What should I watch out for?

[dstaff]

Hi all
I bought a low (VERY low) mileage (19,370 miles) ‘85 GL-1200L last fall. Unfortunately by the time I took delivery it was too cold to ride, so I didn’t have a chance to get it safetied and plated. So now that it’s warming up I’m starting to seriously itch to ride. My concern is the low mileage and the long time it sat unriden. I’m just the third owner and the person I bought it from put just over 300 miles on it in 7 years. (The bike was too tall for him and he couldn’t ride it)

What should I be worried about because it sat so long?
I have already replaced the battery. Bought electronic contact cleaner for all the handlebar switches because they stick. I’m worried about the tires. They only have 300 miles one them, But they are now 8 years old.

What about the cam timing belts?
Fortunately the gas tank is almost empty, but I have no idea how old the gas is. When I bought it it started right up on it. So I am hoping just a full tank of premium and some seafoam will fix that. Also she’s idling a bit fast around 1900 rpm even after warming up. Could that be the gas or maybe dirty injectors?

Oh and an oil change is the next job.

Anything else I should check before hitting the open road.

Thanks,
Dean.

[ekvh]

If you don’t know the age of the belts, change them. Belts that sit for long periods take a set and the sharp bends around the crank and can pulleys will degrade. Belt snaps, valves bend.

[Wilcoy02]

I would not ride on tires 8 yrs old even if they were bought off the shelf.
8yr old tires with a bike sitting on them would be worse.

Just depends on how much your life is worth.

[DaveO430]

I have to ask why on the premium gas, it does nothing of benefit but the seafoam or injector cleaner is a good idea. Definitely change the tires and timing belts, brake and clutch fluid, coolant, final drive oil, fuel filter and probably fork oil too. The high idle could be the air valve stuck open or maybe it just needs the throttles synched &/or the idle stp screw adjusted. You really need a manual if you don't already have one.

[dstaff]

Thanks everyone who has responded so far.
I was seriously considering replacing the tires anyway, they are after all the only thing between me and the road. And I don’t like taking that kind of risk.

I’m going to have a mechanic give the bike a good once over when I get it Safety checked. So I’ll have them check the belts.

As for premium gas, it’s my understanding that the ethanol in lower grades are harmful to the rubber hoses and gaskets on older bikes. Mind you that mY apply more to bikes with carbs than EFI.

As for a manual I have picked up a Clymers Manual for it. So eventually I’ll be doing most of the maintenance and repairs myself.

Cheers
Dean

[RoadRogue]

dont just check the timing belts, replace them. a broken belt will bend valves

[cihilb]

dont just check the timing belts, replace them. a broken belt will bend valves

I agree with the timing belts. If the mechanic is actually going to remove the timing belt covers to check the belts, he is halfway to replacing them. Just to check the belts he has to remove the lower fairing and move the radiator out of the way. another half hour and the belts can be changed.
Also, do a complete brake and clutch bleed. When you remove the rear wheel for a tire, make sure to grease the splines and pins on the hub (Moly 60 grease).
Oil change, do it twice within a short mileage period. A lot of gunk is laying in the bottom of the engine from sitting. New filter both times.
Flush and refill coolant.
When you use the seafoam, Use about 1/2 can for the first two tanks. No need to use premium gas. I think all gas now is E-10. Won't hurt anything to use it. Lot's of 1200's still out there using it.

[Rednaxs60]

Welcome and congrats on the '85 LTD. have two of them, one here in Victoria is my daily ride and touring bike. My second one is in northern Ontario at my Brother's place, a small town called Larder Lake - 230 Kms north of North Bay. Will be coming home in May to finish putting it back on the road to bring out here to Victoria. Need a second for when work/maintenance is being done.

Having put two of these on the road, recommend the following:

1. New fuel filter - alternatives are: Hastings GF159/Beck Arnley 043-0897/Fram G3969/NAPA 3556/WIX 33556
2. Timing belts a definite to be changed - can't tell condition from looking at them: Gates T070 or Dayco 95070 (least expensive)
3. Change all fluids - brake, clutch and coolant - recommend installing speed bleeders on the brake calipers and clutch slave - makes changing fluids an easy one person job - Twisted Throttle out of Toronto has these.
4. Tires from Fortnine - Shinko Tourmasters are the least expensive - putting a set on the bike at my brother's place for the ride back to Victoria - these tires have been reported to have good longevity. Have Michellin Commander II on the bike in Victoria and have over 23,000 KM and not down to the wear bars yet. Use Counter Act Beads or "Ride On" Tire sealant and balancing formula instead of weights. Dynamically balances tires every time you ride and accounts for wear. Prefer the "Ride On" product.
5. Have a look at the stator wiring connections. If there are signs of overheating, replace the connectors with high amperage connector such as the Packard-Delphi Metri-Pack 630 Series - good for up to 46 amps. Many on this forum recommend soldering these wire connections - your choice.
6. Take rear wheel off and ensure you grease the splines with a god moly paste. Loctite LB 8012 is a good product - minimum 60% moly content.
7. Take the calipers off and ensure the sleeve pin is free to move. This pin allows the caliper to float and self-align giving even wear on the brake pads - prevents squealing as well. Careful when replacing the brake pads. You will probably have to use a hammer and drive the brake pad retaining pins out. If you damage the pin(s) on the front left caliper - has longer pins than the right front and rear calipers - there are no replacements. Pins for the right front and rear calipers are still available. Would recommend taking the calipers off and service - new pads if required.

