15 minutes then stall

[Davidmahaney70]

Got my first wing. A 1984 gl1200a. When run on highway for about 15 minutes. There seems to be about a 2 volt drop on the voltmeter and she starts running rough and losing speed due to no power. At this point choking will keep her going with some power. If i clutch in she will stall after about 1/2 a minute stumbing. Once stopped she will not start and run. May stumble for few seconds. Wait for about 5 minutes with key off and she good to go again but only for 5 to ten minutes then samething. Any ideas where to start?

[WingAdmin]

Got my first wing. A 1984 gl1200a. When run on highway for about 15 minutes. There seems to be about a 2 volt drop on the voltmeter and she starts running rough and losing speed due to no power. At this point choking will keep her going with some power. If i clutch in she will stall after about 1/2 a minute stumbing. Once stopped she will not start and run. May stumble for few seconds. Wait for about 5 minutes with key off and she good to go again but only for 5 to ten minutes then samething. Any ideas where to start?

Check the master "dogbone" fuse. Don't just look at it, actually take it out. Mine crumbled to dust in my fingers when I removed it, after I started having failures like you describe.

You can replace it with a high-amperage blade fuse pigtail, then you can use standard automotive blade fuses in its place. Do a quick search here, there are lots of threads describing it.

[Davidmahaney70]

Only fuse by battery is a 30amp blade so looks like it was already done. Thanks for the thought

[grand rouge]

Have you checked to see if charging system us operating properly? Just a thought...….before you start machine, what voltage do you read at the battery itself? After you start, what do you read.....at idle and at oh......3000? Again, checking at the battery. What do the numbers say on the dash mount volt meter at the same time you have your volt meter across the battery? When, after 15 minutes voltage indication goes down on the dash meter...what have you got at the battery?


Lots of threads re proper way to check condition of stator..... and RR as well.

The heat and voltage drop and stall...… do you notice too at the left front of the Shelter...where RR is located.....lots of heat? Have you taken the shelter off to check the condition of the wiring at the RR?


Get that machine sorted.......Winter can arrive early on The Rock.

Cheers.

Dallas
(Former BC Canadian now in California)

[filupsd]

I went through the same thing several years ago with an 84 GL12 Standard and an 85 Vf1100. Looked at electrical, Carbs and a couple other things. Turned out to be the fuel pump on both bikes. Both had aftermarket generic fuel pumps on them when I bought them. When the engine would get all warmed up and it was above 90 degrees air temp the pump would quit. once it cooled down it would start right back up.
Not sure if that is your issue but that was my experience. Use a Honda Prelude fuel pump from the same year

[Davidmahaney70]

Put new fuel pump on. Ran her hard for almost an hour with no problems. Thanks for the advice think I got it done

[rrod1393]

Where did you get your fuel pump from? Are the ones I see on ebay for $15 any good? I think I should place mine because the old one has crap in it which keeps clogging my carbs. Is there any way to open up the pump to clean it?
I sprayed carb cleaner in it, turned it over and knocked out a bunch of crud but unless I know for sure it's 100% clean, it's not going back on the bike. Just cleaned them for the third time. I'm putting an old bike back on the road.

[Davidmahaney70]

The one I got was off ebay for 21 dollars. Fit nice. Doesnt have the crome case of the original. The original is a pull apart. There is a post in the forums about quieting a noisy pump. This post explains it. Good luck hope you have great luck

[rrod1393]

Great thanks, I opened up the pump and it was nasty. No way thats going back on the bike. Its a real shame because it was working good. I ordered one from ebay for $16.