Alternator conversion question

[Phunnybone]

I did the duplitech alternator conversion quite a while back but didn't quite finish as life got in the way. In the meantime, I lost the instructions. My question is: with an alternator conversion, do I clip and cap off the three yellow stator wires near the battery?

[Rednaxs60]

You have to isolate the RR and the stator wiring from the electrical system. Best bet would be to disconnect the RR in its entirety and cap off the wires at the RR location. Make sure the connectors if still in use are uncoupled.

[Phunnybone]

So basically I'm removing the RR entirely? Does everything run off a battery connection or should I hook everything into the distribution plate (added to take care of all the extra lights on this bike).

[Rednaxs60]

I have a different perspective regarding the electrics on our bikes. My thoughts are based on an extensive search into the design of the electrical system and best practices, mostly from the auto restoration industry, for electrical system changes. Not everyone agrees, but the world would be boring if everyone did.

Yes, I would remove the RR and all associated wiring from the wiring loom. Remove the red/white wire(s), and the wires from the junction to the starter. Leave the green wire(s), it may come in handy as an additional ground for another electrical device, or not.

Next I would install a bus bar in the location where the RR was. I would hook the alternator output and sense wire (if the alternator requires) to this new positive bus bar. Use 8 GA wire for the alternator output. I would connect a single 10/12 GA wire from this bus to the starter solenoid - you will now have only three wires connected to the starter solenoid, adequate size for current flow to the 30 amp circuit, and for starting and topping up the battery. Connect the red ignition wire to this new bus bar as well with an in-line 30 amp fuse.

Associated items that can be connected to this new bus bar are the battery tender, and any additional power requirements that you need. I have my auxiliary fuse block attached here as well. A good spot for an auxiliary fuse block is in the trunk, this is where I have mine located.

This will also ensure that the dash voltmeter accurately displays the electrical system voltage. If you connect the alternator output to the starter solenoid battery terminal, not the battery positive terminal, the dash voltmeter will display an electrical system voltage of approximately 0.5 VDC less than actual - 13.5/6 instead of 14.1 VDC. Not a big issue but why make a change that you now have to make compromises for.

The distribution plate you mention can be connected to this new positive bus bar as well with an in-line fuse to the distribution plate.

For the ground requirements, I would install a small ground bus under the seat and connect it to the battery negative with an 8 GA wire. This new ground bus bar allows for hooking up additional grounds without overloading the battery negative terminal or trying to tap into existing OEM ground wires. Keeps the wiring at the battery to a minimum.

Do not remove the existing sense wire, but keep it available as a 12 VDC switching wire for any relays you may install.

If you wire as above, you are keeping with the design intent from the OEM, and it works well. This is how my bike's electrical system is configured.

Hope this helps and makes sense.

Cheers

[AZgl1800]

Ernest,

I did the same on my current '02 bike.
It really makes the wiring harness neat, and as you said, precludes messing up the battery terminals.

[Rednaxs60]

I have to take the shelter off my bike this week for another reason. Will take pics and post.

[Phunnybone]

I have to take the shelter off my bike this week for another reason. Will take pics and post.

Thanx

[Rednaxs60]

Pictures as promised.

First one is the ground bus bar I have installed under the seat. All new grounds and some older ones go to this bus. I have it connected to the battery negative post with an 8 GA wire. Arrow indicates bus bar:

Lots of connections for expansion. You can use a smaller bus bar and change location to suit your application. If I run out of single connections, I will double up as needed. Using the yachting philosophy by ABYC, max of 4 connectors per.

The positive bus bar is located where the RR used to be. I have the alternator connected to the bus bar with an 8 GA wire. This bus bar replaces the junction that was in the OEM wire harness, but in fact is more effective/efficient as all loads are sensed at this junction, and power is distributed as required. Here are the pictures:

Positive bus bar location. The protective cover has a tie wrap to keep protective cover on.

Another view

These two pictures show the bus bar with protective cover removed. The wires have wire numbers to indicate what each is for:

Cheers

[boonny]

Thanks for posting the pictures. I have a possibly stupid question, I see that you have e few circuits running off the positive bus, but I don't see any fuses. Do you have one main fuse for the bus or are you hiding them or am I blind?

[Rednaxs60]

The positive bus bar is connected the same as the original design.

I have a couple of mods for the bike that I did a while back. The first one I did was a coil mod where I ran a dedicated circuit just for the coils. It is from the new aux fuse block. I use the original coil wire(s) that are from the engine stop switch as 12 VDC switch wires for relays.

There is one wire off the bus bar for the aux fuse block that provides power to the aux fuse block through a 30/40 amp switched relay. I use the wire that used to power the coils as the 12 VDC switch wire. Everything off the aux fuse block is fused.

The sense wire is a direct feed into the alternator - no fuse. Have been thinking a 2 to 5 amp fuse may be good for this circuit. This is a switched circuit through a 20 amp relay so that power to the alternator through this wire is only there when the engine is started and operating.

The ignition wire has no fuse as of yet, the same as per the original design. Will be installing a 30 amp in-line fuse - determining the position for this fuse so it can be readily accessed is not easy. Once this is done there should be no need for an in-line fuse from the alternator to the bus bar.

The battery tender/aux circuit has a 10 amp in-line fuse.

The wire going to the starter solenoid is fused at the starter solenoid.

Have a 30/40 amp relay for the horns - installed FIAMMS Freeway Blasters - power to the horns is from the aux fuse block - 10 amps.

Have a relay for the side stand safety switch as well.

Thinking that I should put the rad fan on a relay and power it through the aux fuse block - take another large load off the old ignition switch circuit.

Hope this makes sense.

Cheers

[boonny]

Yep makes sense. When I first seen the last picture with all the wires hanging off of it, I thought what the......is he doing . Should have known better.