Using premium gas is giving the government more money, not necessary. If concerned about the rubber hoses, replace with new. Been riding mine for 2 1/2 years and no issues. These FI bikes are very forgiving. Only use premium if you get pre-ignition, when the riding temps are extremely hot - shouldn't be a problem in Ontario.

High idle can be a few things. The throttle plates should be cleaned by spraying carb cleaner in through the air intake plenum. Next is to balance the right and left cylinder banks. Cannot balance front/rear cylinders on a side because of the FI. Then set the idle. Idle and cylinder bank balancing will be done at the same time because as you adjust the idle affects the balance, and vice versa.

Depending on how long you intend to keep the bike, you can consider replacing the rubber brake and clutch hydraulic lines with SS lines, good investment.

Wheel and steering stem bearing replacement should be considered. These are 33 years old and wear out. I consider these a safety issue. When I replaced the steering stem bearings on my '85 here in Victoria, the lower bearing fell apart. Steering didn't feel bad before hand, but when being replaced the true condition was apparent.

Lots of other items but this and the other posts will get you going.

You need the manuals. There are three. The OEM service Manual, 1985 Electrical Troubleshooting Manual and the Supplement. See PM.

Hope this helps. Cheers

[Charlie1Horse]

If this bile has an OEM stator, (internal alternator) check the vertical connector in front of the battery that has three yellow wires. This connector was a design problem with the 1200s and because it is not a sealed connector, it gets moisture and then collects dirt. This causes corrosion which causes resistance and eventually heat and will then burn the wiring around it and possibly, like mine, catch on fire. If the terminals in that connector are corroded you should cut the connector out and solder and heat shrink tube the three wires, (by-passing the plug connector). Other than what has been discussed, these are pretty strong bikes. Tires and timing belts=without question after sitting so long.
Russell

Those who say it cannot be done should try not to interrupt those who are doing it.

[dstaff]

WOW I am overwhelmed by the responses. Thank you all so much.

Some very sound advice.
I will be taking it all in. I plan have this bike for a very long time. I’m actually selling a 2014 CTX700N to pay for all the work. ( actually I would be selling it anyway. Don’t have room for all the bikes. There’s 4 in the garage now and no room to work. Something has to give.

I’m very familiar with the stator wire issue. Used to have a 82 CB650C that had the same problem.

I know the previous owner had all the fluids changed when he bought it, but then it sat unused for 7 years, so not surprised it all needs doing again.

Cheers
Dean

[newday777]

Congrats Dean on your purchase, taken care of it should outlast you.
All good responses above.
As to the belts, as said, looking at belts is not a reliable decision. They can look brand new at 40 years old, yet the hardened rubber doesn't show the weakness and likelihood of breakage which is a bad thing on these motors with interference top ends, ie: valves tag the pistons and poof you have big problems. New belts are cheap insurance at $30-$45/a pair with aftermarket belts from gates online.
I had a friend who lost a belt on his wing on a criss country trip years ago (long before forums were ever dreamed of happening, no internet then). A week or more in a motel room in the middle of no-wheresville, towing charges or rental truck to get it home, or riding your trip through? Priceless.
I guess if you like Russian Roulette......
Enjoy the ride.

Blessed Resurrection Day to all.

[dstaff]

Thank You all for the great advice.
The bike goes in to the shop tomorrow. I traded in my 2014 CTX700N for a 2007 Vulcan 500 for my Girlfriend. There is a credit balance so I am using that to get them to do the safety, tires and oil change.

I am then Ordering the timing belts online and will do them myself. This is more to save s little bit of money. The shop is insisting on using Honda belts which are twice as much as aftermarket ones. And shop time is 3.5 hours, so that’s nearly $400 just in labour.

I know it will take me considerably longer to do the work, but I don’t mind getting my hands dirty. Also I do have a couple of mechanic friends how can help guide me for the cost of a beer or two.

As for replacing all the other fluids. I can do that too.

[Rednaxs60]

Check out the DAYCO 95070 belts at a local parts store. Least expensive I've found at just under $14.00 CDN each. Picking up a couple more when I get back home in May.

