and in much better condition:


The lowers are a -771 part while the original lowers from the bike are a -772. Not sure what the difference is but it probably doesn’t matter because my original lowers are usable.

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Afraziaaaa
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Re: Project: 1984 Aspencade (GL1200) Revival

Post by Afraziaaaa » Tue Feb 13, 2018 8:01 pm

Steering stem upper bearing is definitely bad. It has spots that feel like they are catching.

Still don’t have the lower race in but it’s closer. There’s a how to on the forum that says it should go in easily. I must be an idiot.

Pulled the front trans cover and found this delicious sludge. The water pump is definitely binding.

Trying to pull the lower steering bearing using a purpose built tool (not a Honda tool) and first I pulled the outer bearing off, followed by breaking the inner race. I’m amazed. The manual says to use a drift...









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Afraziaaaa
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Re: Project: 1984 Aspencade (GL1200) Revival

Post by Afraziaaaa » Fri Feb 16, 2018 12:21 pm

Finally got the steering races in. Froze the lower for a day and heated the neck, then used my new motion pro race driver - $45 and fits GL1100, GL1200 and I believe up to 95 GL1500. Along with my trusty 45oz dead blow and the race was in the neck in less than 2 min.

Got the lower bearing off the neck with a cutoff wheel and a chisel.

Cleaned up the front tranny cover in about 3 hours and the new water pump is ready to go in. Quite a job this water pump. Turning the old one by hand feels similar to a stepper motor. The new one doesn’t turn so easily but is nice and smooth.









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Afraziaaaa
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Re: Project: 1984 Aspencade (GL1200) Revival

Post by Afraziaaaa » Sun Feb 18, 2018 5:18 pm

Old fork tubes were good for something. I used one along with an old inner lower bearing to drive the new lower steering bearing onto the stem.

Pulling apart the “new” forks, I assume they are unmolested because they are ‘84 and still have the plastic spacer in them. Almost have one back together but need to work out a bushing and seal driver. 1.5” pvc works fine on 39mm tubes but does not fit the 41mm that came on the gl1200.

Put the front trans cover back together, seals not leaking. Had one pinched o-ring in one of the coolant channels on the bike and it shows because there is caked-on coolant residue that I had to clean out of the o-ring groove.

Cleaned oil seal prior to pulling it from the pump and found a couple chips out of the seal housing. I think it’s fine to run as is because the seal sits down inside the channel and these chips are out of the edge.





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Afraziaaaa
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Re: Project: 1984 Aspencade (GL1200) Revival

Post by Afraziaaaa » Mon Feb 19, 2018 8:16 am

I wanted to edit the previous post, but I couldn't find the button. Maybe it is too late.

Anyway, after giving it some thought, I think maybe that oil pump front cover does need to be replaced. The oil seal may be fine, but the part that is chipped in two places holds an o-ring! I was so focused on the oil seal, that I overlooked that aspect of this part.

Maybe that is why the oil was so creamy in that spot when I pulled the front trans cover...? Any thoughts on that?

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julimike54
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Re: Project: 1984 Aspencade (GL1200) Revival

Post by julimike54 » Mon Feb 19, 2018 9:59 am

The 2 "drivers" I use for the bushing and seal is; bushing, 1.5" pvc with a circ. saw blade width, cut out length wise. Spread pipe to fit tube and drive bushing into place; seal, use a 1.25" pvc coupling (next to seal) and a length of 2" pipe for driver.

The "cream" you have would indicate coolant or oil leaking there somewhere in that area. Generally if I have something apart on the bike and there is a piece of rubber in the area, I change the rubber if I can. Don't want to take it apart again, most have been replaced now at 32 years old.
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Afraziaaaa
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Re: Project: 1984 Aspencade (GL1200) Revival

Post by Afraziaaaa » Mon Feb 19, 2018 12:25 pm

julimike54 wrote:
Mon Feb 19, 2018 9:59 am
The 2 "drivers" I use for the bushing and seal is; bushing, 1.5" pvc with a circ. saw blade width, cut out length wise. Spread pipe to fit tube and drive bushing into place; seal, use a 1.25" pvc coupling (next to seal) and a length of 2" pipe for driver.

The "cream" you have would indicate coolant or oil leaking there somewhere in that area. Generally if I have something apart on the bike and there is a piece of rubber in the area, I change the rubber if I can. Don't want to take it apart again, most have been replaced now at 32 years old.
Good stuff, thanks. The water pump was definitely bad, so maybe the o-ring groove being cracked did or didn't contribute. Either way, I will definitely replace the oil pump front cover. Might as well while I am in there. It's only a few more bolts/screws and a few bucks. The bad water pump was the newer metal impeller style, so the job had been done once before.

