Pulling carbs but stuck

[filupsd]

I’m pulling the carbs on my 84 1200 and I’m stuck literally. Pulled the bolts and trying to pull out the left side. There is a hose that seems to go from the bottom of the carbs to the engine case under the left rear carb. I can’t get my hands in to get it loose.
I have looked at several videos and it is t in any of the videos.
Any help is appreciated

[filupsd]

Ok let me see about adding photos.
The first one is under the carbs from the back left side. The hose is going into the bottom of the carbs.
Photo two is the back left side of the case in front of the engine guard. The silver piece is normally under the tube that attaches the eft rear carb to the engine.

[julimike54]

Follow the shop manual and you should have success

https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/gall ... e_id=30970

[filupsd]

Thank you for the link. The way I read this is that the tube should just lift off of the crankcase. Maybe there is an o ring holding it in. Am I correct?

[walker70]

Having been through this myself,there are orings on all four tubes and you just have to use a thin flat blade screwdriver and gently pry them up,that is what I did.

[leakyroof58]

When I first got my GW, I knew absolutely
nothing about them. While I've always been
a 'wrencher', and because my local pansy Honda
dealer won't work on bikes over 20 years old, it
was up to me to just dive in and learn....

The tubes just lift up out of the head, but old
o-rings get stuck. Pry up, and they will lift out.
(As far as I know, these PIAs were inspired by our
good-'ol EPA, who thought motorcycles should run
perfectly clean while we still have smoky diesel
buses stinking up our cities. Yeh, good thinking....)

While you got your carb rack out, get a re-build
kit for the 'slow-air cutoff valve' on the underside
of the rack. Helps with backfiring issue if you have
one. Get re-build kits for all carbs, and use OEM only,
unless you actually enjoyed pulling the rack out.
Many non-OEM kits don't have pre-shaped float bowl
gaskets, which makes replacing them a total nightmare.
(I never messed with the float levels or the pilot
screws - if it aint broke, I wont fix it. )

When you put the rack back in, make sure there
is a long vacuum hose going from a port on the
engine (left-front, as I recall) to the port on the
ECU. Mine was not connected, so no vacuum advance
at higher speeds. No wonder it runs so much better now.

With everything I replaced, I don't expect I'll ever
have to pull that carb rack again. If you're gonna
keep this bike, get a good shop manual for it.
Well worth the $25-30 it might cost.

[filupsd]

Thanks I did get the rack out. I just had to have a mother set of eyes to see where it was hanging up. The vacu e looks intact to the left rear. Ordering slow air cutoff rebuild today

[filupsd]

I have the carbs on the bench and have gone through the jets and screens to check and clean. (Rebuild was done 2 years ago) found two of the screens clogged from when a mouse chewed in my air filter. So I cleaned and blew everything out.
Planning to reinstall on Sunday but I ha e a vacuum line I’m not sure was hooked up when I pulled the rack. It is attached to the slow cutoff and another valve on the reed box(?) and goes to the right side of the engine.
Anyone have a vacuum diagram?

The second photo is the vacuum line coming from the triple connection above and I front of the air filter box. It comes down to the left. Does it attach to the left rear air tube from the carb?

[julimike54]

Try this diagram
https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/ ... e_id=30989

[filupsd]

Thank you for the diagram. I did look at it the other day and it just didn't register. I have slowly figured out what happened. The last guy to rebuild the carbs didn't put the tube with the vacuum connection nipple on the correct carb or side. That of course means the slow air cutoff hasn't been attached and the vacuum line from the three way connection above the airbox was hooked to the wrong spot.
I am anticipating that now that I have cleaned the screens, and hooked the vacuum line up correctly I will see a huge difference in performance and mileage.
Now I have to do the same thing to my 75 Olds before my wife gets upset that she hasn't been able to drive it this summer.

[julimike54]

Hope to see a good results post following

[froche]

I pulled the plugs and had plugs made to seal off the holes. Yes they have o rings and i used new ones (as you should) when resealing them. After trying it I realized that all I needed to do was to cut off the arm from the plug and seal with epoxy, then put o ring back on and reinstall. it makes no difference in gas mileage, power, or anything else.

[brianinpa]

It's a lot easier to remove and reinstall without that secondary air system on the bottom of the carb. Plug the holes, re-route the vacuum lines and never look back.