Doing the timing belts is not too bad. New o-ring for the water pump inlet cover would be good. Honda P/N 91305-426-003 (46X2 mm). Can get an equivalent at your local hydraulic shop for less than 1/2 the Honda price. As long as the o-ring is 2 mm in thickness, the OD can be a close fit.

Good time to change the coolant as well.

Cheers

[dstaff]

Well Pegasus is now in the shop getting new shoes and a safety check...

The garage seems so empty..

Next step.. order the timing belts and change plugs and all other fluids.

[dstaff]

Here’s the latest update.
They bike has new tires and Fresh engine oil. However she failed the safety.
I have leaky fork seals, a sticky throttle and the rear brake pedal won’t return to its resting position when depressed. So now waiting on new seals a new throttle cable (I’m hoping this would explain the fast idle too) and they are hoping just bleeding the rear brakes and replacing the fluid will solve that problem.

Still have to order the timing belts and do that work myself.

Well for a bike that has sat for seven years I think I am getting off easy.

[Wilcoy02]

What tires did you go with?

[dstaff]

What tires did you go with?

I went with the Michelin Commander II's

[Rednaxs60]

Had to change a throttle cable as well. There are two. The one that goes to the throttle linkage was the culprit on my bike. The cable had cut into the inner sheath and was sticking, no amount of oil or lube could make a difference. The shorter cable that goes to the cruise unit was okay.

I would surmise that the front forks have the original springs installed. These get soft after 33 or so years. I would recommend for next winter to put in new springs - Progressive are the easiest. This will change the ride quality and performance. The rear shocks as well. If these have never been upgraded or the internal springs renewed, a new set would be beneficial. Bikes are no different than cars, nothing lasts forever, and the suspension is the only item that is keeping the tires firmly planted on the ground. Your tires will also last longer. I have Race Tech springs and gold valve emulators in the front forks and non-air Progressive shocks on the rear of my bike here in Victoria. Picked up a set of air shocks from a basket case and will rebuild with new Progressive springs and put back on to try the difference.

The bike I have at my brother's place up north in Larder Lake apparently has Progressive springs in the front forks and the rear shocks were apparently rebuilt. Will verify once I get it out here.

The fast idle should be on engine start, then reduce to around 1000 RPM +/- 100 RPM when at operating temp. Your bike should operate at an engine temp of four bars when on the highway or moving through town. The engine will heat up when doing start/stop in town and at traffic lights. Fan should come on when the dash temp gauge shows 6 bars. The engine will cool down to operate at 4 bars quite quickly once moving at speed. Honda reduced the size of the rad on these 1200s so that it is just adequate to provide cooling when moving at highway speeds - Honda calls it a high efficiency rad.

When you do the timing belts, check a local rad shop and see about having the rad cleaned. The rad probably hasn't been cleaned in the last 33 years, and it has been sitting for 7 years.

[julimike54]

The sticking rear brake pedal could need lube on the pedal pivot point.

[Rednaxs60]

Starting to see fibres showing up in the fuel pump inlet screen on my bike. Time to change the fuel lines. Put this on your list for next winter. To get at the fuel lines from the tank, best to drop the exhaust, remove the swing arm as well. Going to do the fuel lines on the bike at my brother's place. Will be posting regarding the final work on it. Doing the work on this bike as inexpensively as possible.

Good time to pack the swing arm bearings with new grease. To take the swing arm left side retaining bolt off use a Park FR6 tool that you can get at a local bicycle shop:

. Cost about $20.00 CDN.

Always something. Cheers

[dstaff]

Hi Ernest.

Thank You once again for all your words of wisdom. I really appreciate everything you have told me.

Cheers
Dean

[WingAdmin]

Starting to see fibres showing up in the fuel pump inlet screen on my bike. Time to change the fuel lines. Put this on your list for next winter. To get at the fuel lines from the tank, best to drop the exhaust, remove the swing arm as well. Going to do the fuel lines on the bike at my brother's place. Will be posting regarding the final work on it. Doing the work on this bike as inexpensively as possible.

Good time to pack the swing arm bearings with new grease. To take the swing arm left side retaining bolt off use a Park FR6 tool that you can get at a local bicycle shop:ParkTool FR-6.PNG. Cost about $20.00 CDN.

Always something. Cheers

$14 on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Freewh ... 491&sr=8-1

[dstaff]

Excellent!!!

Have got to say I am really going to enjoy this forum. And with any luck I will be able to help someone else out in time.

[Rednaxs60]

Amazon.ca $18.87. The .com will always be in USD. We here north of the border take it on the chin when it comes to items. Here's the amazon.ca page: https://www.amazon.ca/Park-Tool-Freewhe ... +BMX+Bikes

Cheers