I also read in the manual that the fork oil drain bolt at the bottom actually DOES require a thread sealant and that the sealant I found on mine was supposed to be there...not just a band-aid type fix for a bad slider or worn gasket. The shop manual calls out loctite lock n seal, but I only have the 243 blue liquid threadlocker right now. If I can not find lock n seal locally, I think I might try to go with permatex high temp thread sealant as I think it is more readily available.

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Re: Project: 1984 Aspencade (GL1200) Revival

Post by Rednaxs60 » Mon Feb 19, 2018 1:11 pm

Afraziaaaa wrote:
Mon Feb 19, 2018 12:25 pm
I also read in the manual that the fork oil drain bolt at the bottom actually DOES require a thread sealant and that the sealant I found on mine was supposed to be there...not just a band-aid type fix for a bad slider or worn gasket. The shop manual calls out loctite lock n seal, but I only have the 243 blue liquid threadlocker right now. If I can not find lock n seal locally, I think I might try to go with permatex high temp thread sealant as I think it is more readily available.
Oops - checked the OEM manual - you're correct - missed this when I installed the bolts on mine. Will monitor and if it leaks, will go back in to fix. I didn't notice any thread sealant on mine when I took the forks apart. There is a crush washer on the bolt so I'm thinking/hoping that there would be no need for sealant, much like an oil or water drain bolt.

Cheers
"When you write the story of your life, don't let anyone else hold the pen"

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Afraziaaaa
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Re: Project: 1984 Aspencade (GL1200) Revival

Post by Afraziaaaa » Mon Feb 19, 2018 2:13 pm

Rednaxs60 wrote:
Mon Feb 19, 2018 1:11 pm
Afraziaaaa wrote:
Mon Feb 19, 2018 12:25 pm
I also read in the manual that the fork oil drain bolt at the bottom actually DOES require a thread sealant and that the sealant I found on mine was supposed to be there...not just a band-aid type fix for a bad slider or worn gasket. The shop manual calls out loctite lock n seal, but I only have the 243 blue liquid threadlocker right now. If I can not find lock n seal locally, I think I might try to go with permatex high temp thread sealant as I think it is more readily available.
Oops - checked the OEM manual - you're correct - missed this when I installed the bolts on mine. Will monitor and if it leaks, will go back in to fix. I didn't notice any thread sealant on mine when I took the forks apart. There is a crush washer on the bolt so I'm thinking/hoping that there would be no need for sealant, much like an oil or water drain bolt.

Cheers
I had the same thought. I have done Harley forks before which only use a crush washer, no sealant. The sealant was foreign to me. Interested in how you make out!

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Rednaxs60
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Re: Project: 1984 Aspencade (GL1200) Revival

Post by Rednaxs60 » Mon Feb 19, 2018 7:58 pm

No leaks so far and I did the oil change and fork refurbish in November last.
"When you write the story of your life, don't let anyone else hold the pen"

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Afraziaaaa
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Re: Project: 1984 Aspencade (GL1200) Revival

Post by Afraziaaaa » Tue Feb 20, 2018 8:35 am

Rednaxs60 wrote:
Mon Feb 19, 2018 7:58 pm
No leaks so far and I did the oil change and fork refurbish in November last.
Ridden much since then?

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Rednaxs60
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Re: Project: 1984 Aspencade (GL1200) Revival

Post by Rednaxs60 » Tue Feb 20, 2018 10:32 am

Afraziaaaa wrote:
Tue Feb 20, 2018 8:35 am
Rednaxs60 wrote:
Mon Feb 19, 2018 7:58 pm
No leaks so far and I did the oil change and fork refurbish in November last.
Ridden much since then?
2000 Kms since.
"When you write the story of your life, don't let anyone else hold the pen"

Ernest

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julimike54
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Re: Project: 1984 Aspencade (GL1200) Revival

Post by julimike54 » Tue Feb 20, 2018 11:02 am

Maybe the idea is like 'belt and suspenders', they want no chance. Mine had the thread lock, I put more on mine after cleaning old out of threads, etc.
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Afraziaaaa
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Re: Project: 1984 Aspencade (GL1200) Revival

Post by Afraziaaaa » Tue Feb 20, 2018 11:06 am

Rednaxs60 wrote:
Tue Feb 20, 2018 10:32 am
Afraziaaaa wrote:
Tue Feb 20, 2018 8:35 am
Rednaxs60 wrote:
Mon Feb 19, 2018 7:58 pm
No leaks so far and I did the oil change and fork refurbish in November last.
Ridden much since then?
2000 Kms since.
Seems reasonable enough to have vibrated loose by now if it were going to happen.
julimike54 wrote:
Tue Feb 20, 2018 11:02 am
Maybe the idea is like 'belt and suspenders', they want no chance. Mine had the thread lock, I put more on mine after cleaning old out of threads, etc.
Good point. The Japanese do have a knack for detail.



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